The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repairs, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can be used to process various materials, carry out metalwork, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of engine oil and other liquids that are on wooden surface may leave traces.

Also when processing metal parts often requires effort, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding work.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm

Guides for drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which they will be mounted side panels. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding power frame workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to metal frame workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. To these holes inside skids for guide boxes will be attached.

The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then, without fail, it is required to paint the entire metal structure workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach steel sheet on hidden screws wooden planks. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a locksmith's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes in the gasket for anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
3. The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal chips, oil drops and other materials.
5. If homemade workbench made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Shield plywood

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years is one of the common mistakes development of workbenches of their own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal bed.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Second, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's workbench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never sag. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

Design wooden frame a workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. Load bearing capacity will rise to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

Solid wood workbench, no need for welding work for its manufacture, you can do according to the scheme on the next. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner racks), 30x30 (other vertical details) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: they turn the lid under the carpentry wooden side up or adjust as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-separable workbench - steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure) so that as much as possible most of dynamic loads during metal processing fell vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, a jib U is placed under the cover (tabletop) from a wooden beam from 60x60 or a professional pipe from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; corks from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fitting many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When a country house or other light wooden structure is still under construction, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, hastily you can put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. At minimum flow material and extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, tk. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

This carpentry workbench has a solid frame, a solid work surface and plenty of storage space. convenient storage tools and fixtures. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will gradually add various useful additions.

Tools for the job

To process solid wood and sheet materials, you will need a tool:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electroplaner.
3. The saw is circular.
4. Grinder machine.
5. Drill and drills.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Square.
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carpenter's workbench frame

Take even pine boards without large knots with a section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for the comfortable work of a master 170–180 cm tall. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.

Table 1 - list of frame parts

	Name	Finished dimensions, mm			Material	Quantity
	leg detail
	bottom spacer
	Top spacer
	cross prog
	Cover crossbar
	Longitudinal proleg
	Longitudinal side
	Bottom shelf
	Countertop spacer

All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a board 150 mm wide at once.

file it all wooden blanks along the length, with the exception of spacers: it is more convenient to cut short ones already planed, and long ones should be sawn off later “in place”.

Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade, and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Spread the boards exactly in the middle.

Sharpen the details and finish them sandpaper medium grit.

File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces of dust, apply glue to the small prong and to the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.

Fasten the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the rest of the legs of the carpentry workbench frame.

Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the chance of wood splitting when the workbench is moved.

Prepare for gluing the joints of the legs with the longitudinal prongs. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place the halves of the frame and the longitudinal sides on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.

File the parts and fix with glue and screws.

Assemble the top frame of the carpentry workbench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling pilot holes for them.

Gather bottom harness workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.

cut out sheet material 16 mm thick lower shelf and fix it on the bars

Workbench for carpentry work

Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the plates in two layers and get a countertop with a thickness of 32–40 mm.

Drawing and arrangement of the cover of the workbench: 1 - edge strips (birch, maple); 2 - working surface (solid fiberboard); 3- carrier plate(chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For countertops, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the lid of the carpentry workbench turns out to be 670x1940 mm in size.

Place narrow slabs closer to back wall and towards the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in the top layer of the countertop. Glue the cut blanks.

Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim the edges by hand circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.

Cut the slats for the edge trims. Saw off 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Put a piece of fiberboard on top of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and fasten it all with clamps.

This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the worktop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench cover. While holding the plank with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.

Move the fixture to the other side and install the remaining pads. Process the planks with a grinder.

Drill a hole in the corner of the board so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of the recess when replacing it.

Clean the surfaces of dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with wood stain. Lay the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, then fix them with double sided tape. Install a carpenter's vise on the workbench.

Drawers for storing tools in the carpenter's table

When filling the space under the cover of the carpentry workbench, use the modular principle. Individual blocks are easier to make and more convenient to later change when space is needed for a new tool. There will be a certain overspending of material, but the mass of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.

Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 - full extension drawer; 2 - roomy plywood box; 3 - container made of chipboard; 4 - wide box; 5 - compartment for portable toolbox; 6 - a place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Pick up boxes that are suitable in size from an unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.

Sign the wooden elements and carefully pull them apart. Clean the spikes and lugs from the glue.

Cut the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on the circular saw.

Assemble the box "dry", adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting brackets to accurately assemble right angles.

When the glue dries, sand the corners and sides of the drawer, securing it for ease of use.

Prepare the guide rails and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Block calculation for three drawers

File the bottom, top and side panels. Fasten the guide rails with screws.

Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, placing props under it.

Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten self-tapping screws. Fasten the chipboard to the top rails and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front pads on the drawers. Having marked the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the rest of the screws.

Fasten the remaining overlays - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable drawer

The middle module is made to the full height of the workbench to increase the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the case, take a chipboard 16 mm thick and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.

Housing of the middle module: 1 - frame diagram; 2- side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the guide rails to the sidewalls, assemble the frame with screws and install close to the right block.

Prepare the details for the drawer.

Drawings of the elements of the box: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - rail.

With a circular saw, select the grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts. Move the rip fence 2 mm and make a trial cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the blanks.

Assemble the module and install rails on the bottom to protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a more “smooth” ride.

Fasten the front panel with screws and put the drawer in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The arrangement of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The drawer placed on roller guides is manufactured taking into account the mounting clearance, so its width will be 26 mm less than the internal size of the case (for common rails with a thickness of 12 mm).

The device of the module and the details of the box: 1 - assembly diagram; 2 - back and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the housing, fasten the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides.

