Revealing the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what aerated concrete is. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of which a porous structure saturated with gas bubbles is formed inside the material.

Accordingly, the quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, their density and closeness.

Note!
In principle, this is a natural material, which is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special blowing agents.
Most often, their role is played by aluminum powder.

Technologies for the production of aerated concrete are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type of technological process. For example, manufacturers often add lime to the composition of aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

1. All components are mixed in certain proportions.
2. Molding is carried out, where the material begins to expand under the action of a chemical reaction, during which gas formation occurs.
3. After pre-drying, aerated concrete is cut into blocks.
4. Then the finished product must be dried. There are two ways: autoclave and non-autoclave.

Attention!
In the case of using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.

Notice one very important point, which relates to the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one “BUT” here. By increasing the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you purchase more porous blocks, then remember that you should not build multi-story buildings from them.

Now let's move on to the process itself and from the inside.

Do I need to insulate

Partially, we answered the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the house from aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they "breathe" very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand, and a minus.

Attention!
Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be arranged in such a way that the vapor permeability index of the material decreases from the outer surface of the wall to the inner one.
That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete is solved in this way.
If everything works out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, the entire structure of the building as a whole.

To prevent penetration wet vapors in the body of the blocks, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the walls both from the outside and from the inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze several basic thermal insulation materials that are currently most often used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Heaters

Modern market building materials Today it is ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Specialists today prefer such heat insulators as:

1. expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
2. polyurethane foam.

• The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary polystyrene foam (aka polystyrene) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. Moreover, it has no high rates thermal insulation.
  Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation with high thermal insulation performance.

• Polyurethane foam is a unique material. Firstly, it is a building mixture that is applied to the walls under pressure. Secondly, getting on the surface, it is instantly bonded to it, creating a reliable foamed protective layer. Thirdly, such a heater will last for several decades.

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is a slab material that is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But polyurethane foam can not be applied to the treated surfaces on its own.

It requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. Therefore, this method of insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I wanted to say a little about mineral wool. It is one of the most efficient thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the ability to draw in moist air vapor, which is negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already talked about this above).

So, what kind of insulation for aerated concrete walls better, you know, now you can move on to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider the insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam as the most budget option.

Insulation of walls from aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, aerated concrete walls are insulated from the outside and from the inside. Why on both sides?

Remember!
Humidity and condensation are highly dependent on the dew point.
While thermal insulation work has not been carried out, given point located on the surface of the wall.
As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.
A small mistake or improper work can lead to the formation of condensate on the heaters, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, insulation of houses made of aerated concrete is divided into several stages.

Stage #1

This internal insulation aerated concrete walls.

I would like to note that many of us independently carried out the insulation of a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar with the specifics of aerated concrete.

• In principle, aerated concrete blocks are a very flat and smooth surface, which does not make sense to process to an ideal state. But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, tubercles are removed with sandpaper or a sharp spatula.
• After that, the entire surface must be primed to create high adhesion of the wall.. Please note that in some areas of the house, the walls will be adversely affected by moisture.
  So such walls must be treated with waterproofing compounds without fail. And when it all dries up (usually it takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. In this case, it is not necessary to use a thick layer of plaster.
• And the last one is the finish.. The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete.
  If drywall is used as a finish, then the wall must be additionally treated with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage #2

This is the insulation of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here, because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today began to offer plaster solutions that are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and besides, they never crack.

Attention!
There is one very important point.
If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside and vapor-tight from the outside, then the probability that inside the house will be high humidity, is very large.
Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based bonding mortar or special mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using metal products that will begin to rust after a while.

And the last is the finish. What to choose?

In principle, there are many materials, it is better to note that you do not have to choose.

• Vapor proof paints;
• Solutions based on polymers;
• Solutions based on foamed plastics;
• Foam glass.

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all the elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. It's about about the insulation of plastic windows, entrance doors, basement, roofing and so on.

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instruction on how to properly insulate an aerated concrete house with expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is not so complicated. Of course, knowing the nuances of this process will ensure simplicity and reliability, but in any case, everyone can handle such work without problems.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Trying to build a house from modern building materials with, a person naturally strives to save on thermal insulation. Indeed, in theory, the thermal insulation will be carried out by the materials themselves.

For example, the construction of aerated concrete material is now very common. Aerated concrete is considered a porous and fairly durable material from which low-rise houses can be built.

Many people think that insulation is not required for a house made of aerated concrete. But it's not. Moreover, reviews from users of such houses, on the contrary, confirm the fact that aerated concrete walls need insulation. It is about the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete that we will now talk about.

1 Features and purpose

To begin with, let's figure out what this aerated concrete is, and why it is so popular with. Aerated concrete was invented not so long ago, if you look at more ancient materials such as bricks. However, in our area it has been actively used in construction for decades.

Aerated concrete is produced from a binder, fillers, additives from industrial waste and special chemicals.

Powder and aluminum powder are used as chemical additives. They are foam sample converters.

That is, upon contact with water from a powder or powder, it begins to stand out carbon dioxide. At the same time, the binders work to the full, so the block filled with gas becomes cellular and freezes in the same state.

The result is the same aerated concrete. It is relatively light, but at the same time sufficient durable material. From it you can assemble houses that have a height of up to 10 meters.

As a rule, houses up to 3 floors in height are assembled from aerated concrete without any restrictions. Everything above is equipped with reinforcing belts. It is impossible to build high-rise houses from aerated concrete. Also, this material is great for arranging baths, small buildings, etc.

2 The choice of material for insulation

Insulation for aerated concrete also plays a huge role. Can be used different models insulation, but not all of them are well suited for certain tasks.

So, the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete from the outside and from the inside is most often performed:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Foamed heaters such as penoizol or polyurethane foam.

It is most convenient to insulate houses made of aerated concrete with mineral wool. It has a relatively low weight high level vapor permeability, does not burn in fire. Rodents will not start in it either, but for a house made of aerated concrete this is a big plus.

It is better not to insulate a gas concrete bath with simple mineral wool, as it reacts poorly to contact with moisture.

But with mineral wool from well-known manufacturers, the insulation of baths and other similar buildings, albeit with apprehension, can be carried out. And all because branded mineral wool insulation have much higher quality.

They are generally hydrophobic, and do not absorb moisture at all. The only serious drawback mineral wool- her price.

Not everyone can afford to take enough insulation to completely finish a two-story house from the outside or from the inside.

Expanded polystyrene, if you look without asking the price, it turns out much better than mineral wool. According to its characteristics, expanded polystyrene is almost in no way inferior to it, and its price is much lower.

But it is worth taking a closer look and taking into account the special aerated concrete house, as the situation will immediately change. The main problem with polystyrene is its poor vapor permeability. The use of such materials will shift the dew point inside the wall, causing the blocks to slowly collapse.

These negative effects can be mitigated by using vapor barrier film or something similar, but you are unlikely to be able to completely get rid of the problem. Expanded polystyrene can also become a home for rodents. They eat it with amazing speed.

As you can see, you can not use foam, but with great care. Sometimes you can combine foam and mineral wool. For example, foam parts of the house where there is minimal steam release. But rooms with a large selection such as a kitchen or bathroom should be insulated with mineral wool.

If you still cannot afford to work with mineral heaters, then you have enough foam trim. It's still better than being cold in winter. Yes, and working with foam is very convenient. Just use it better from the inside, and do it wisely.

Polyurethane foam is also well suited for wall insulation. It is a foam material that can be sprayed with special tools. It perfectly insulates the surface of the walls, moderately passes steam and is not afraid of moisture.

The only problem is its price. Polyurethane foam is very expensive. Moreover, both the material itself and its application will be expensive. That is why these solutions are practically not used in civil individual construction.

