Leakage of water from the water supply can have very serious consequences. We will learn details about protective systems that you can create with your own hands.
In a country house, especially not intended for permanent residence, a leak from the water supply can have very serious consequences. There are many ready-made solutions on the market for protective systems, however, today we will talk about building a leakage protection scheme on our own.
General description of the system
There are two main topologies of leak protection systems. The main difference between them is the way the signal is transmitted between the sensor, controller and actuators. Systems using wired transmission are simpler and more reliable, but it is not always convenient to use them when the places of possible leaks are far from each other, when the signal may not be recognized by the controller due to the considerable length of the cable.
In turn, wireless systems do not require cabling, so that decorative finishes will not be disturbed during installation, but such protection is more expensive.
In wired systems, the connection between the leakage sensor and the controller is carried out via a three-wire wire. In addition, actuators are connected to the control output of the controller: electric shut-off valves, light and sound signaling devices. If desired, the scheme can be supplemented with communication devices to alert the user through a mobile or home wireless network.
Schematic diagram of protection against water leaks: 1 - control unit; 2 - radio module; 3 - spherical electric drive; 4 - inlet taps; 5 - wire sensors; 6 - radio sensors
The main difference between the wireless system is that a radio communication module is installed together with the flood sensor. This does not require a wired connection between the controller and the sensor, however, the leak detector itself and the transmitter need a stabilized power supply from an external unit or a battery.
Shut-off valves can also be controlled by radio, but often this is not required, because it is much easier to install the controller next to the actuator.
Controller selection
The brain of the system is the electronic control unit. Its main function is to accurately recognize the change in the signal level from the sensor and apply voltage to the actuator. At the same time, it is important that the controller has the function of recovering from emergency mode after the cause of the leak has been eliminated.
As you can see, the logic of the controller is quite simple, and therefore even the simplest devices, including handicraft ones, can be used. In general, there are three options.
Relay modules are the simplest class of control devices for connecting one or two sensors. There are a number of disadvantages: the lack of state retention when the power is turned off, the need to convert the signal from the sensor to the correct level and provide the circuit with a manual reset shunt to hold in the emergency mode.
However, this is the most budgetary option for building a circuit. Suitable solutions include Omron relay modules and Arduino expansion boards, as well as more expensive programmable relays such as OWEN PR110 for connecting up to 12 sensors.
Programmable relay OWEN PR110
Programmable logic controllers are the most versatile type of control devices that allow implementing more complex algorithms for the operation of a leakage protection system and interconnecting them with other automation systems.
For the same purpose, cheap single-board computers such as Arduino can be used, with the help of which functions such as forced draining of water from the washing machine tank can be implemented.
One of the channels of a home automation or fire alarm controller can be used to connect a flood sensor. The only problem is that the type or level of the signal at the output of the sensor does not match, so it often becomes necessary to supplement the circuit with an amplifier or a single-channel discrete converter.
An example of a leakage protection circuit on Arduino
The simplest control device can also be made by hand from common electronic components. Amplification of the signal from the sensor can be implemented on transistors marked Logic Level (IRL series), which use very low voltages (about 2–3 V) for control and are capable of switching up to 20 A of load current.
A 300-500 ohm pull-up resistor is installed between the gate and source to prevent accidental operation. It is desirable to supplement the circuit: limit the control signal with a zener diode to 50–70% of the maximum gate-source voltage, and also provide a shunt with a voltage divider between the source and gate to hold the key in the open state.
It is necessary to install an emergency reset button in the shunt circuit break. Such a circuit can have an almost unlimited number of transistors and, accordingly, control a number of actuators and indicators.
Leak sensors
The leak detector has a simple, if not primitive device. Its two main elements are a pair of electrodes, when wet, which closes the circuit, as well as a signal amplifier, which is usually a bipolar transistor with a low saturation current.
The sensor is powered by two wires, the third alarm signal is transmitted to the control unit. Some sensors have built-in sound and light alarms, and a galvanically isolated switch in the form of a relay can be installed in one housing to supply power directly to the actuator.
The most common, primarily due to their low cost (about 500 rubles / piece), are considered to be the sensors "H2O Contact", "Aquarius-R" and Equation.
They have several versions for connection both to analog inputs of control devices and to inputs of the "dry contact" type in normally open and normally closed states. The detectors have a built-in signal indication, but their main drawback is that they are not capable of switching a significant load, that is, they cannot directly control the valves.