Scheme of mounting guides on the walls of the case.

Fix the finished module under the cover of the workbench.

To install the rails on the drawer, unsnap the latches and pull out the small rails.

Fasten the pieces to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and a gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull out the middle rails as far as they will go.

Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, take it out and try again.

Put the front cover in place.

How to make a drawer for a carpentry workbench from plywood

Saw the blanks of the box body from 10 mm plywood, and for the bottom take a sheet 5 mm thick.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - back insert; 3 - side wall; 4 - front insert.

Process the blanks with a grinder.

Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Glue and screw the parts of the front and back walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.

Assemble the structure using corners and clamps.

Fasten the parts with screws, drilling pilot holes.

Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.

Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.

Finish the drawers and the cut ends of the chipboard with a finishing compound.

Power up your DIY workbench and start filling containers with tools.

It's no secret that a well-equipped workplace is the key to successful plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main subject in the garage or workshop, around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Purchase finished product V trading network can cost a lot of money, so it's better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in strict accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.

Workbench with your own hands. How to do?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, consider the number and location of drawers, etc.

Necessary tools and materials

To make your own workbench, you need to prepare the following tools:

• electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
• joiner's square;
• roulette;
• bubble level;
• set of wrenches.
• When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
• bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
• two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
• boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
• bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
• washers and nuts;
• self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.

DIY workbench drawings

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fastened in such a way as to obtain a rectangular frame. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.

Workbench made of wood with your own hands. Photo

Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.

To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.

To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, OSB sheets or plywood cut parts for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made for the support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the tabletop.

To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench workbench, be sure to use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, bubble level check its horizontal position. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.

Small workbench for home DIY

The design of the locksmith workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate locksmith and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in a corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.

tabletop small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that 18 mm thick plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.

Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

• a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. You can buy a ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
• screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
• spanners;
• good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
• plywood 18mm thick;
• wooden beam 40x60 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If it is not possible to purchase a quality tool, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then the rule checks the plane plywood sheets, in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.

The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that a lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use to connect wooden parts PVA furniture glue It has no time limits and allows the application of a simple paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay them on three boards bottom sheet, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.

Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.

When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to next step making a workbench with your own hands.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the joints, since if the geometry of the structure deviates from the right angle, the geometry of the structure will be violated. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.

You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. Choosing a recess for the head of the hardware pen drill, ensure the aesthetics of the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage

The workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability, which are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:

• angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
• welding machine;
• building level;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver;
• measuring tool.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings

Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be bought in the construction market. You will need:

• steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
• profile pipe 60x40x2;
• steel strip 40x4 mm;
• steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
• boards 50 mm thick;
• 15mm plywood and drawer rails;
• metal screws and bolts.

Also, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

cutting material. A profile pipe is cut into the frame. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the tabletop. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.

Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To reinforce the frame, pieces of steel pipes are welded every 400 mm as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. Photo

Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.

On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.

Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.

From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a power crate is equipped vertical bar for the tool.

The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sidewalls of the frame.

All welds and sharp corners go through a grinder with a roughing wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush nozzle.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

The upper steel sheet is treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, it is attached to a wooden table top with self-tapping screws.

They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.

After the workbench is made, install a vice and more necessary equipment, attach hooks to accommodate the tool.

What is a workbench

The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds work on metal and wood in a short period of time. Here are stored various tools and small details. In simple terms, it is a special table on which you can make turning and locksmith products.

In addition to the countertop, there may be multi-layer structures of shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.

Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. In the process of creation, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.

Self-manufacturing such a structure will save a decent amount. Besides, individual project helps to make a design based on the parameters of your premises.

Workbench Varieties

There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristics. In turn, they are divided into:

Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of such a product is made of high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for security. Sparks may be present during iron work.

In addition, the use of lubricants can leave marks on the wooden surface. The iron base does not require special care.

Joiner's. Its surface is made up of solid wood. A carpenter's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.

The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The drawing of the workbench shows the arrangement of the carpentry work area.

What is included in the design of the workbench?

If the product is made independently, then it is important to think over every little thing. Additional shelves and capacious hanging containers will help to rationally use this product. The standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.

Homemade table can have both metal and wooden system storage. An additional metal shield allows you to store small hanging tools here. Now hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.

How to make a workbench with your own hands?

We bring to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. Manufacturing carpenter's table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.

For this you will need:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
• joiner's square;
• level;
• bolts;
• nuts;
• self-tapping screws;
• detailed drawing of the product;
• wrench.

From the materials you need to prepare:

• bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. During the selection process, it is necessary to give Special attention the condition of the wood. There should not be cracks and knots;
• plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
• frame boards.

When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the workflow. It includes the following steps:

The initial action will be the construction of the lower frame, in which the tools and the bench will be located. To do this, the boards are sawn off to the desired level. Then they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.

A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future, it will reduce the resistance of the finished product during the workflow, you will need a small wooden board.

The support legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make from 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.

To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a lower shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Next, long ones are attached here. wooden planks. In the future, they will fix on their surface chipboard panel. She will act as the foundation.

When the main part of the frame is completed, proceed to install the top countertop. Here you will need a hacksaw. It removes the redundant parts of the board.

Protect surface wooden tabletop hardboard will help. This durable material, which is designed for the work area.

You can increase the storage system with the help of an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. Through holes are made in the supporting boards. After that, the metal base is fixed with bolts. In the photo of the workbench with your own hands, the sequence of each action is captured.

DIY workbenches photo