2.1 Wall insulation technology

As you yourself understand, it is possible to insulate a house made of aerated concrete both from the inside and outside.

Internal wall insulation is easier to perform. Such work is always easier to do, because you do not have to assemble large structures, take care of additional waterproofing and do a bunch of additional things.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration can be done by any man who has ever encountered construction work.

Of course, the first couple of hours will be spent on stabilization and stuffing your hands, but then the work will go like clockwork. And the area inside is smaller than outside. This means that the possibility of making a mistake is reduced.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the inside is best done using wet technology. That is, use dowels and a variety of fasteners to a minimum. Aerated concrete does not like such things very much, like.

If it is still necessary to resort to the use of dowels, then buy a special mount with a chemical base. It doesn't destroy that much. load-bearing structure block.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the wall, remove all unnecessary elements.
2. We prime the base.
3. We apply a solution to the insulation plates, glue them to the wall.
4. We cover the cracks with a solution, blow it with foam or glue it.
5. We apply a thin layer of plaster to the insulation. If mineral wool is used, then a mesh is also suitable.
6. We are finishing the wall.

When finishing from the inside, it is advisable to use only wet method and do not overdo it with plaster.

Moreover, we fix the plaster with the help of a grid. This is a very important point. Without the use of a grid, cracks may develop over time on the wall. As a finish, you can choose any options you like.

Vapor barrier here is better not to use or put directly under the plaster. This essentially eliminates the advantages that the vapor permeability of the insulation and the aerated concrete itself gives.

The house will become a little stuffier and more time will have to be devoted to airing or installing a reliable ventilation system. But if there is no other way out, then it is better to ventilate the room than to suffer from a shifted dew point and all the consequences that will appear in the end.

External wall insulation is a much more complex process. Here it is better to involve specialists who have special equipment. You can work with both foam and mineral wool. However, using mineral wool, as noted above, will be more useful.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the surface.
2. We mount ebbs, limiting elements, basement profiles, etc.
3. We prime and clean the base. We remove all unnecessary elements, calculate the insulation scheme.
4. We lay the insulation boards in a certain order. You can lay it on a layer of glue for insulation.
5. Additionally, we use special chemical dowels to fix the plates. Dowels are required for mineral wool. But they will not be superfluous if ordinary polystyrene foam is used.
6. We lay the waterproofing film.
7. We plaster the surface.
8. We apply the finish on the surface of the facade.

Today, the construction of private houses from aerated concrete blocks is becoming increasingly popular. Aerated concrete blocks have a rather interesting porous structure, which has low thermal conductivity, but is susceptible to moisture. This causes the use of a small amount of the heat-insulating layer of insulation, usually one or two. This is enough for the most severe frosts in winter time year and is necessary condition to protect blocks from damaging effects environment. How to insulate a house from aerated concrete?

Warming of the house from aerated concrete

Whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete is no longer a question, but how to do it right? Experts recommend making insulation with outer side Houses. This will avoid unnecessary waste of usable space, as well as provide additional protection to the outer walls of the house and the transition of the "dew point" to the outer walls. Dew point - temperature limit, at which the cooling air reaches a state of saturation and condenses into dew. In addition, you should not experiment with the thickness of the aerated concrete wall, so the option of 300 millimeters disappears immediately. According to the recommendations of experts 375 millimeters - minimum thickness walls of a private house made of aerated concrete! It's minimal allowable rate, taking into account the use of insulation.

Before proceeding with the insulation, it is necessary to select the insulation material and make a calculation of the amount of material that will be required in the process of work. The choice of insulation material should be taken responsibly, because this factor will determine the final cost of the work, the method of installation, as well as the quantitative consumption of insulation material. But before choosing the insulation material, you need to decide on the option of warming a private house.

Options for insulating a house from aerated concrete blocks:

• From within. In any case, with this method, living space will suffer, which can be used in a more efficient and rational way. In addition, you will need to install a rather expensive ventilation system, but even this will not save you from the appearance of fungi and mold in the space between the insulation and the aerated concrete wall.
• Outside . The walls of the house outside are recommended to be insulated with outside. This method is used not only for additional protection of walls from precipitation or scorching sun, with this method of insulation, time is saved due to relatively simple installation, no additional space is required for work. In addition, if it is necessary to change the facade of the house, this can be done without unnecessary complications. In addition, external insulation provides additional sound insulation and makes the house more attractive appearance.

Warming process

What type of insulation to choose, how to make insulation and what may be required for this? It is required to take into account the fact that aerated concrete has vapor-permeable properties. Therefore, in order to well insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, the insulation must have a vapor permeability higher than aerated concrete blocks. Otherwise, in internal walls moisture will begin to accumulate, which will gradually lead to their destruction or costly restoration. The most used materials as insulation for the external walls of an aerated concrete house are mineral wool and polystyrene.

Important! A necessary point that should be considered when warming a house is the influence of rodents. Small dirty tricks do not come close to mineral wool and simply adore polystyrene. They gnaw it, forming minks in it, so the facade must be completely covered with plaster to prevent the appearance of a family of rodents.

How to properly insulate with foam?

Styrofoam does not let steam through, so choosing such a heater, you should take care of a high-quality air ventilation system. But the undoubted advantages of using polystyrene include its low cost (almost several times cheaper than mineral wool).

Work procedure:

• Irregularities that occur over time or due to factory defects should be leveled;
• Near the windows it is required to stick a fiberglass mesh. It is fastened in such a way that there is at least 10 centimeters of mesh under the outermost layer of insulation, and it is also possible to glue about 10 centimeters more on top of it. This procedure is performed for additional reinforcement;
• Special glue is applied to the foam sheet (experts recommend using a notched trowel for uniform application and coverage of the entire foam surface);

Is it possible to insulate with mineral wool?

Mineral wool as an insulating material is much more practical than polystyrene. Of course, it has a higher cost, but it also has a number of undoubted advantages: high strength and vapor permeability. This material is recommended to be used to maintain a stable level of humidity and a comfortable microclimate in a private house. The working life of the insulation material without loss of working features is more than 50 years. Mineral wool insulators are produced in the following versions: some are in the form of plates, others are produced in the form of rolls. For ease of installation, the plates are produced in sizes of 500 * 1000 millimeters.

Work procedure:

• External walls must be cleaned of dust and dirt. For this, aggressive detergents, a hard brush and a metal sponge are used;
• Wall insulation with mineral wool will require a special adhesive;
• Additional fixation is provided by the use of plastic dowels;
• After the mineral wool dries a little, a fiberglass mesh is attached to it, which subsequently protects the walls from cracking paint or plaster;
• Another layer of glue is applied on top of the fiberglass mesh;
• It is recommended to start plastering and painting the insulation material after the glue has dried.

Other materials used for insulation

In addition to mineral wool and polystyrene, foam (extruded polystyrene foam) and polyurethane foam can be used as insulation. Insulation of aerated concrete from the outside with foam plastic significantly reduces heat loss due to the low coefficient of thermal conductivity. In addition, this material is suitable for mounting on any surface. Polyurethane foam as a heater outside the house forms foam when it begins to interact with the insulated surface.

Finishing blocks of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete blocks are several times higher than wooden materials by vapor permeability. This is one of several reasons for the popularity of aerated concrete blocks. But violations made during installation or operation can affect vapor permeability. Aerated concrete walls for siding - perfect solution on the use of finishing materials. Sometimes aerated concrete blocks can hide behind brick wall, decorative tiles or plaster mixtures. The work becomes easier when it turns out that an extended foundation was used in the construction of the house. When ennobling the appearance with a brick, remember to create ventilation holes.

Interior decoration. Work procedure:

• A primer is applied on top of the insulation;
• The plaster is applied after the primer has dried;
• It is recommended to smooth the walls after the plaster has dried. This stage is carried out 2 times in a row (the interval between repetitions is a day);
• The wall is insulated with the help of an internal facing material - drywall, using a special adhesive solution. Prepare in advance wooden frame from rails, and plasterboard panels are mounted on them, which are subsequently painted with vapor-permeable paint.