More advanced, but also more expensive (from 1.5 to 2.5 thousand rubles) sensors - Ajax LeaksProtect, Ezviz T10, Neptun RSW + and other wireless devices. As a rule, these detectors are powered by a Krona battery; for some models, the battery life can be up to two years.
Most of the detectors are designed to work as part of the protection system of the same manufacturer, for some the operating frequency is indicated and it is possible to configure it for connection to universal radio receivers. A certain part of autonomous models works in the alarm mode - emits a sound signal or sends a notification via mobile communications when a leak is detected.
In everyday life, not individual sensors, but kits for mounting leak protection systems have gained the greatest popularity. They can include up to three sensors, one or two electric valves, a power supply and a central control unit. Similar kits are supplied to the market under the trademarks Neptun, Akvastor and Gidrolock.
Water leakage protection system "Aquastorage Classic 2x20"
Executive and auxiliary devices
The third element of the system is a device that shuts off the water supply when a leak is detected. For this purpose, either motorized ball valves or electromechanical valves are used.
Ball valves with a motor are controlled by a three-wire circuit, so they can often only be used in systems controlled by a full-fledged controller, because in addition to the closing signal, an opening signal must be given when the system is restored to its original state. However, the signal to open can be given through the reverse contact of the relay or manually through the button - a kind of replacement for resetting the alarm.
Electromechanical valves of normally open type act once when a control signal is applied and block the flow. In this case, the voltage on the control channel can remain indefinitely, because during operation the circuit is opened by a contact group mechanically connected to the valve stem.
It must be remembered that it is the normally open valve that, after the protection is triggered, remains in this position even in the event of a power failure and is cocked manually after the leakage has been eliminated.
Solenoid valve for water
Actuators do not have to be specialized; any taps or valves for plumbing systems will do. However, you need to pay attention to the operating voltage range, because some relay modules cannot control direct current, and the switching outputs of the controllers can only work with limited voltage and current.
Auxiliary devices may also be present in the circuit:
- Radio communication modules - a set of transmitter and receiver, for example, the MX series at 433 MHz, will allow you to create a wireless connection between the sensor and the control unit, using equipment designed to build systems with wired communication.
- Signal amplifiers and modulators are designed to match the logic levels between the sensors and the control unit. As amplifiers, single-board modules based on the LM358 chip are most popular, for signal conversion - modular DAC / ADC based on PCF8591.
- Intermediate relays will be useful if the relay group of the control unit does not allow switching currents of significant magnitude. The most preferred relays are designed for low control voltage - 24 or 36 V.
Circuit assembly and installation
There is no difficulty in installing a leak protection system if a ready-made kit is used: all elements are fully compatible, the connectors fit together, there is a detailed instruction. Assemblies of an individual configuration are more difficult to implement, so we will consider the topology of a protection system with two sensors and wireless communication.
The “H2O Contact” will be used as a flood sensor in a four-wire version with a normally open contact. Brown (+) and white (-) wires are connected to a power source - a 9 V battery. One of the remaining wires is connected to the power plus, the other to the TX DATA pin of the MX-FS-03V radio transmitter.
Solder 10-15 cm of copper wire coiled into a spiral to the ANT pad on the transmitter board. The sensor is attached with screws or double-sided tape, the electrodes must be firmly pressed to the floor. The wire from the sensor runs along the wall to a small plastic case that houses the radio transmitter and power supply.
Wiring diagram for a leak protection system with two sensors and wireless communication
The radio receiver MX-05V is installed near the control device, which will be used as a programmable relay module FRM01. The RX terminal of the radio receiver is connected to the IN input of the LM358 amplifier module, the GND and VCC terminals are connected to the negative and positive 5V power supply.
The amplifier module also needs 12V power through the VCC and GND terminals. The output from the amplifier module is connected to the input terminal of the relay module IN, which is also connected to a 12V power supply (the circuit is reverse polarity protected).
As an actuator, it is recommended to use a ball valve NT9047 with a supply voltage of 24 V, which is installed at the inlet of the water main. The neutral wire of the tap is connected to the minus of the power source, the wire of the closing contact is connected to the normally open output of the relay, the opening one is connected to the normally closed one.
The relay must be configured according to the instructions - set function number 10. As you can see, the entire assembly requires three voltage levels for operation, which is solved by purchasing several cheap power supplies for 5, 12 and 24 V, the latter with a current of up to 2 A.
