A good, reliable fence with a beautiful gate not only protects a suburban area from uninvited guests, but also gives a clear idea of ​​its boundaries. To make the fence more convenient and practical, its gates are equipped with devices that simplify their opening and make this process automatic. One of the most popular designs is a system with a mechanism that allows you to move the fence to the side. Today, many companies are engaged in installing sliding gates, but we suggest making them yourself.

Design and principle of operation of sliding gates

Depending on the type and location of the supporting surface, sliding gates are divided into rail and roller, but since the latter have a more reliable design, systems with a bottom rail guide are practically not used today. As for the mechanism with support rollers, it is not difficult to assemble it yourself, since all components can be purchased at a retail chain or made independently.

The previously popular sliding gates with a bottom guide rail have today been replaced by a more reliable design with support rollers

This gate can be built in two ways:

• monoscreen,
• double synchronous design.

A monoscreen is a structure of one leaf, which rests on roller guides (carts or cantilever supports) installed on the side of the opening. The gates move along them to one side, opening up space for cars to pass through. This system does not require an upper banner between the pillars and is used when the height of the canvas is no more than 2 meters. The simplicity and convenience of a monoscreen contribute to its popularity for arranging private areas, open areas and courtyards.

Roller sliding gate diagram

Double synchronous gates have a pair of leaves that slide in opposite directions. Unlike a monoscreen, the structure has two supporting foundations and an upper beam, which serves as a guide for additional rollers. The cantilever system is capable of supporting increased weight of the leaf, therefore it is used for gates with a height of more than 2 meters. It is a good option for equipping garages for trucks and high hangars, various warehouses, industrial facilities, etc.

Since the need to install high gates in a private courtyard rarely arises, we will further consider single systems. Among other things, such sliding gates have a simplified design, so they are more suitable for making them yourself.

Roller trolleys are the main supporting elements of the structure

In addition to the guide and roller supports (cantilever blocks or trolleys), several other elements ensure the operability of the structure.

1. Lower and upper catcher. They are U-shaped brackets installed on the edges of a catching post (support, rack) and designed to fix the gate in a closed state. The upper catcher prevents the sash from falling to one side, while the lower lock, in addition to this function, also relieves the load on the rollers and guide.

   Catchers are made of thick metal, because the reliability of fixing the gate in the closed position depends on them

2. Support rail or bracket (roller stop). It is installed along the upper edge of the main post and serves for additional fixation of the canvas.

   Support bracket assembly with rollers

3. Support roller. Attached to the front end of the guide and serves as a plug, damper and support element. When the sash enters the lower catcher, it softens the blow and takes on part of the weight of the structure.

   Support roller with rubber damping pad

In addition, some parts of the system are equipped with plugs that prevent snow accumulation and serve as decorative elements.

Design Features

Before you start purchasing materials, you should draw up at least a small drawing or sketch indicating the main dimensions and calculation of the required material.

Canvas dimensions

One of the main issues in gate design is determining the width and other dimensions of the structure. First of all, you should determine the distance between the gate posts, since all further calculations depend on this value. This takes into account:

• the size of vehicles that will enter the site;
• vehicle entry angle;
• free gap between the overall width of the car and the gate supports, which should be 0.3–0.5 m on each side.

For middle-class passenger cars, a gate with a width of 2.5–3 m will be sufficient, while a truck or tractor requires an opening of at least 3.5 meters.

Design and dimensions of the sliding gate leaf with a frame for a metal profile

If movement perpendicular to the fence line is difficult and entry at an angle is required, then this value must be increased by another 1.5 times. But we must also take into account the fact that for any reason (slippery surface, inexperienced driver, improperly secured load) the car may shift or tilt to the side. Therefore, the optimal gate width can be considered to be about 4.5 m - this will be enough for any situation.

When calculating the width of the canvas, add 20 cm to the size of the opening. This must be done so that when the gate is closed on the side of the support rollers, the yard is not visible through the gap. If this possibility was not taken into account during the manufacture of the sash, then you can get out of the situation by slightly moving the pillars towards each other. When determining the height of the gate, many believe that it should be the same as that of the fence, but usually the leaf is made a little smaller. This is due to the fact that the lower edge of the fence is installed with a minimum gap from the level of the site, while the sash does not touch the ground and is installed with a gap of about 10 cm.

Drawing of a sliding gate leaf without a frame for an infill profile

In fact, the distance between the lower guide and the level of the yard is adjusted using support platforms, which set the height of the roller carts. Depending on their position, the doors rise above the site to a height of 10 to 15 cm.