An alternative to using aerated concrete blocks

It is most rational and effective to provide for the insulation of aerated concrete with foam plastic, mineral wool or foam plastic at the stage of building a house. It is better to insulate the house at the very beginning than to work later, when the labor intensity will increase several times. But the most common mistake in building a house is laying aerated concrete blocks on concrete mortar. After all, it is he who passes the cold. Through the seams outside air penetrates the house, increasing heating costs.

A possible option for effective installation is a special adhesive base, the thickness of which does not exceed three millimeters. The better the roof, window openings and foundation are insulated, the better. After all, these objects are insulated at the very beginning of construction.

Afterword

Now you are probably wondering - is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete and what materials to use? Of course you do! After all, an insulated house built of aerated concrete has a number of advantages: the relative ease of work that does not require special skills, low cost and high thermal insulation of the walls provide residents of a private house with a fairly comfortable stay. But to exclude possible troubles associated with climatic features and the manifestation of the vital activity of rodents, the best solution is to insulate aerated concrete with foam plastic, foam plastic or mineral wool.

Aerated concrete blocks are widely used in modern construction both in our country and abroad. Despite the fact that aerated concrete has good thermal insulation qualities, walls made of this material must be insulated (in order to reduce the cost of heating the house and increase the energy-saving performance of the entire structure). Thermal insulation of aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene is a very effective and inexpensive way to achieve this goal.

The choice of insulation material

Experts argue that it is more expedient to insulate a structure made of aerated concrete from the outside than from inside the house: firstly, it is not lost effective area premises; secondly, the “dew point” shifts beyond the aerated concrete blocks. A wide variety of materials are used to insulate buildings made of aerated concrete from the outside: mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). Expanded polystyrene is the most popular, due to its low thermal conductivity, durability and low cost. This material is fireproof due to the fact that it contains fire retardant. Also, the advantages of the material include ease of processing and installation: it is easy to cut into pieces of the desired shape, and the plates standard sizes(0.5 x 1, 1 x 1, 1 x 2 m) it is convenient to attach to aerated concrete walls. The thickness of the material (from 20 to 100 mm) allows you to create a sufficient heat-insulating layer (if necessary, the panels can be folded in half). Also, to order, plants produce non-standard sheets of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of up to 500 mm. That is, for the insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, there is a large selection of finished products.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To determine the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to make a simple calculation. The data for the calculation is taken from the reference tables. SNiP-th standardizes the total required heat transfer resistance for walls (Ro) depending on the region (measured in m² ° C / W). This value is the sum of the resistance to heat transfer of the wall material (Rst) and the insulation layer (Rut): Ro = Rst + Rut. For example, choose St. Petersburg (Ro=3.08).

Heat transfer resistance is calculated by the formula R= δ ⁄ λ, where δ is the thickness of the material (m), λ is the thermal conductivity of the material (W/m °C). Let's say our house is built from aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand, 300 mm thick (λ = 0.42 - we take from the reference table). Then the own heat transfer resistance of the wall without thermal insulation will be Rst = 0.3 / 0.42 = 0.72, and the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer Rut = Ro-Rst = 3.08-0.72 = 2.36. As a heat-insulating material, we choose lightweight polystyrene with a density of 10 kg / mᶟ (λ = 0.044 W / m ° C).

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated by the formula δ=Rut λ. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene with a density of 10 kg / mᶟ - λ \u003d 0.044 W / m ° C.

The thickness of the insulation is δ = 2.36 0.044 = 0.104 m, that is, according to the norms and rules, standard polystyrene plates with a thickness of 10 cm are suitable for our house.

We check our calculations for the temperature of the "dew point" (condensation formation in the wall):

It can be seen from the graphs that the condensation zone (the area where the lines of the wall temperature and the “dew point” temperature coincide) is located in the heat-insulating layer and does not reach the aerated concrete even at an outside air temperature of -30˚С. Conclusion: our heat-insulating layer is calculated correctly, that is, even at the lowest temperatures, the aerated concrete wall will not be saturated with moisture.

Let's say you don't want to do any calculations and you decide to just buy a material 5 cm thick. Let's see what area the condensation zone will be in with this thickness and all other conditions being equal. For clarity, here is a graph:

We see that moisture is formed not only in the heat-insulating layer, but also in aerated concrete. The presence of water, the thermal conductivity of which is much higher (λ≈0.6) than that of aerated concrete and expanded polystyrene, leads to a decrease in the heat-saving characteristics of the walls of the structure, that is, as a result, we get a "cold house".

Insulation of walls from aerated concrete blocks

Although the application polystyrene boards to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside reduces its "breathing" properties, this material is widely used. The technology for arranging a heat-insulating layer is quite simple and can easily be done independently.

Wall preparation

The surface of aerated concrete blocks is quite even, so the preparation of the walls comes down to removing the influx of the adhesive solution in the area of ​​​​interblock joints. Potholes (if any formed during the construction process) are sealed with repair cement mortar. Then we cover the entire surface of the wall with an antiseptic solution (to prevent mold and fungus). After the antiseptic has dried, we prime the walls to improve adhesion when gluing polystyrene plates to aerated concrete.

Installation of heat-insulating plates

We paste over the walls of the building with sheets of expanded polystyrene using special adhesives. As an adhesive, you can use ready-made dry mixes (Ceresit CT 85, T-Avangard-K, Kreisel 210, Bergauf ISOFIX), liquid adhesives (Bitumast) or ready-made assembly adhesives in aerosol packaging (Tytan Styro 753, Ceresit CT 84 "Express" , Soudal Soudatherm, TechnoNIKOL 500). Glue is applied to the plates around the perimeter and additionally in several places on the surface.

Important! The composition of adhesives should not include solvents or other chemical components that can damage the surface of expanded polystyrene or disrupt the structure of the material.

Many adhesive compositions allow mounting boards at ambient temperatures from -10˚С to +40˚С. However, experts in the field of housing construction recommend that thermal insulation work be carried out at a temperature not lower than + 7 ° C and in dry, calm weather.

First, we glue the first bottom row of foam plates along the entire perimeter of the building, then we fasten the remaining rows. We press the plates with force to the surface of the wall and lay them in a checkerboard pattern. We check the correctness of the installation with a level.

Important! In the corners of the structure, the panels are laid end-to-end, that is, in such a way that in one row the panel from the end of the building extends to the thickness of the sheet, and the panel located at an angle of 90 degrees rests against it. In the next row, the operation is performed in reverse order.

After the final drying of the adhesive composition (about 1 day), we additionally fasten each sheet with the help of special dowels with large caps (“umbrellas”), which should not contain metal parts. The fact is that they rust and create additional cold bridges in the heat-insulating layer: that is, the dowel itself and the central nail must be plastic. Depending on the size, 5-6 dowels are needed for each sheet.

Using a perforator, we make a hole in the heat insulator layer and the aerated concrete wall, then we hammer in the dowel with a hammer and insert the fixing nail.

After the installation of all fixing dowels is completed, we proceed to the finishing of the walls.

Exterior finish of the heat insulator made of expanded polystyrene

Since expanded polystyrene has low strength and is subject to the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation, after laying it, it is necessary to carry out finishing work.

First, on top of the expanded polystyrene, using a special plaster solution (or adhesive), we fasten a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which prevents cracking of the plaster and improves adhesion. After complete drying, apply a layer of finishing decorative plaster. Such an external finish is quite enough to give the heat-insulating layer the necessary strength.