Emergencies, when water fills the whole house, can happen to anyone. A special alarm system can prevent flooding. The sensor works to determine the problem and block the sources of water supply to an apartment or house.
Then it can happen in any house or apartment. The reasons may be a pipe break or a drain problem. In this case, not only plumbing and furniture in the house may suffer, but also the apartment on the floor below. A water leak sensor will help prevent an unpleasant situation.
Flood alarms work much more simply than other sensors. The system is fast enough, it will help not only to identify problems, but also to shut off the water. This option is good when the owners are away from home.
Reasons for the flood:
- Leaking tub or sink drain
- Broken water supply pipe;
- Clogged drain, which leads to obstruction of the drain and overflow of water over the edge of the plumbing;
- Pipe burst when liquid spurts like a fountain;
- Breakage of heating pipes.
Problems with the heating system are especially dangerous when it comes to the central system. Water moves through pipes with high pressure and has a high heating temperature. Even when the owners are at home, it is very difficult to stop the hot flow.
In just a few minutes, a house can pour 5 cubic meters of hot liquid.
In this case, it will be necessary to urgently shut off the coolant supply. But, in order not to endanger your life, it is easier to install a flood sensor. He does not panic, unlike people, and regularly performs his duties.
One of the causes of a sudden flood may be water hammer in the pipeline. The reasons, consequences and methods of protection are described in the article:.
The principle of operation of the Anti-Flood system and its classification
The operation of the system lies in the difference between the electrical conductivity of water and air. In the design of any sensor there is a pair of electrodes. When liquid enters them, the resistance decreases and the circuit closes.
Information is decoded on the controller. Next, the controller signals the closing of the solenoid valve. It is installed at the entrance to the riser.
The closing period lasts from 2 to 30 seconds. This is affected by the type of system selected.
The inlet valve will be stopped in operation until the cause of the leak is found. After setting up the controller, the system will return to its original form. The stationary signaling device works autonomously. Only if there is a problem will you need to intervene in the system.
Classification of the "Antipot" system:
- Over the number of electric cranes;
- Behind the method of informing about the problem;
- Behind the option of data exchange between the sensor and the controller.
Normally, the number of electric cranes is at least two. This is due to the installation of sensors for hot and cold water. But if desired, the number of taps can be increased.
Water leakage alarm circuit
You can use different versions of the system from leaks. The most popular are Neptune, Aquawatch, Ardvino and Gidrolock. They work on the same principle. Devices are installed on ball mixers with an electric drive. The safety elements not only shut off the water, but also signal the user that there is a problem with sound or light. These mechanisms get along well with the "smart home" system.
Leak sensor circuit elements:
- Controller;
- Water leakage sensor;
- Ball valve with electric drive.
The controller is used to decode the signal that comes from the sensors and the drive voltage. The element feeds the rest of the structure and signals a problem. The controller can be mounted anywhere. The main thing is that water does not get on the device.
The leakage sensor reacts to moisture and sends a signal to the controller. To connect it, only safe power sources are used so that there are no emergencies when the plates are accidentally touched. It is mounted in places of probable leaks: next to plumbing.
Operation of the sensor includes wiping the plates with a damp sponge once every three months. This is a preventive measure.
Ball valves are used to block the operation of a water supply or heating system. Protective measures will be carried out until the unpleasant situation is eliminated, when the outflow of fluid is ensured. The installation of the device takes place after the water valves. Installation should be carried out by professionals, as the connection requires the use of a special power cable.
Installing a flood sensor from the manufacturer
Collecting the protection system is not difficult. The control box is mounted on the wall. Then the batteries are mounted. If necessary, make a power supply.
Sensor locations:
- Under the bath or shower;
- Under the sink and toilet;
- Under washing machines and dishwashers;
- Behind the radiators
- Immediately at the point of entry and installation of the counter.
Then the signal cable is laid. Next, connect the sensors to the controller. If the system is wireless, then the action is performed with each sensor.
The ball valve is installed at the hot and cold water inlet points. It is also provided at the inlet of each riser or at the outlet of the boiler, if the system is autonomous. connected to the control unit. Everyone is given their own number and program.
This completes the installation process. You can safely go on vacation without fear of flooding your neighbors. The system is quite reliable, there is no doubt about its effectiveness.