In addition, the height of the canvas is influenced by the dimensions of the frame of its frame and the width of the lower guide. In order for the gate to end up on the same level as the fence, when designing it is necessary to take into account all these nuances and make an accurate calculation.

Drawings and diagrams

The basis of the design of sliding gates is a guide that moves along cantilever blocks.

To prevent the support rollers from obstructing the passage, they are moved behind the side clearance. In this case, the sash is lengthened due to a special slope that acts as a counterweight. You can avoid distortion when closing sliding gates if the length of the slope is equal to ½ the width of the gate.

The entire load during operation of the mechanism is taken by the roller carts, so their installation requires a strong, reliable base. The foundation is made in the form of a massive reinforced concrete structure with an upper foundation platform made of a wide metal channel. In the future, it will be convenient to use not only for mounting roller bearings, but also for attaching the automation drive.

The recoil type has a very simple design. Understanding the operating mechanism is enough to independently draw up the necessary sketches and make calculations. Nevertheless, we present to your attention diagrams and design drawings that will serve as visual aids and help in the work. Among other things, you can take one of the finished projects as a basis for making sliding gates yourself.

Drawings for manufacturing

Installation diagram for the manufacture of sliding gates Roller support drawing Drawing of a blade with a guide rail Support bracket drawing Installation diagram of the laying platform Block diagram of sliding gates End roller drawing Specification of sliding gate design details Drawing of a guide with a roller assembly

What you will need to build it yourself

When starting to build a gate, you need to have a set of components (accessories), which can be purchased as a set or made independently. As for tools, you don’t need any specific devices - everything you need can be found even by a novice home craftsman.

Selecting parts for the recoil mechanism

There are several options for components for sliding gates, depending on the width of the opening and the weight load:

• for gates weighing up to 400 kg and width no more than 4 m;
• for canvases weighing up to 600 kg and a width of no more than 6 m;
• for sashes weighing from 600 kg and width 6 m or more.

When choosing one or another set for your needs, you should definitely take into account the filling material of the leaf, because it has a significant impact on the weight of the sash.

The creation kit consists of the following parts:

• bottom guide;
• support bracket with rollers;
• roller support - 2 pcs.;
• roller platform support stand - 2 pcs.;
• support (end) roller;
• lower and upper catchers;
• plastic plugs.

The guide of the lower rollers must be rigid enough to maintain its original shape and not deform under wind load. To ensure this condition, responsible manufacturers make the rail from high-quality structural steel with a thickness of at least 3.6 mm - this parameter should be taken into account when choosing it.

Set of accessories for assembling sliding gates

Since the entire mass of the gate is supported by roller carriages, their bearings must be of high quality, and the rolling surfaces themselves must have high hardness. On sale you can find cantilever blocks with plastic rollers that reduce the noise level when the gate moves. Keep in mind that these parts will have to be replaced after some time, as even the highest quality thermoplastics are no match for case-hardened steel. Before installation, it is recommended to open the support roller bearings to check the amount of lubricant - this determines whether the gate will creak when moving, and how long these parts will work without play or jamming.

The sash is secured from above by a supporting bracket. To ensure the stability and reliability of the structure, its thickness must be at least 4 mm. As for the guides installed on it, rubber rollers have proven themselves to be the best. The load on them is not that great, but the fact that they do not scratch the gate frame during operation has a positive effect on the aesthetics of the structure.

When choosing a lower catcher, keep in mind that it works in tandem with a support roller. Be sure to check how freely the end switch fits into the latch. In addition, the end roller is designed to redistribute the load when the gate is closed, so the same requirements are imposed on it as on the main supporting elements of the system.

The metal plate from which the catchers are made must have a thickness of at least 4 mm, since the reliability of fixing the sash in the closed position depends on its quality. In addition, the strength of these parts must be ensured by the welding connection.

Any guide rail plugs will do. The main thing is that they prevent the ingress of snow and perform a decorative function.

The choice of material for lining depends entirely on personal preferences and financial capabilities, so you can use:

• corrugated sheeting, which is lightweight and easy to install using rivets or self-tapping screws. Profile panels can be selected according to thickness, color, depth and width of the wave, and their coating can protect the metal from corrosion for many years;
• steel sheets - selected by thickness and size. Most often used as a basis for forged gate elements;
• polycarbonate, with which the gate will be the lightest;
• picket fence or lining - they must be treated with antiseptic agents and coated with varnish or paint. Only in this case can you count on the durability and aesthetic appearance of lumber;
• forging - can be used either alone or in combination with polycarbonate, lumber or steel sheets. Today in the retail chain you can buy individual forged elements, from which, using welding, it is easy to build a real work of blacksmith art;
• panel (chocolate) - to obtain it, metal sheets are stamped. You can find “chocolate bars” of various sizes on sale. They are attached to the frame by welding or rivets.