We insulate the floor with polystyrene foam

The insulation of the concrete floor with polystyrene foam is carried out with sheets with a density of 20-30 kg / mᶟ. We produce polystyrene board flooring as follows:

• we make a preliminary leveling fill (it is done if the height difference of the base exceeds 5 mm), let it dry;
• primed surface;
• around the entire perimeter of the room, we attach a damper tape to the bottom of the walls;
• we lay a layer of waterproofing on top of the screed (ordinary polyethylene is quite suitable: at the joints, the material is overlapped - at least 10 cm, we start on the walls - at least 20 cm; we fasten everything with construction tape);
• we lay sheets of polystyrene on the floor according to the groove-spike principle in a checkerboard pattern (the spikes must fully fit into the grooves);
• on top of the heat-insulating layer we lay vapor barrier and reinforcing mesh;
• we make a screed of the required thickness.

On a note! This method of insulation is very effective, but the height of the room is reduced by 10-15 cm.

Floor insulation can be made not only with the help of expanded polystyrene plates, but also with the help of expanded polystyrene concrete, having equipped a screed from it (since the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene concrete is low - λ = 0.05 ÷ 0.07 W / m ° C). We prepare a solution for such a filling ourselves by mixing the necessary ingredients: 20 kg of cement, 12.5 liters of water and 0.125 m³ of expanded polystyrene granules, or we buy a ready-made dry mix. After insulation with polystyrene concrete, we produce finishing screed(if necessary) and lay the floor covering.

Ceiling insulation

Styrofoam can be successfully used to insulate the ceiling indoors. As a rule, thin sheets 5 cm thick are used for these purposes. The fixing of plates to the ceiling is similar to laying on outer wall. The only difference is that you can use adhesives and plaster mixtures that are intended for indoor use (they are cheaper than for outdoor use).

In custody

By correctly calculating the thickness of the heat-insulating layer of expanded polystyrene and observing the technology of laying sheets and exterior finishes, you can build a warm and comfortable home for living in any region.

Facing the walls of residential buildings with insulating materials is an event that is given Special attention still at the design stage. It does not matter what materials you will use to build the facility, but experienced builders advise to insulate not only the roof and floors, but also the load-bearing walls. This will help conserve heat energy and prevent mold growth. To solve such a problem, there is a sufficient number of materials suitable for these purposes. Let's try to figure out what is the best way to insulate a house from aerated concrete.

Why you need to insulate

Many builders prefer gas silicate blocks for certain reasons. First of all, construction work from such material does not imply the presence of special skills. The blocks are large and light, they are connected without problems with a special adhesive mass. The objects do not need a powerful foundation, and the insulation of the walls of the house from aerated concrete from the outside will reduce the cost of the project.

Blocks belong to the group of cellular concrete. If we compare aerated concrete with the manufacture of cinder blocks, then technological process has differences. In a nutshell, a foaming agent, aluminum powder, is added to a mixture of cement and lime. Hydrogen is released, a huge amount of voids remain in the block.

From the very beginning, porous blocks are characterized by poor mechanical strength. To increase it, the final production step takes place in an autoclave plant, where the blocks are subjected to considerable pressure and high temperature. As a result, the material is quite durable.

From the lessons of physics it is known that air is considered one of the the best materials capable of insulating heat. And the thermal conductivity index will depend on the number of pores in the block.

But there is one problem - the porous cells in the gas silicate material are open, which makes the block vapor permeable and allows it to absorb moisture. For this reason, the answer to the question - is it necessary to insulate an aerated concrete house, will be unambiguous - it is necessary.

Another thing is what kind of protective layer to create, and is it necessary to insulate the house from aerated concrete 300, or is it enough to line it with finishing materials?

It is no secret that the thickness of the bearing walls, no matter what materials they are made of, will be fully determined by the average annual temperature regime your region. As it follows from this, the average thickness of aerated concrete walls can be 30 - 50 cm. But almost no one is interested in what, in this case, experts mean the bearing indicators of the blocks. Simply put, the walls will be strong.

And, for example, questions about whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 400 and other brands are often silent.

With regard to thermal conductivity, in some regions of Russia, only aerated concrete walls start from 700 mm in thickness.

Everyone who plans construction in these regions and thinks whether it is necessary to carry out external insulation of a house made of aerated concrete, if its walls are 30 cm thick, or you can simply arrange a plaster layer, you need to take into account that if you insulate the facade of a house made of aerated concrete with foam plastic or mineralized wool, then ten centimeters thick insulation slabs will equivalently replace 300 mm thick walls made of aerated concrete material.

It turns out that half-meter walls should have a heat-insulating layer of at least 10 mm. And for walls made of aerated concrete grade d 500 with a thickness of 400 mm or less, more massive thermal insulation will be required.

In addition to the thermal conductivity index, there is another important feature - the concept of "dew point". This term describes the place inside the outer walls, which has zero temperature. It is here that the maximum amount of condensate will accumulate.

It should be recalled that aerated concrete blocks are distinguished by a porous structure, and if dew points fall on the block itself, then moisture will freeze and thaw from temperature fluctuations, destroying the material.

There is only one way out in this situation - to try to transfer the point to the insulation layer. It will be less subject to destruction, and if it deteriorates, then it can be changed faster than shifting the walls. By the way, this explains the need for insulation of external walls.

Materials for insulation

Most often, for the insulation of walls made of heat-insulating aerated concrete, they use:

Features of insulation with various materials

There are many options for arranging a layer of insulating material. Manufacturers offer a wide range of products for this at affordable prices. Consider the most popular options:

Styrofoam

One of economical options A that is only used outside the object. There are two types - foam and foam.

Styrofoam

The cost of the material is low, so it is preferred by developers seeking to save a budget.

It should be taken into account that it does not let steam through. For this reason, when installing an insulating layer, it is recommended to provide a ventilation system.

The material is fixed on the previously cleaned walls with an adhesive composition applied with a spatula with teeth. Additionally, plastic dowels are used. During the gluing of foam sheets, their slight displacement is allowed. You can plaster and paint the surface after the adhesive solution has completely dried.

Penoplex

With its characteristics, the material resembles polystyrene, it is used for outdoor work. Before starting the installation, the surface of the walls is cleaned of gaps, chips, protrusions and cracks using a plaster mortar. This gives the surface of the walls evenness and additional protection from the penetration of cold air currents.

When the plaster mortar dries, the wall is treated with a primer to improve the adhesion of the foam insulation to the aerated concrete blocks. When installing an insulating layer, a cement-based adhesive and dish-shaped dowels are used. The final stage is the finishing of the facade walls with plaster mortars or siding panels.

mineral wool

The material has good strength and vapor permeability, goes well with aerated concrete walls.

The use of such material provides comfort and a moderate level of humidity in the room.

The insulation layer will last at least seventy years. The material is fastened with plastic dowels and glue, which fixes the mesh of fiberglass material. It will ensure the integrity of the plaster layer and paint applied from above. Some people prefer to arrange wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool for siding.

Many prefer stone wool

And yet, what is the best way to insulate aerated concrete? Today's market is able to offer any materials for decoration and insulation. It is only necessary to remember that not all heaters are able to work effectively on aerated concrete blocks.

The basic principle of creating a multilayer structure is to increase the vapor permeability of the next layer, starting from the inner surface of the walls. Be that as it may, steam is one of the waste products, and some of it is removed outside through the walls. Among all the materials used as insulation for aerated concrete houses, many experts choose stone wool.

Two types of facade are very popular - "wet", having a thin layer of plaster, and a hinged ventilated system. In the first version, the steam is removed through the walls into the insulation layer, then it passes into the plaster. Otherwise, steam is drawn out along ventilation gaps, which are arranged between the insulating layer and facing material.

Under the plaster layer, stronger plates are used, and for ventilated facades, light mineral wool with a low level of compressibility is preferred.