The nuances of the location of the water sensor on the floor
There are many options for using sensors. There are many tasks that a small device can handle. But the system itself is quite simple.
Purposes of using sensors:
- Bathroom flood detection;
- Preventing leaks in basements where there is a high level of groundwater;
- Control of kitchen plumbing;
- Installation in areas where there is a high risk of flooding of houses;
- Elimination of problems with leakage of the heating system.
Installation of sensors takes place in the most dangerous places. These are corners under plumbing, batteries. But at the same time, accidental ingress of water on the device should be minimized. Otherwise, the signaling device will work constantly for no reason.
Small leaks at pipe joints can be repaired with special sealants. What are the sealants, and how to use them, you will learn from our material:.
Do-it-yourself water leakage sensor assembly
Thanks to a simple mechanism, you can build a wired sensor with your own hands. The leak detector consists of simple elements that can be at hand. You may have to buy something, but the cost of the device is still petty. It should be understood that a home-made system only signals problems, it cannot shut off the water.
Necessary materials for work:
- 3 V battery - CR1632 device is used;
- Transistor BC816 or BC517 with NPN composite;
- 1-2 MΩ resistor;
- Piezo emitter complete with generator;
- Plastic bottle.
The assembly process provides step by step instructions. First you need to familiarize yourself with the design scheme. Next, the resistor is soldered to the piezo emitter. Then the transistor is connected. The circuit is connected to the batteries using blue electrical tape.
Such an aquaguard will only work if water gets on the hull. Therefore, the battery will last a long time.
To create the case, you will need a large bottle, from which the neck is cut off. The bottom is made on one side of the bottle, which is fixed with glue. You will need to make 2 holes to insert the housing. Holes for the piezo are also made in the lid. We screw the cap on the neck and check the performance of the system.
The water leakage sensor is a reliable protection against flooding in the house. By turning it on and off, you can control its operation. The mechanism itself may differ depending on the manufacturer, but the main elements remain unchanged. Interestingly, a primitive sensor can be built on its own. For this, you do not need to have special knowledge and materials.
The third of which says that the robot must take care of its safety to the extent that this does not contradict the First and Second Laws. Those. one of the tasks of a smart home is to take care of its safety, to prevent break-ins, fires, floods, and other damage. We'll talk about protection against leaks and flooding today.
Aquawatch is a system that automatically shuts off the water when flooding is detected. A pipe has burst - water splashes onto the floor, hits the sensor, and the servo drive shuts off the taps on the risers. Of course, this will not save you from wet floors - some of the water will still end up on the floor, but the repair will secure it, and at the same time it will protect the neighbors below from compensation after flooding. Let's see, let's disassemble the Aquaguard system into parts and find out if it is so good?
Controller
The whole set is in this box: The kit is shown in front, and the principle of operation of the system is shown on the side: 
There is also a good and understandable written user manual: 
The main part of the system looks like this: 
Two taps - for cold and hot water, main control unit, flood sensors, external power supply.
Here is the main unit (TK03) closer: 
The controller is made very interesting - it is assembled as a constructor, into which additional extension blocks are inserted. Missing 6 wire sensors? We add a panel, we get 18 sensors. Want to make a wireless system out of a conventional system? We insert the radio base and connect it to a special connector. Need the ability to turn off the heating or pump when the water is turned off? We connect the panel with power relays. Not enough standard battery pack? We insert another one, we extend the autonomous operation of the system for another year (if the system has only wired sensors, then for three years).
The entire system, except for wired sensors, has a 4-year warranty. Sensors have a lifetime warranty. True, they promise a free replacement of no more than 3 sensors per user, apparently guided by the consideration "if a person breaks 3 sensors in a row, then the problem is not in the sensors."
There are four sensors in my version - two wired, and two radio sensors. The system can simultaneously work with both. The maximum number of wireless sensors is 8 (2 included), or 20 with an expander panel (TK19). The number of wired sensors is practically unlimited - up to 100 pieces can be connected to each connector, in total - as many as 600 pieces.
There is a page on the site that describes all possible components with article numbers - in the future I will give them in brackets for convenience.