When using forging, steel sheets or panels to cover the door, you should take into account the significant increase in the weight of the gate when choosing roller supports and other structural elements.

On sale you can find panels of various sizes, which allows you to create gates of original design

What tools and materials will be needed

The construction of sliding gates will require not only plumbing, but also concrete work, so you should prepare:

• shovel;
• crowbar or pickaxe;
• tamper;
• containers for bulk materials and concrete;
• welding machine;
• grinder (angle grinder or angle grinder);
• cutting and grinding wheel for angle grinders;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• set of open-end wrenches;
• roulette;
• scriber or pencil;
• a compressor with a spray bottle or brushes for painting.

If the sash trim will be made not of metal, but of wood, then you may need a circular or miter saw, a plane, a chisel and other carpentry tools.

Profile steel pipes are best suited for the manufacture of gate leaves.

In addition to components and cladding elements, you will need many other materials. So, to make a sliding gate for a 4-meter opening, you will need to bring to the site:

• at least 18 meters of profile pipe 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm with a wall of 2 mm - for welding the frame frame;
• up to 20 linear meters of pipe 40x20x2 mm, which will be needed for the internal parts of the frame;
• channel No. 20 with a length of at least 2 m - for the construction of an embedded support platform for roller guides;
  Instead of a channel, you can use two pieces of steel angle with a flange 100 mm long, which are welded along the length. It is not recommended to install embeds only under the carriages of roller supports, as well as to concrete the studs - in this case it will be difficult to align the rollers and adjust the automatic closing device (drive).
• thick sheet metal for flashings - mortgages, which are installed in the masonry during the construction of side supports (pillars);
• about 15 m of reinforcement or steel bar with a diameter of 10–12 mm, which will be needed for fastening the channel and constructing the foundation;
• sand, crushed stone and cement for preparing concrete.

You should take care in advance about the aesthetics of the structure, so to paint the frame or the entire canvas you will need paint and a primer. Any alkyd enamel for exterior use and primer for metal surfaces are suitable.

Step-by-step installation of sliding gates

The correct approach to the manufacture of sliding gates will allow you to obtain a strong, reliable design and avoid errors in operation. Therefore, it is better to divide the whole process into several stages:

• construction of support pillars;
• arrangement of the foundation;
• production of canvas and individual structural elements;
• installation of the structure.

To achieve success, everything must be done according to the work plan. Each step must be accompanied by control of geometry and other technological parameters. Only in this case can you count on the fact that even a child will be able to open the gate.

Installation of pillars

Installation of support pillars is one of the most critical stages, since in the future they will be responsible for the stability of the entire structure. Racks can be made from various materials - oak timber, solid metal, brick or concrete. It is recommended to concrete the pillars to a depth of at least 1 m, and in areas with high groundwater levels to build a common foundation for all structural elements of sliding gates.

Diagram of sliding gate support structures

If metal pipes are used for the racks, then installing the catchers and support rail does not cause difficulties - they can be secured by welding. In the case when the pillars are made of stone or brick, it is necessary to install mortgages in the masonry. These fasteners are metal platforms made of thick sheet steel, to which pieces of a metal rod or thick wire are welded. During the construction of pillars, flexible elements are laid in the seams, installing the strips at the required height.

So, to install the support posts, they dig a hole with a diameter of at least 0.5 m and a depth of more than 1 meter, into which the pillar is installed. Next, level it using a level and fill it with concrete. For reliability, several crossbars made from pieces of angle iron, pipes, fittings, etc. can be welded to the lower part of the metal rack.

Construction of the foundation

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to mark the foundation of the support platform and prepare a foundation pit for its arrangement. For these purposes, 0.5 m is retreated from the plane of the fence - this will be the width of the trench. The foundation should be 20–30 cm longer than the sash counterweight.

If automation is used to open the gate, then even at the stage of installing the pillars and constructing the foundation, electrical cables are laid in the ground. To protect them, a corrugated plastic casing is used.

A channel up to 20 cm wide is used as a foundation. Its length is equal to half the width of the opening plus an allowance of 10–20 cm for installing roller support platforms. To ensure the solidity of the mortgage, it is reinforced with a frame made of reinforcement.

