It is truly impossible to overestimate the advantages of drywall as a constructive material. It would seem that nothing remarkable, not having any decorative material. And, nevertheless, with its help you can create an interesting and even exclusive interior - such as, for example, in the photo above.

For those who prefer to do everything in their home with their own hands, nothing is impossible. And we will try to help visitors to our site understand not only the basics of working with drywall, but also offer some great design examples for a wooden house.

To say that creating a drywall masterpiece is easy and simple is to tell a lie. Of course, this requires certain knowledge, skills, as well as a creative approach, without which it is difficult to come up with something interesting. Since the walls of a wooden house will be sheathed, it is worth considering how to combine plasterboard sheathing with load-bearing structures.

So:

  • If building timber of normal quality was used, the fragments left without cladding are sanded and tinted. It looks very nice on the walls, and especially on the ceiling. In the title picture you see a great example of this design.

  • If your intentions do not include the execution of zoning and decorative plasterboard structures, but you just need to make sheathing with insulation, you can always do it yourself. But before starting practical work, you need to stock up on some theoretical knowledge.

Our instructions are designed to help you figure out what's what, but let's start with the simplest option. And this is a lining with insulation.

Layer structure

Plasterboard sheets can be mounted both on glue and on the frame (see). The first option for facing a wooden house is definitely not suitable - especially if you need to make insulation. So, you have to sheathe the ceilings and walls along the crate.

  • In addition to plasterboard sheets, you will need the materials from which this very crate is mounted. It can be bars, and aluminum profiles, or both at once. It depends on the curvature of the walls, and on the type of insulation, and on the dimensions of the heat-insulating material.

  • First of all, you must clearly understand what the general structure of the design is. Then it will be easier for you to find out what and how much you need to purchase, and calculate what the price of the issue will be. Beams are a material ideal for mounting to wooden walls, but if uncalibrated wood is used in their construction, there will be too many bumps on the surface that are difficult to level with linings.

In such a situation, it is better to take a metal profile. It is attached to the wall using direct hangers and allows you to bring walls of any curvature into a single plane.

In principle, bars can also be attached to suspensions, but this is not very practiced among professionals. More often, timber is still used for sheathing straight sections, but in principle there are no semicircular walls in a wooden house.

Criteria for the selection of materials

So, we present in the form of a table those types of materials that will be needed for sheathing with insulation:

Variety of material Dimensions

Each manufacturer has its own size range. Sheet size can be either 2000*600 mm or 3000*1200 mm. But in most cases, a standard size is used, which is standard not only for domestic, but also for imported material: 2500 * 1200 mm.
  • The main thing here is not the length and width of the sheets, but their thickness, which, when sheathing walls, should be at least 12.5 mm. Gypsum board with a thickness of 9 mm is used only for filing ceilings and creating ceiling-wall structures that are purely decorative.

The size of the section of the beam used to install the frame is selected, depending on the thickness of the heat-insulating material. The step between the belts also depends on the size of the insulation, only in this case, its width plays a role. The cross section of the bars can be: 30 * 40 mm; 40*40mm or 40*50mm.
  • Of these, a crate is constructed for insulation, but under drywall, a counter-lattice is installed from a 25 * 40 mm rail, or a profile is already used. This is the same case when both wood and metal profiles are used to equip the substructure.

Since they are not airtight, such as brickwork, then, first of all, it is necessary to equip a barrier to moisture and drafts. For this purpose, a rolled material called a waterproofing membrane is used.
  • In this multilayer construction, the windscreen will be the first layer. Moreover, it is mounted regardless of whether such work was carried out outside. It can be mounted to the wall with nails or a construction stapler.

After the wind insulation is installed, the edges of the sheets laid with a slight overlap are glued with a special waterproofing tape, which you can see in the above photo.

In the process of installing the crate, in those places where it adjoins perpendicular walls or partitions, a sealing tape must be placed under the bars. It will also serve as a barrier to drafts.
  • The tape is placed in a strobe, specially cut out in the place where the bar adjoins the transverse wall. If you carefully look at the diagram above the table, you will immediately understand what was said here.

Both rolled and slab materials can be used as insulation for walls. We gave an example of one of the options that has a foil coating. This layer eliminates the need to install a vapor barrier film over the insulation. When laying the material in the structure, it should be turned with foil into the room.

Apart from nails and screws, this is a complete set of consumables needed directly for sheathing. But given that the drywall surface will still have to be prepared for finishing, you will also need a primer (see), putty, and sickle tape, which will be discussed in more detail below.

With their help, the attachment points and joints between the sheets are sealed, or, if necessary, the surface is puttied over the entire area.