A very interesting solution. Here is the block connection mechanism, on one side of the latch: 
On the other - a place for wires that connect the blocks to each other: 
We disassemble. Although it is difficult to call it disassembly - we just pull the board out of the slots: 
Controller, squeaker (very loud and nasty): 
Two ionistors for 20F: 
And one for 10: 
These are the same Nano-UPS :) 
But in fact, it’s right - they store a supply of energy, which is enough to operate the device and shut off the taps after the batteries are completely dead. In general, if an accident occurs, the system will work and shut off the water even with dead batteries. After that, you can still open the taps once with the button if you urgently need water, and there is no time to run after the batteries - this moment is thought out, which is nice. But after that, the batteries will have to be replaced.
Below on the board are 14 connectors, one of which is for the battery pack, one for connecting the blocks, 6 for wired sensors, and 6 for taps. As I already wrote - there can be an almost unlimited number of wired sensors - they can be connected in parallel to each other. True, when using a sensor with break control, it must be the last in the chain - otherwise the controller will not notice the break after it.
Cranes
Here are two taps(TK12): 
On each - a strict piece of paper :)
We disassemble the crane into two parts:
Crane side:
A serious metal gear closing a ball valve. In the first versions, it was plastic, but they fixed this shortcoming. From the engine side:
Also a metal gear of the gearbox output shaft (a device that reduces the rotation speed and increases the force). Everything looks serious. Cranes, by the way, are also special - with low friction, to make it easier to turn the crane with a small engine. It closes really easily - you can turn your finger without really straining. Other systems have faucets with a motor that is powered by 220v, but there is another problem - safety and the inability to turn off the faucet when the power goes out. And according to Murphy's law, electricity will be cut down at the most inopportune moment. So I'd rather pay a little more for a faucet with a low voltage motor.
Sensor
Wired flood sensor (TK24), as simple as two pennies: 
Wire, case, and fiberglass plate with two contacts. The contacts get wet - the resistance decreases, the controller understands this and shuts off the water. There is nothing to break here - the contacts are covered with immersion gold, which means they will not oxidize or rot.
Contact pads:
This is a "premium" sensor, and in simple terms - with wire break protection. The problem is that for the controller, a failed “normal” sensor and a sensor whose wire was cut off are the same thing. Protection against this is a simple capacitor:
It conducts alternating current, and by its presence the controller can already determine three states - a short circuit (flood), no short circuit (sensor in place), and no contact (wire break).
The sensor is very simple, and if you have straight arms, you can make them as much as you like for your needs - even a PCB LUT, even from two strips of a tin can and wire. Just take care of protection against splashes - otherwise one day during the shower you will be forced to get out of the bath and explain to the controller that this is not a flood, but just a drop fell :) But I'm talking about a home-made sensor - for "branded" the case design provides protection from accidental splashes . In addition, they will only work if the water level reaches 1mm over the entire area of the sensor - this is approximately 10-15ml of water.
Radio base and sensors
An additional unit (TK17), which adds several wireless sensors to the usual sensors. There are two of them in the kit, but you can buy and add 6 more - they are tied to this block. And another 12 sensors are connected to the expansion unit (TK19). As a result, the total number of wireless sensors is 20 pieces. I don't know why so many, except for some big cottage.
The radio base board has its own personal ionistor so as not to waste the energy of the main board on servicing radio sensors.
Controller, and one more tweeter:
And here are the radio sensors: 
The right one is just a sensor (TK16) and the left one is a remote control sensor (TK18). Buttons can be used to close and open taps at any time.
On the reverse side of both sensors, we already know a board with contacts: 
The sensor is disassembled quite simply - you need to take turns prying off the central part from all sides with a flat screwdriver. It is held very firmly - as I understand it, it is made from the penetration of water. 
By the way, a sensor with a button is the same as a sensor without a button, only with a button: 
So if your hands itch and the soldering iron heats up, you can attach a button - I checked that the contacts work.
On the reverse side of the board - contacts for batteries (2xAAA): 
Controller, harness and tweeter: 
Assembly
We begin to assemble the system according to our requirements. Adding a second battery pack: 
Simply insert the wires into the empty sockets of the connector:
And connect the two blocks together:
We take the radio base:
Turn off the additional sensor unit and connect the radio base:
Connecting batteries:
And putting it all together:
Constructor. By the way, we forgot to connect the taps and the wired sensor. And external power, if necessary - when using it, battery power is not wasted, and wireless sensors are polled constantly. When using battery power, the reaction to pressing a button on the wireless sensor or flooding it follows with a small delay - from 1 to 5 seconds.