Thin layer plasters can be applied on all substrates, and in ventilated facade system the use of materials that meet fire safety requirements is allowed. Needless to say, cotton wool belongs to such a group.

Technological features of the installation of mineral wool

A ventilated façade with siding trim is a popular option for finishing private homes because it eliminates all foundation errors. Yes, and the work is not very difficult, carried out on their own.

Over time, heaving forces or other causes can cause cracks in the masonry, then the hinged cladding system does not suffer. And if we take into account the fragility of aerated concrete blocks and the need for strict adherence to production technology, most consumers prefer facing, considering it a more durable finishing layer. To know how to properly insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside, you need to understand the stages of work.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to insulate a building that is already in operation, all functional and decorative elements, clean the surface from dirt, primed. If there are doubts about the bearing capabilities of the foundation and walls, they are examined by tapping with a hammer.

When insulation is carried out during construction, the remaining solution is removed from the surface. Wet walls should be allowed time to dry completely.

Surface marking

Markings are applied to the walls using a building level or level to arrange a frame base. The distance between the bars depends on the size of the insulation material.

Installation of vertical racks

To completely eliminate heat leakage, insulation is performed in two layers, overlaps are arranged at the joints. To do this, first collect the vertical crate.

The size of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. It is fixed to the aerated concrete surface with special fasteners.

Cotton padding

The thickness of the insulation is determined by special heat engineering calculations. Most often, it is 10 - 15 cm. The complete absence of shrinkage and excellent elasticity of the material make it possible to simplify the technological process by mounting cotton wool without additional fasteners, inserting it by surprise. If necessary, they can always be trimmed with a sharp knife or a fine-toothed hand saw. Segments are always useful for filling gaps.

Fastening of horizontal racks

Having laid the first layer, markings are made for horizontal rails. The second row of bars is necessary so that the frame base for the siding is fixed vertically to it.

Cotton pad

Slabs laid side by side with a shift of the seam sections make it possible to completely exclude cold bridges, even if the racks are fixed with metal fasteners.

Protection

We figured out how to insulate walls with stone wool. It remains to protect it from the effects of precipitation and ensure unhindered drainage of condensate. For this purpose, it is laid vapor-permeable material.

Fasteners for lining are arranged on top of such a membrane, while a gap of three to five centimeters is observed, which provides the heater with a normal operating mode.

Many doubt whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete in this way, considering it costly. But the heat stored in the future will allow you to save on heating.

Internal insulation of the building from aerated concrete blocks

How to insulate the outside of the wall, we understand. It remains to provide internal insulation. It is important to know here that the aerated concrete inside should not be insulated, since in winter warm air currents will not be able to pass through the block pores. Condensation will begin to accumulate, the walls will become saturated with moisture and freeze. All this will have a negative impact on the operation of the facility. From the inside, with your own hands, you can simply align the walls and glue the wallpaper.

It turns out that aerated concrete is insulated only from the outside. This will help to keep warm and protect the house from destruction. By the way, do not forget about the insulation for the ceiling. Mineral wool already known for its properties will perfectly cope with its role.

As follows from the reviews, it is better not to even design a 300 mm aerated concrete house without insulation.

Preference should be given to those materials that have good vapor permeability.

Anyone who decides to build a house of 400 mm aerated concrete without insulation, and wonders if this can be done, is recommended to simply plaster the walls from the outside in order to protect the blocks from destruction under the influence of precipitation. In addition, the plaster layer will give the building a presentable appearance.

When performing wall insulation, take care of reliable ventilation. In addition, the performance of the insulation material must match those of the materials used in the construction of walls.

Conclusion

There is only one conclusion now - wall insulation is necessary. Aerated concrete walls, insulated from the outside, have their own advantages:

• the work performed does not cause difficulties;
• the cost of the object is reduced due to reliable thermal insulation of the walls.

In order to exclude possible problems associated with the peculiarities of the climate and the vital activity of rodents, it is recommended to insulate aerated concrete walls with mineralized wool, foam or polystyrene.

If the walls are insulated according to the rules, heating costs are minimized. Only carry out work in accordance with technological requirements, use high-quality materials.

betonov.com

Aerated concrete, although porous, cannot by itself provide external thermal insulation at home. For strong load-bearing walls, sufficiently dense building blocks not lower than brand D500. And in order for the box to turn out not only reliable, but also warm, they would have to be laid in two rows. It will turn out to be more expensive than insulating a load-bearing wall, and this approach does not 100% solve the problem of losses. Therefore, our review is devoted to materials that will best cope with this task.

1. The use of mineral wool
2. Basalt panels
3. Insulation with PPS boards
4. Polyurethane foam spraying

Only residents of the southern regions can afford to leave a house made of aerated concrete without external insulation, where there are no bitter frosts, and the temperature difference in winter outside and inside the house is not too great. In the central regions, practice shows that it is cheaper to lay one to one and a half blocks, and then simply perform external insulation.

Do not discount the formation of a condensation plane, that is, a “dew point”, which occurs when there is a large difference in temperatures outside and in indoor areas. Because of this, unprotected masonry gets wet in winter to a depth of 1-2 cm, and the entire surface of the load-bearing walls from a thermal insulator turns into a continuous source of losses. In order to take this zone out of the building envelope, an aerated concrete house needs insulation from the outside.

To choose the right material for external thermal insulation, you need to have a good idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe "behavior" of cellular blocks, taking into account all their pros and cons. Due to the high porosity, they not only reliably retain heat in the house, but also breathe quite actively themselves. Therefore, it is necessary to consider how air exchange will take place so as not to provoke the appearance of condensate under the external insulation.

The thermal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete is planned in accordance with the basic rule of vapor permeability of walls: with each subsequent layer of the facade “pie”, it should increase. And if for some reason the selected material cannot provide unhindered movement of air from the inside, it is better to leave a ventilated gap in front of it. Aerated concrete has a vapor permeability in the range of 0.15-0.25 mg / m ∙ h ∙ Pa. Let's see how to insulate the house from the outside with such initial data.

Mineral wool

It perfectly passes air through its fibers, and it is easy to breathe in the interior. Another plus is the relatively low cost. So a completely logical solution would be to insulate the walls of the house with mineral wool. But she has a couple of not the most useful properties:

• Hygroscopicity.

Insulation of the aerated concrete facade with a mineral “sponge” requires special protection of the thermal insulation from moisture coming both in the form of suspended vapor from inside the house and from the outside.

• fragility.

Mineral wool serves for about 10-15 years, gradually crumbling into dust and losing its properties. After outer skin you will have to dismantle and restart the insulation of the house from aerated concrete.

Basalt slabs

A house made of aerated concrete can be overlaid with basalt products from the outside. This is a special and improved case of mineral wool - in no way inferior to it in terms of insulating properties, but more durable and with good performance characteristics.

The insulation of a house from aerated concrete blocks is carried out using a technology that is simultaneously similar to working with Penoplex and with mineral wool materials. They are glued to primed walls and additionally fixed with facade dowels. But in comparison with expanded polystyrene, the thermal insulation of aerated concrete with basalt slabs is a little more complicated, since it involves the use of a diffusion membrane. After that, plaster is applied on the outside of the insulation using a reinforcing mesh and the facade is painted.

The basalt slab can be made from ultra-thin (1-3 microns) and thin fibers (4-15 microns). The first retains heat better due to the larger volume of air pores, the second is more profitable in price.

Styrofoam

The insulation of aerated concrete outside with PPS slabs causes a lot of controversy. The reason is the low permeability of expanded polystyrene and the appearance of the effect of a thermos, that is, a sealed shell that prevents air exchange. Another unpleasant moment is the possible shift of the “dew point” to the zone of contact between the wall and the insulation, which causes waterlogging of the outer surface of the masonry.