Drawing of the foundation of the support platform

The foundation is built like this:

• dig a trench 1–1.5 m deep. On sandy soils, as well as with a high groundwater level, the bottom of the pit should be below the freezing point;
• rods are cut from a metal rod or reinforcement: long 1–1.5 m (according to the depth of the trench) and short 0.2 m. The latter will be needed half as much - they will be used as jumpers;
• long pieces of reinforcement are welded to the side shelves of the channel at a distance of 30 cm from each other, obtaining a structure similar to a bench with many legs;
• opposite rods are connected in pairs using 20-centimeter jumpers at a distance of 0.7–0.8 m from the channel;
• The embedded structure is lowered into the trench, leveling the channel to the height of the site.
  

  The channel must be aligned strictly horizontally so that its upper plane coincides with the level of the roadway. If tiles, concrete or asphalt pavement is still being planned, then an increase in the height of the driveway must be taken into account.

• install formwork and armored belt;
• pour concrete and compact it thoroughly.

According to the technology, the foundation must stand for 28 days for the concrete to reach brand strength.

Arrangement of the foundation of the support platform

Making the sash

To manufacture the load-bearing frame of the gate leaf, profile metal pipes with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm are used. In order not to get a sash that is driven by a “propeller”, it is necessary to arrange a platform with a strictly horizontal plane. To do this, choose a wide, flat place and lay wooden slats or bars on the ground with small gaps. Level control is carried out using a laser or bubble tool and a construction cord.

It is convenient to use wooden supports for welding the sliding gate leaf

The fabric is welded from the bottom up, laying individual structural elements on the prepared plane.

1. An outer frame is made, which is the main frame of the sash. To do this, a frame pipe with a cross section of 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm is welded to the guide rail. After this, vertical pipes are attached to its upper plane, and the upper cross member and slope are mounted. The welding seam can be made with tacks 2 cm long every 0.5–0.6 m.
   The frame is welded in a staggered manner. This will prevent overheating of individual areas and disruption of the flatness of the structure.
2. Elements of the filling frame are welded to the base of the frame, which will be needed to attach the corrugated sheeting and will make the structure more rigid. Internal bulkheads are made of 40x20 mm pipes.
3. The welding areas are cleaned with an angle grinder, after which the structure is coated with a primer.
4. Using a spray gun, apply two or three layers of alkyd paint.
5. After the protective layer has dried, the canvas is sheathed with corrugated board. To fasten it, use self-tapping screws or rivets, holes for which are drilled with an electric drill.

The frame, which will be sheathed with corrugated sheets, wood or polycarbonate, must be painted before filling

If steel sheets or forging are used as filling, they are welded at the stage of constructing the frame, after which they are cleaned and only after that the gate is prepared for painting.

Assembly instructions

1. Installation of sliding gates begins with markings. In order to indicate the trajectory of their movement, it is necessary to stretch a cord along the roadway. The gap between it and the road surface should be 150–200 mm, and the distance to the support pillar should be 70 mm (with a recommended thickness of the road surface of up to 70 mm). In the future, the cord will serve as the center line when installing cantilever supports
2. Determine the installation location of the front roller carriage. The principle here is simple - the farther the supports are placed from each other, the less will be the load on the bearings. However, the set of support rollers closest to the roadway is installed not along the extreme dimensions of the post, but at a distance of 15 cm in the direction of rollback. This is done so that the rolling roller protruding from the sash does not protrude onto the roadway. To determine the extreme position of the rear console support, subtract 100 mm from the total length of the web (with counterweight). The resulting value is laid off from the receiving pole (on which the catchers will be mounted) - this point will be the outer boundary of the second cart.

   Determining the installation locations of roller bearings

3. The supporting platforms of the roller supports are aligned to the obtained points and secured by welding, after which the rollers are installed on the adjusting plates.

   The roller bearings are mounted on the base plate by means of supporting platforms. This allows you to avoid overheating of the rollers during installation and to be able to align the guide “horizontally”

4. The door leaf is placed in place by rolling the guide onto the rollers. The supports are checked for correct installation, after which the sash is removed and the trolleys themselves are dismantled.
5. The adjustment plates are securely welded.

   Before welding the support platforms and installing the trolleys in place, the door leaf is removed

6. The roller supports and canvas are installed in place, after which the gate is fixed in the closed state.
7. The building level is set in the same plane as the guide, after which the adjusting bolts of the supporting platforms are used to set the gate “to the horizon”.