Installation
First, we do the simplest thing - we fasten the mounting panel with two screws: 
And we hang a controller on it:
We disassemble the cranes:
I did this for ease of installation on an already finished system, because the engine protruded too much - it was not very convenient to mount.
We wrap the thread of the tap with fumlent:
We turn off the water, and we think where to insert the tap, so much so as not to call a plumber to rebuild the entire system?
I have some free space after the counter - where the check valve is. Look at the bottom pipe (I did not remove the process of installing a hot water tap):
We unscrew what you have unscrewed. We see a free thread - we wrap it with fumlent :)
We screw the valve onto the faucet:
And we wind this whole structure back onto the counter.
We cut off the connecting pipe - the crane took its place, why not move all the other pipes for the sake of it?
And install in place:
We fasten the engine into place and put the wires in order:
We simply put radio sensors in places of possible flooding: 
We lead the wire through a hole in the wall (it was necessary to cut the wire, and then connect it with): 
We lower the wire down: 
We fasten the platform to the floor, install the sensor itself: 
And close the lid: 
The sensors are located around the apartment like this: 
One is under the sink, the other is under the washing machine. Wired sensor - under the bathroom. The plan was drawn in SweetHome 3D
Connect the wires to the controller: 
Green - sensor. In the first connector (it is signed as zero) - only the sensor (or a chain of sensors) is turned on without wire break control. The rest of the connectors are sensors with open circuit monitoring.
Blue arrow - tap connectors. There is no difference, they all close and open the same way. Lilac and yellow - external and battery power, respectively. Blue - expansion board connector (we have a radio base connected to it).
In general, the system after installation looks like this: 
It remains only to comb the wires so that they do not hang over your head.
Examination
I did not break the pipe, but I had to figure out a small flood in the bathroom: Price
You can buy the system on the official website.The price depends on the kit, for example, the cheapest one (TH00) will cost you 6,220 rubles. It includes two wired sensors and one faucet. An additional crane (TK12) is another 2,390 rubles. Thus, the most budget solution for an apartment with hot and cold water is 8610 rubles.
The version of the system that I had will cost 15,990 rubles. Includes two cranes, and four sensors - two wired and two radios.
Links
Review from Official site
offsite mirror
System suppliers in Belarus
Overview of the old version of the system from DataLab
Discussion on IXBT
If you do not have an account on Habrahabr, you can read and comment on our articles on the site
Many people are familiar with the problem of water leaks in apartments. Due to a damaged faucet or a burst hose, you have to throw away a lot of money for apartment repairs. I propose to make a homemade product from available materials using a conventional tool.
The inventor of the water leakage protection system, Rudik Alexander Vladimirovich, has been successfully using this system for more than a year.
According to the author: this invention has already once saved my apartment from flooding.
I made and installed the system myself. During the manufacture, about 10 dollars (300 Russian rubles) and 30 hours of working time were spent on materials.
There are 4 ball valves in my apartment. It would take more than 20,000 rubles to equip such an apartment with Neptune or Hydroloc leakage protection (this is together with the installation).
So the benefit is clear. My system does the same as "Neptune" or "Hydroloc" (stops the water supply to the apartment when it appears on the floor) and is not inferior to them in reliability and efficiency.
The principle of operation of a homemade device
We put a mechanism on the floor (remotely resembling a mousetrap), connected by a cable to a ball valve.
When water gets on the sensitive element (paper tape), it breaks. After that, the spring, compressing, pulls the cable, which, in turn, shuts off the tap.
This system uses ball valves already installed (nothing new is needed).
The system allows you to shut off the water in the usual way (manually). We turn the handle to the side, and the cables remain motionless.
The photo shows two cables: the first goes to the sensor in the toilet, the second - in the bathroom.
When water hits the floor in one of the rooms, a sensor is triggered, a spring pulls a cable that pulls the ball valve handle and shuts off the water supply to the apartment.
Requirements for a homemade water leakage protection system
The photo shows that some elements are made of stainless steel (for more durable work and better slippage).
After triggering the mechanism, wipe it from moisture with a napkin, only then fill in a fresh tape. Cables must not have more than one 90 degree bend and no more than 2 meters in length.
The ball valve and the sensor can be located in different rooms (they are connected by a cable passing through a hole in the wall).