But these problems are solved with the help of ventilation gaps, especially if a crate for siding is mounted on the facade. Plastic cladding for aerated concrete must be placed at such a distance from the bearing walls that there is enough space for Penoplex slabs, plus a gap of a couple of centimeters. The insulation itself is inserted between the guides of the frame, and the aerated concrete "let off steam" without hindrance.

Another scheme is also possible if the house has an effective supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, the insulation of aerated concrete with Penoplex is greatly simplified. Everything you need to do to securely insulate your home:

• put on glue and fix on the facade with dowel-fungi of the Penoplex plate;
• it is good to seal the seams with mounting foam;
• pull a mesh over the polystyrene foam and plaster the walls.

This method of insulating a house made of aerated concrete will allow you to create absolutely waterproof protection for porous blocks.

polyurethane foam

Liquid polyurethane foam, which is applied to surfaces by spraying, is not very popular in private construction. To work with it, you need special equipment, so you have to spend money on calling a brigade - you can’t overpower such insulation of aerated concrete on your own.

Spraying polyurethane foam allows you to create a continuous porous layer of insulation over the entire facade of aerated concrete, which is not sensitive to moisture and does not collapse over time. In addition, thermal insulation simply sticks to the surface of the walls, without violating the integrity of the blocks in the masonry, which, given their modest strength, is also important. But such external insulation is not cheap - you will have to pay about 550 rubles / m2 for work and material 100 mm thick.

Characteristics of polyurethane foam:

• Coeff. thermal conductivity - 0.026 W / m∙K.
• Air permeability - about 0.1 mg / (m∙h∙Pa).
• Adhesion - 1.5-2.5 kg / cm2.
• The average water absorption by volume is 1.6%.
• Density - 40-120 kg / m3.
• Service life - from 25 years.
• Flammability class - G2.

Comparing the pros and cons of polyurethane foam with the properties of other external heaters, its lowest thermal conductivity should be highlighted. But not in every city you can find companies that provide PPU insulation services. So in most cases you will have to be content with more common and available materials.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls from the outside is a simple and necessary procedure. Of course, there are many examples of buildings that stand perfectly without insulation and even exterior finishes. But in houses for year-round living, it is better to spend once, even a considerable amount, on a reliable insulator than to pay extra money for energy resources every winter.

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abisgroup.ru

Insulation of aerated concrete house from the outside and from the inside: choice of material, instructions

General characteristics aerated concrete

Aerated concrete (or gas silicate) is very popular today as a material for the construction of residential buildings. Its composition is silicates, cement, various industrial slag as a filler and an aluminum foam component. Aluminum reacts with water, as a result of which hydrogen is released - from here the pores formed under the influence of gas bubbles are taken.

This material is environmentally friendly, which is important in modern world. It is easy to use and has a low price.

But he also has a number of significant drawbacks - they should not be forgotten when building houses using gas silicate blocks.

1. Low resistance to mechanical stress. Low strength. This material they are used in the construction of houses up to three floors high, or if the building is reinforced with metal lintels, from which the aerated concrete wall loses its thermal insulation qualities.
2. Gas silicate brick has a high porosity, which is the cause of increased water absorption. Therefore, the facade must be faced with plaster or other finishing materials. If we neglect this factor, an aerated concrete wall under the influence of precipitation can absorb up to 35 percent of moisture.
3. Gas silicate brick excludes any possibility of using self-tapping screws. Any mechanical violations of the structure are fraught with the destruction of the building. Therefore, chemical anchors should be used if necessary.

Is it necessary to insulate the walls of aerated concrete

There is an opinion that gas silicate houses do not require special insulation, that the porous structure of gas silicate blocks provides their high heat-shielding properties and lining - sufficient protection for the walls. However, in practice things are somewhat different. In order to decide whether it is necessary to insulate walls made of aerated concrete, the following factors should be considered:

• - the climate of your region;
• - thickness of gas silicate blocks;
• - the thickness of the seam in the masonry;
• - filling the seam in the masonry.

If cement is used to fill the joints in the construction of aerated concrete walls, the joints will be thick and the thermal insulation properties of the walls will be very doubtful. It makes sense to use specialized glue in the masonry - this will allow you to make thin seams between the blocks. With a brick thickness of 375 mm, you can do without a heat-shielding layer - the facade cladding will be sufficient protection, but subject to a low block density and correctly made seams.

It is safe to say that a house made of gas silicate blocks needs to be finished with insulation if:

• - material was used, the density of which is more than D500;
• - gas silicate was used, the thickness of which is less than 30 cm;
• - if the supporting frame of the building was filled with aerated concrete bricks;
• - if the seams in the masonry are too thick;
• - if cement was used in the masonry instead of specialized glue.

The choice of material and method of heat-shielding finish

Before starting the insulation of a house made of aerated concrete, you should decide on the material and method of laying the insulation - outside or inside the house.

For thermal insulation, materials such as foam plastic (polystyrene), polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam) and mineral wool are used. However, the most popular is deservedly penoplex or, as it is also called, extruded polystyrene foam. It is distinguished by high thermal insulation properties, does not absorb moisture, has a low weight, is easy to install and in many types of machining. Styrofoam is much cheaper than PU foam and does not require special equipment to use. If the installation is correct, the insulation of gas silicate walls with polystyrene foam will give a high effect of heat saving to your home.

When choosing to finish the house with polystyrene foam from the inside, you need to remember the following:

• - the insulating layer will need to be changed frequently due to the fact that the chances of gas condensate on the surface of gas silicate blocks and foam slabs are quite large;
• - there is a need for a waterproofing layer in order to protect the foam boards from moisture, and a ventilated layer to remove condensate. Thus, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200byour housing is significantly reduced.

The undoubted advantage of laying out the thermolayer from the inside is ease of installation - this is especially important when in large numbers floors in the building. If all of the above suits you, the method of thermal insulation of the house from the inside will be an easier solution.

When finishing the gas silicate walls with foam plastic from the outside, the durability of the structure increases, the facade looks more aesthetically pleasing, the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200byour housing is not “eaten up”. However, there are a number of difficulties when installing the insulating layer.

In any case, a house made of gas silicate blocks will need cladding to increase durability. Which way to choose is up to you.

Finishing the house with foam plastic outside

On initial stage it is necessary to clean the walls of aerated concrete from construction debris, layers, dust. We level all cracks, cracks and irregularities with the help of special building cement mortars and putties.

We prepare specialized glue, strictly following the instructions, avoiding the formation of lumps and solid particles. With the prepared glue, we spread foam and aerated concrete wall over the entire surface. The plates are laid end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern. Then we fix the penoplex with special plastic dowels. To do this, we drill holes in each plate in the center and in the corners. We hammer a dowel into each hole with a hammer, hide the hat in foam plastic. We hammer the plastic core into the middle of the dowel until it stops. Cut off the rest. The gaps between the plates must be filled with sealant or mounting foam. After drying, the facade needs a cladding to protect it from external atmospheric influences. The method of thermal protection of aerated concrete walls from the outside is quite laborious, but it is quite possible to do it on your own. Finishing cladding after insulation work also does not require special building skills.

Finishing the house with foam from the inside

At its core, the process of insulating a gas-block house with foam plastic from the inside does not differ in any significant way from the external method. At the initial stage, we clean the wall from dust and debris, level and overwrite it. We glue foam slabs on the aerated concrete wall, as described in the previous section. After the glue and sealant have dried, we can proceed to plastering and finishing work. It should be noted that the lining of the outer surfaces of a gas-block house is necessary in any case - we should not forget about it.

Conclusion

Gas-block houses, contrary to popular belief, should be insulated. This will make your home more comfortable, more durable, increase the soundproofing of housing, protect the facade from snow and rain. And you can do it yourself. Everything is in your hands - go for it!

mynovostroika.ru

Warming a house from foam blocks outside: the harm and benefits of foam plastic

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, what thermal insulation material to choose? These questions concern many who have decided to build a house from cellular materials. Because the distinguishing feature aerated concrete - vapor permeability, this property must be preserved.