List of tools

The set of tools you need to work will depend on the degree of complexity of drywall constructions. In any case, for cutting and smoothing edges, a peeling and edge planer is needed; drywall knife; wide and narrow spatulas. To cut holes, for example, for a socket, you need a special hacksaw or a round nozzle on a drill, which is called a “crown”.

If you want to independently plan the space of the house with the help of drywall partitions, make some interesting niche or install a suspended ceiling, then you will also need special tools to work with a metal profile: metal shears and a cutter. Along with general construction tools, it's a good idea to have a circular saw as well.

Features of installation of GKL

The installation of drywall sheets should be started after the installation of the substructure is fully completed. Since the first crate is intended for the installation of insulation and is carried out in accordance with its overall dimensions, the distance between the elements of the counter-crate is made such that it is convenient to mount the plasterboard.

So:

  • You should decide in advance how the sheet will be located during installation, because its length is twice the width. Specialists often prefer to do this so that the long side lies along the height of the wall, because the size of the sheet is often enough to cover it from floor to ceiling. In extreme cases, small strips are mounted on top.

  • The elements of the first and second crates are usually mounted perpendicular to each other. In this case, the bars under the insulation are placed horizontally, and the rails on which the drywall will rest are installed vertically. They fasten the remote crate not to the bars that hold the insulation, but to the base base, using long 4.8 * 130 mm self-tapping screws, which you see below.
  • The step between the slats should be no more than 60 cm, which allows you to fix the sheet in width at least in three places. Fasteners are produced more often along the length - after 22-25 cm for each support belt. Where it is necessary to insert cut-off fragments, transverse belts are also installed - so that fastenings can be made around the entire perimeter.

  • It must be borne in mind that in order to avoid the appearance of cracks on the lined surface, the fastening of adjacent sheets is carried out with a slight offset. And yet, when making fasteners, it is very important not to overdo it by screwing in the self-tapping screw.

This should be done without effort, so that its head does not go deep into the thickness of the sheet, while tearing the cardboard shell. If everything happened just like that, you should unscrew the fasteners and, stepping back a couple of centimeters, make a new mount.

Preparing the tiled surface for finishing

Properly sheathing the walls with drywall is half the battle. It is also necessary to prepare its surface for further finishing, and, of course, come up with an acceptable design option.

The first step will be to seal the joints of the sheets and the points of their attachment to the crate. To do this, you need a putty mixture specially designed for gypsum boards.

  • As for the reinforcing tape, both the appearance of the cladding and the strength of the seam depend on its quality. Many masters do not favor fiberglass tape, and claim that the paper version is much more reliable. In any case, it forms inner corners better. To protect the outer corners, a conventional perforated aluminum plaster profile is used.

  • When the putty of the same manufacturer as the drywall is used in the work, this ensures maximum adhesion of materials and you can do without priming the joints. Note that the opinions of experts on this issue are divided. Many of them believe that it is necessary to prime anyway.
  • A solid sheet in most cases has already prepared edges. To ensure the same preparation when cutting it into separate fragments, a special tool is used. First, a peeling planer is used, which aligns and smoothes the end of the GKL, and then, a chamfer with an inclination of 45 degrees is cut with an edge planer.

  • The bevelled walls of the groove formed between the two ends of the gypsum plasterboard provide space for filling with putty and allow you to create a seam of the proper thickness (see). Otherwise, it will turn out thin and very fragile. After laying the mixture in the recesses between the sheets, the excess is removed with a spatula, and then, without waiting for the putty to set, glue the seam with a sickle, pressing it well into the seam.
  • The heads of the self-tapping screws also need to be sealed, and if at the same time the working blade of the spatula clings to the self-tapping screw, then it is under-twisted. For the convenience of work and elimination of such defects, the craftsmen use a spatula, on the handle of which there is a screwdriver - very convenient and saves time. The second, thinner layer of putty mixture is not applied immediately, but after a few hours. More often the next day.
  • But what to do after it dries depends on the type of finish that you will produce next. If this is pasting with rolled materials, the puttied seams can simply be cleaned and sanded, and the drywall surface can be treated with a primer.

  • In any case, if the wallpaper is dense, with a relief or a large pattern, the joints of the drywall sheets under them will not stand out. You just need to take a pigmented primer under the wallpaper, which will mask the colored surface of the GKL. In this regard, we consider it necessary to draw your attention to one very important nuance.

If after a while you need to remove the annoying wallpaper, then they will tear off along with the cardboard shell of the sheet. So, if you don’t want to redo the skin later, it’s better to immediately putty the drywall surface completely. This will make it possible to update the interior as often as you like.

About the preparation for painting and say nothing. In order for the decorative finish to be of high quality, the surface of the walls and ceilings must be perfectly smooth.

Watch video tutorials from professionals and learn how to do everything yourself. With a strong desire, the interior of your house will turn out no worse than the option in the picture above as a sample.