Pipes for supplying water to the apartment must be metal (when attaching the bracket to the pipe), and the ball valve must be yellow (others of poor quality)
Materials and tools
In the manufacture, a common tool was used:
Hammer,
Electric drill,
Bulgarian or hacksaw for metal,
Screwdriver,
Pliers.
Necessary materials:
stainless steel
regular iron,
Spring,
cables,
wooden block,
sheet of paper,
Stationery buttons.
Manufacturing
The base is a wooden block (length-360mm, width-50mm, height-25-30mm), one short end has an angle of 93 degrees. Parts No. 3,4,5, cable, spring are placed on the base.
The sensor (sensitive element) is a strip of paper cut out from a student's notebook, attached to the bottom of the base with several buttons.
In the manufacture of part No. 3, an oak bar 150x20x50mm was used. All the bends were made around it, and then the bar was taken out and cuts were made by the grinder for attaching the cable.
Parts 3 and 4 must be made of stainless steel (at least the shaded area of these parts must be made of stainless steel)
For better slippage of part No. 4. Part 3 is better to try to make from cardboard first. The places of bends are shown by red lines.
In the manufacture of part No. 1, a problem arises - an expanded hole with a diameter of 6 mm.
I solved it in the following way - I drilled one hole, put a six screw into it from the inside. The screw must completely cover the hole. After that, a second hole is drilled (the screw and the part are drilled at the same time). The damaged screw is thrown away, the burrs are cleaned with a needle file.
Parts 4, 4a, 4b, the spring are twisted together with one screw from below (a cable is threaded into the grooves of parts 4a and 4b beforehand).
Adjusting a homemade system to protect against water leaks
In the manufacture and adjustment of the system, it is desirable to use a device - a piece of pipe more than 20 cm long with a thread with a ball valve screwed onto it.
On this device, you can check the operation of the entire mechanism not at home, but in a garage, workshop, or show the operation of the system to your friends. The device is also useful when drilling holes for connecting parts No. 2 and 2a.
To do this, you need to clamp these parts in a vice with a fixture pipe previously inserted between them. The handle of the ball valve (part No. 1 and No. 1a) must be in the closed position, and the slots for the cable in the handle and part No. 2 must match. After that, holes are drilled simultaneously in parts No. 2 and No. 2a.
There are two holes in part No. 5: the first is for the finger (when we tighten the spring), the second is for the hook. Part number 5, you can adjust the tension of the spring by twisting it in turns.
The base (wooden block 360 x 50 x 25) can be made longer, and after adjusting, cut off the excess part of the bar. The length of my base is matched to a specific spring.
In the extended state, the spring force is about 10 kilograms, at the end of actuation 4.5 kg.
Main condition: a constant force of 1 to 1.5 kilograms must act on the paper tape (to change this force, you need to decrease or increase the angle). For measurement, you can use household spring scales.
I bought a spring at a hardware store (door spring), cut it into three parts.
A water leak sensor is an affordable way to avoid the unexpected costs of repairing pipe breaks and plumbing failures. The device fixes the emergency situation and within a few seconds transmits information to the control controller, which blocks the valves with an electromechanical valve at the riser inlets.
Complete set of water leakage sensor.
The principle of operation of the anti-leakage system
The principle of operation of protective circuits is based on the ability of water to conduct electricity. When the liquid hits the electrodes fixed in the sensors, the electrical circuit is closed, and the impulse is sent to the controller, which processes the information and sends a signal to close the shut-off valves. After the cause of the leak is eliminated, the control device is rebooted and the operation of the complex is restored.
Classification of leakage protection systems
Alarms of this type are grouped according to a number of features:
- number of taps;
- the form of information exchange between the determinants and the controller;
- leak notification method.
According to the standard, the kit includes 2 ball valves that are installed on the risers, if the client wishes, the number of devices can be added. You can buy all kinds of flood protection systems in the online store of the KVANTA + company.
Scheme of the water leakage system. Model types by notification method
The leak reporting scheme may include:
- indication on the screen of the control device;
- color and noise signals;
- sound alarm combined with indicator pulses and sending a message.
To do this, the device must be equipped with a GSM transmitter. The information comes in the form of an SMS message to the subscriber's number entered into the device's memory. If the anti-leakage system is connected to the Internet, it becomes possible to send messages using GRPS technology.
Wired and wireless sensors
The signal from the leak detectors to the controller comes through electric cables or via radio channels.