For heat-insulating materials, this coefficient should be somewhat lower than that of the material from which the walls are built. If this parameter is higher, there is a possibility of moisture accumulation.

Is it possible to use foam plastic for insulation, a material that is very popular? How to properly insulate the gas silicate walls of the house?

Styrofoam properties

Like aerated concrete, foam plastic has positive and negative qualities

Material advantages

• Polyfoam is environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic substances.
• Durable, does not decompose.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor barrier properties.
• Fireproof, fire resistant, self-extinguishing.
• Short specific gravity, does not weigh down the structure.
• Relatively inexpensive material.

Styrofoam properties - thermal conductivity, long service life and relatively good vapor permeability

Material disadvantages

• Fragility, foam crumbles easily.
• Destroyed in contact with nitro paints, enamels, varnishes.
• Doesn't let air through.
• The material can be damaged by rodents, so it needs protection.

When choosing a foam plastic as a heater for aerated concrete outside, it is necessary to take into account all its qualities. The vapor permeability coefficient of the material is lower than that of aerated concrete blocks. This problem can be solved by providing additional ventilation.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls with foam plastic will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature fluctuations in the house, and reduce heating costs

The sequence of works on the installation of foam from the outside

To insulate the facade of the building, it is necessary to adhere to the following sequence

1. Surface preparation. The surface of aerated concrete must be cleaned of dirt, glue, dents and other irregularities should be leveled;
2. Application of a primer on the outside for porous materials;
3. Along the perimeter of the windows, it is recommended to reinforce with fiberglass mesh. Its size should be such that 10 cm enter under the insulation;
4. Bonding foam boards. For this, a special adhesive for aerated concrete is used. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is evenly distributed over a small section of the wall outside the house or onto a sheet of insulation. The foam is pressed against the wall with light movements. All joints are processed with glue;
5. For additional fastening outside, plastic long dowels with a cap are used - an umbrella in the middle of the sheet and at its corners;
6. The sheets will be glued correctly with an offset, just like when laying blocks;
7. Application of the first plaster layer on the foam, followed by gluing the reinforcing mesh. The joints of the mesh must be overlapped, so that subsequently cracks will not form;
8. Application of the second layer of plaster;
9. Facade painting.

Highlights at work

In construction there is such a thing as "dew point". The formation of condensate will depend on its location. When erecting walls, the point is in the blocks themselves, but when they begin to insulate, there is a gradual shift, moreover, towards the heat-insulating material.

High-quality insulation is a guarantee comfortable conditions in room

Consider the following points

• The house must be properly ventilated.
• It is necessary to choose the right thickness of the foam, taking into account the indicators for heat engineering. It is possible to insulate the walls from the outside with thin sheets of 2-4 cm, but this will be a big mistake. The temperature in aerated concrete should always be positive. The central regions of Russia are characterized by low winter temperatures, sheets 10 cm thick - The best decision, then it will be warmer in the house.

We emphasize once again that the foam plastic passes vapors worse, thus, the humidity of aerated concrete walls increases by an average of 6 - 7%. Humidity can be reduced with a good ventilation system. You can insulate the outer walls with expanded polystyrene, a lightweight waterproof material. It has poor vapor permeability. Other materials for facade insulation, such as extruded polystyrene foam and foam glass, are not so popular in use.

How important it is for the house to "breathe" is up to you. You can make a house "breathe" if you provide both good hood and air intake.

Today, facade insulation with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive methods, and is very popular, since the main purpose of insulation is to keep warm. With this problem, a material such as polystyrene does an excellent job.

obloke.com

Insulation of a house from foam blocks outside with foam plastic

Houses built from foam blocks have a high heat-saving ability. But despite this, the walls of the building still need to be insulated. This will save heat energy for a long time and save on heating bills. In addition, even a beginner can perform thermal insulation work, since the whole process is quick and easy. It is also worth seeing how the wooden house is insulated from the outside with mineral wool.

How to insulate

Today, with the choice of a suitable material, no problems should arise. To insulate a house from foam blocks, you can use numerous options for heat insulators that are commercially available.

Mineral wool

This material goes well with foam blocks. Mineral wool has excellent vapor-permeable and heat-insulating properties. But it is only possible to achieve strong thermal insulation, provided that a special glue is used when attaching the material. But to apply cement mortar it is impossible, as it creates cold bridges.

Insulation of the house from foam blocks with mineral wool

It is best to also fix the foam block with glue, and not with a solution. The advantages of mineral wool remain its resistance to damage, burning, as well as environmental Safety. Such material is also perfect for insulating the front door with your own hands.

Styrofoam

In terms of its soundproofing qualities, the material is inferior to mineral wool. But despite this, he is able to resist fire, moisture. And it is also very convenient to work with expanded polystyrene, and everyone can buy it, since it is inexpensive. When using expanded polystyrene, it must be borne in mind that it allows steam to pass through, as a result of which the room can be stuffy.

Styrofoam for insulation

So it is necessary to produce insulation using the material in question in houses where there is excellent ventilation. Sometimes when using polystyrene foam, you have to take care of artificial ventilation by installing air conditioners. It will also be useful to learn about how the house is insulated and sheathed with siding.

polyurethane foam

This material is suitable for those who want to carry out all the work on insulating a house from foam blocks as quickly as possible. After insulation, the maximum protection of foam blocks from negative impact atmospheric precipitation.

Polyurethane foam for insulation of foam blocks

But the material has a number of disadvantages that must be considered when buying polyurethane foam:

1. Since the material is applied by spraying, the base is completely isolated. Consequently, he stops breathing. In addition, the heat insulator partially penetrates deep into the structure, filling the pores of the foam blocks. There may also be difficulties with ventilation, which cannot be eliminated by one's own efforts.
2. Polyurethane foam is not a cheap pleasure. It can only be used with special equipment. Even before applying the composition, it is important to properly prepare. Here you have to pay for the services of specialists. But how the facade is insulated with foam plastic with your own hands, you can read here.
3. The material is difficult to repair. It will not work on your own to dismantle the insulation in a separate area. You will have to turn again to the services of specialists. Still have to disassemble the exterior trim.

Plaster

In this case, you will have to use special compounds that have different thermal insulation properties.

With plaster

The advantages of dry thermal insulation include:

• speed of thermal insulation works;
• you can change the appearance of your building for little money;
• the possibility of repair;
• excellent protection of the foam block from the influence of external factors.

It will also be useful to learn about how the front door is insulated with your own hands.

Of course, plaster also has disadvantages, but they can simply be minimized if you use the following simple tips:

1. When choosing a mixture, keep in mind that it is intended specifically for foam blocks.
2. The process of insulating walls from foam blocks with plaster requires some skill and experience. In addition, everything needs to be done not only qualitatively, but also quickly. This is due to the fact that the plaster sets quickly, so there is a risk of formation of joints in individual sections that will be visible.
3. Using plaster, you need to strictly follow the technology. Laying plaster should be carried out in 2 layers. In this case, the thickness of the outer layer should be 2 times less than the inner one.
4. Plaster mixtures for foam blocks are presented with a different composition. So each species has a different degree of adhesion.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how plastic windows are insulated with your own hands.

Mounting foam

This option of warming is considered one of the fastest. In addition, polyurethane foam is characterized by excellent heat conductivity. She creates excellent protection walls from frost.

Mounting foam for insulation of foam blocks

The advantages of using mounting foam include:

1. Easy to apply to base.
2. Excellent insulating qualities, sometimes acts as a waterproofing agent.

As for the minuses, the mounting foam is exposed to sunlight. The protective layer on the surface contributes to a significant consumption of material. Thus, it is simply impossible to obtain an absolutely smooth surface.