Based on this, there are 2 types of protective complexes:
- In the first case, the models have a minimum voltage level of up to 5 W, which is caused by the need to protect the home security system from errors when turned on. Under the influence of humidity, the voltage in the circuit decreases, and the current strength increases.
- A transmitter is installed in the wireless sensor, which captures changes in the electromagnetic field in the circuit. When the allowable level is exceeded, it creates a signal that is relayed by the controller's receiver. Each manufacturer develops its own signal modulation scheme, so such detectors cannot be used in other “anti-leakage” devices.
The structure of the combined water leakage protection system. Standard equipment of the protective system
The standard outline includes:
- Ball valves with electric drive, designed to block pipeline lines in the event of an accident. In the configuration of such popular systems as Neptune or Aquastorage, ball elements with a valve are used, the size of which can be ½, ¾ and 1″. Devices installed after the inlet valves not only close them, but also report an emergency. The disadvantage is the need to install them on both cold and hot water.
- The controller is a control module that closes the ball valves after receiving and converting the sensor pulse, and also informs the owners about the presence of leaks. The device panel displays information about the status of the meters and the level of charge of their batteries. The block is mounted in any accessible place.
- Autonomous and volatile sensors. Install them where there is a risk of water leakage.
Elements included in the structure of the water leakage protection system. Rules for the installation of a flood protection system
The protective circuit is a constructor, the elements of which are interconnected by special connectors. Ease of assembly ensures quick installation and integration with Smart Home systems. Before installation, they draw up a layout of the individual parts and check that the length of the wires matches the distance that will be required to connect the meters and taps to the controller.
The order of work includes:
- marking mounting points;
- laying wires;
- tie-in cranes;
- installation of leak detectors;
- installation of the control module;
- connection and system check.
Appearance of the installed protective circuit of the system. Ball valve tie-in
The most time-consuming stage is the fastening of the ball valve, which is explained by the need to use it on different types of pipes. The water supply is cut in the immediate vicinity of the previously closed water valve. Then the meter is removed and the shut-off valve is fixed on the tap, after which the water meter and pipeline sections are returned to their original position.
Metal-plastic elements are pressed with a lock nut, polypropylene structures are connected by soldering or using detachable couplings. A dedicated power line is used to connect ball valves to the power supply distributor.
Installation of water leakage sensors
Sensors are located in places of possible leakage, while special attention must be paid to the transition between the box where the pipes are placed. This is necessary so that in case of an accident, water gets on the sensor, and does not continue to flow past it.
If the floor surface goes downhill, the devices are located at the lowest point of the room.
The scheme of their connection can be both floor and internal, in which the elements are cut into the coating material. In the first case, the plate is placed with the contacts down and fixed with double-sided tape or construction glue. This option is used in cases where the installation of the "anti-leakage" system is performed after the installation of plumbing equipment.
Water leakage sensor connection diagrams. When the device is located internally, its contacts are placed 3-4 mm above the coating level, which makes it possible to exclude operation in case of accidental splashing of water or cleaning. The connecting wire is laid in a corrugated pipe impervious to water. Manufacturers guarantee the efficiency of the system even when the determinant is 100 m away from the control module.
Wireless devices are mounted on any surface thanks to the fastener system.
Controller Mounting Rules
The device is placed in a niche or on the wall next to the electrical wiring and shut-off valves. The power cabinet serves as the controller's power supply, so phase and zero are connected to the device. The wires are connected using special terminal connectors, which are numbered and signed for ease of installation. Then connect the water leakage detectors and proceed to the diagnosis.
Checking system operation
When the control module is turned on, a green indicator lights up on its panel, indicating that it is ready for operation. If at this moment the sensor plate is wetted with water, the light of the bulb will change to red, the sound pulse will turn on and the shut-off valves will block the water inlet. To unlock the detector, wipe it with a dry cloth and restart the device. After checking the status, the controller will be ready for operation.
How to choose flood protection
The main characteristics of the operation of the complex include the speed of blocking the crane. In the Neptune budget system, this figure is 0.5 minutes, while the technical capabilities of its counterpart Aquaguard allow you to close the valves in 2-3 seconds. You can buy these products in Tyumen in the company "QUANTA +". When choosing a protective circuit, it should be taken into account that 20-25 liters of water can pour out of the pipes in 30 seconds after the rupture.
The cost of the kit increases when using wireless control sensors and additional cranes.