It will also be useful to learn more about how the wooden floor is insulated in a private house.

Warming process

Depending on which insulation you decide to use, it is necessary that its surface be rough. This will allow you to achieve high-quality adhesion with glue. If it is foam, then no preparatory measures need to be done. Extruded polystyrene foam needs additional energy costs. Before fixing it, it is necessary to process it with a spiked roller. If you use foam, then you need to make fire cuts between floors from non-combustible material.

On video insulation houses from foam blocks outside:

It is necessary to start warming the house from foam blocks from the outside with the preparation of slopes and low tide. The fact is that in the process of work it may turn out that it is necessary to dismantle them, and then reinstall them. But after warming, it will be unrealistic to do this.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how the wooden floor is insulated from below in a private house.

The structure of the warming cake will include the following layers:

• primer composition,
• insulation adhesive,
• thermal insulation material,
• dowel,
• reinforcing adhesive,
• alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh,
• perforated corner,
• reinforcing adhesive second layer,
• primer,
• plaster,
• primer composition,
• dye.

The process of laying the material begins with the lower area of ​​​​the wall. To do this, attach the rail. Its task is to ensure that the insulation sheets do not move during installation. Apply glue around the entire perimeter of the sheet and wall using a spatula. In this case, the glue is not applied to the entire wall, but only to the dimensions of one sheet. The sheets are laid closely so that the space between the plates does not exceed 2 mm. Some builders, in addition to glue, use dowels, performing fasteners in 5 places.

When the walls are insulated near the openings, then instead of foam, it is better to use pieces of mineral wool, the width of which is 20 cm. Remove the formed seams with foam and adhesive tape. After 3 days, the support rail can be removed. Now you can move on to reinforcing with glue and fiberglass. In this case, the grid should not be removed. Its fasteners at the joints are overlapped. Then comes the primer, plaster and paint.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how the ceiling of a private house is insulated with sawdust.

If you will be cladding with siding, then before laying the heat insulator it is necessary to build a frame, and then lay the siding on top of the insulating material. Do this so that a small gap forms between the insulation and the siding panels.

The process of insulating a house from foam blocks from the outside is such an important, responsible and uncomplicated work. Any owner who has already been able to decide on the choice of heat-insulating material can cope with them. Choose it according to the climate in your area and your personal wishes.

fasdoma.ru

Is it necessary to insulate the house of aerated concrete

First of all, you need to say a few words about the aerated concrete itself.

Material with a porous structure.

When creating blocks, use:

Aerated concrete blocks are very convenient: they can be cut (and quite easily), they weigh little, do not affect people's health, cost relatively little and have a high level of sound insulation.

But aerated concrete has a number of disadvantages:

• They are not sufficiently resistant to mechanical stress. That is, from such material it is possible to build buildings with a maximum height of 3 floors.
• The material is relatively fragile and therefore requires precise installation of the foundation and laying of the blocks themselves. Errors in laying (or installing the foundation) often lead to cracking of the material.
• Anchors should also be used as fasteners (other fasteners can lead to concrete cracking).
• Since the material is porous, it will absorb moisture well, so you need to clad or cover with a special solution.

Do I need to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 400

Now this topic is relevant among the owners of aerated concrete houses "to insulate or not to insulate their homes."

It is difficult to answer, it depends on many parameters, including the location of your house (region).

Although often the construction team insists on insulation (mandatory) to increase the cost of work.

If you want to avoid unnecessary expenses, you need to calculate how much this insulation will pay off, if it pays off in more than 100 years, then the meaning of such insulation ...

If the walls are built with high quality and the climate is mild enough, then you probably have enough simple insulation roofs (also inspect windows and doors, insulate if possible) but without external wall insulation.

So is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete?

It is necessary to insulate if your house is located in a cold climate and this will bring you benefits - that is, savings on heating.

But keep in mind one thing, aerated concrete blocks have a high level of vapor permeability and they need to be insulated in such a way that the vapor permeability decreases from the outer part of the wall to the inner one.

Insulate aerated concrete house with your own hands

Typically, blocks are insulated from the outside using one of 2 types of insulation:

• Penoplex;
• Mineral wool.

External insulation of blocks with foam

Penoplex insulation is the most profitable option (in terms of cost) and in terms of quality of insulation. Foam insulation is best done from the outside.

1. First of all, you need to prepare the surface. Since the blocks themselves are even and with a smooth surface, it is not necessary to further level the surface to the ideal.
2. If there are cracks or chips, they must be covered with plaster (or special glue)
3. Also needs to be done window slopes.
4. After plastering, the surface is coated with a primer (this creates greater adhesion).
5. After the primer has dried, you can start laying foam boards.
6. The insulation is glued to the surface with cement glue and additionally pressed with dowels.
7. And in conclusion, you need to take care of the decoration of the facade.

External insulation of blocks with stone wool

Warming of the house can also be done with stone wool, it can be used both under siding and under plaster.

If under the siding, then they install the crate using vertical guides on the outside of the house, lay the insulation in niches and cover it with a layer of vapor barrier, and fix the siding on top.

Is it possible to insulate from the inside?

Experts and craftsmen recommend insulating it from the outside, it’s not worth it inside. Since from the outside to the inside, the vapor permeability should decrease. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate in the blocks themselves, and the strength of the entire structure will decrease.

Only external insulation will help you to insulate the house and protect the structure from moisture.

The average cost for warming a house made of aerated concrete

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

stroysvoy-dom.ru

How to insulate a house from aerated concrete outside: foam or mineral wool, sequence of operations (photo, video)

How and with what to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside?

• Mineral wool for insulation of aerated concrete
• How to insulate a house from aerated concrete: a sequence of work

Thermal insulation of the house has become the standard of quality construction. Due to the popularity of porous concrete walls, the question arose: is it necessary to insulate buildings made of aerated concrete? The answer to this question depends on several factors: cellular walls, the presence of cold bridges, the region of construction and its winter temperatures. How to determine the need for insulation? What materials to properly insulate a house from aerated concrete?

Scheme of the advantages of aerated concrete.

Insulation of aerated concrete: how and when to insulate?

Insulation of aerated concrete walls is necessary in the following cases:

1. The thickness of the walls is less than the 600 mm indicated by building codes (for the regions of central and northern strips of Russia).
2. If not a special glue was used in the masonry, but a cement-sand mortar. It is a bridge of cold, so insulation is required.
3. If, in order to strengthen the bearing capacity of the walls, a reinforcing belt and a frame made of ordinary concrete were erected. Having lower heat-saving properties, concrete in the frame becomes a cold bridge. Walls need insulation.

Scheme of vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls.

It is important to know that the actual thermal conductivity of aerated concrete walls is lower than that of individual porous blocks. This is due to the presence of masonry joints, which are cold bridges. Therefore, thermal insulation of gas-block houses is necessary in almost all regions of Russia.

The best insulation the walls of the house is done from the outside. The outdoor location of the insulating material is a structurally correct solution. It is due to the fact that the dew point is shifted into the insulating material. Bearing wall remains dry, condensation forms in the insulator.

Condensation forms at the 0°C point. To remove it from the insulation, it is necessary that the insulating outer layer be porous. Which material is best suited for external thermal insulation of aerated concrete walls?

Among the common insulators (polyurethane foam and construction wool), preference in the insulation of aerated concrete walls should be given to mineral or stone wool. It is a porous material, and its porosity is higher than that of foamed aerated concrete. This is another rule of high-quality insulation: if the wall consists of several layers, then their vapor transmission capacity should increase in the direction from inside to the outside. The highest ability to pass steam and air should be at the outer layer.

It is necessary to consider the advantages of mineral wool and the features of its installation on vertical walls.