   Correct installation of the roller carriage (with a supporting platform) will allow you to easily adjust the level of the guide beam

8. The knurling roller is installed inside the guide, after which it is secured with bolts and secured by welding for reliability.

   Installation of the knurling roller

9. Opposite the post closest to the roller carts, a roller limiter is installed on the upper edge of the web. The support rail is secured by welding, after which the gate is adjusted vertically.

   The support rail bracket can be attached to the post by welding - the wide adjustment range of each roller allows you to easily align the door leaf vertically

10. Install the lower catcher. To mark the location of its installation, the gate is fixed in the closed position, the catcher bracket is placed under the support roller and pressed until it touches completely. The catcher is secured with bolts so that its position relative to the roller can be adjusted in the future.

    If you do everything correctly and carefully, you should end up with a design like this:

    Video: how to install sliding gates with your own hands

    How to equip them with automation

    An automatic opening system can be installed on such gates only if they move easily and without jerking on the rollers. To do this you need to purchase:

    • rack;
    • electric drive;
    • signal light;
    • limit switches or photocells;
    • remote control;
    • Control block.

    Today there is no need to buy components separately - ready-made automation kits can be found on sale. To install the system, you will need the same tools that were used in the manufacture and installation of the gate.

    Automation kit for sliding gates

    The electric drive is attached to the same embedded channel as the roller bearings. The work is carried out in stages.

    
    

    For safety reasons, a signal lamp is installed on the outermost pole. After this, check the correctness of the electrical connections and turn on the power supply.

    You can use a screwdriver or any electric motor with a gearbox as a sliding gate drive, and use an inexpensive car alarm for remote control.

    Video: sliding gates with a drive made from a screwdriver

    Although sliding gates require more financial investment than regular ones, the lion's share of costs can be saved if you make them yourself. Ease of use and comfort provided by the remote control system are combined with high reliability and the ability to save space on the site. Not a bad argument for a modern and functional design, right?

    Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates - drawings, diagrams, installation and design details. We have made 100% free sliding gate drawings for you.
You no longer need to scour the Internet in search of sensible drawings, stumbling upon ancient drawings that are devoid of practical meaning, you don’t need to give your Viber or other messenger so that sectarian managers will call you for months. There is no need to buy components at exorbitant prices from companies that promise a “free” drawing when you purchase their product, etc.

"HOW TO MAKE SLIDING GATES WITH YOUR OWN HANDS"

We tried to create a database of sliding gate drawings so that every user who decides to make a sliding gate with their own hands can easily find useful information for themselves. You can find out the general theory about the design of sliding gates in the article sliding gate diagram. It is better to view the drawings on a large-diagonal tablet, desktop computer, or print it out.

BUY SLIDING GATE ACCESSORIES.

A few words on how to use the database. Let's say you have a classic opening 4 m wide. Find a drawing in the range that your opening falls into and feel free to make a gate along it. The fact is that sliding gates must cover the opening in each direction by 100-200mm. Firstly, the gaps are closed, and secondly, such overlap is necessary for proper fixation of the gate with catchers and an upper limiter. In the drawings, the covering of the opening with a sash is indicated - D, there is never too much of it, there is only a little. This is another important advantage of sliding gates - it’s harder to “mess up”
That is, for an opening of 3.9 m and 4.1 m, the sash will be the same, only parameter D will differ, 200 mm and 100 mm, respectively, which is within normal limits. For the required opening of 4 m, the covering will be 150 mm in each direction, which is excellent.
If your opening is, say, 4.15 m, then do it either like 4.1 or like 4.2, it will still work out correctly.

BUY AUTOMATION FOR SLIDING GATES PRICE

Regarding the height of the gate. The database contains drawings for an opening 2 m high from the level of the finished floor; if you have more or less than 2 m, then add or subtract the desired distance from the frame heights and that’s it.
Example: let’s say the height of your gate from zero (in the drawings - H) is not 2m, but 2.5m.
Add 500mm to all heights. and we get: H=2500mm, H2=2430mm, H1=2370, h3=2310mm, h4=2230mm. All.
The same thing applies to the direction of opening - the database contains gates that open to the left, when viewed from the yard; with a right opening, everything will be the opposite without any design changes.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE CORRECT ACCESSORIES FOR SLIDING GATES.

The recommended fittings for sliding gates with a width of 3-5.4 m are SP PREMIER STANDART-500. Your gate will move easily, smoothly and silently. That's how it is in the video.
With fittings from another manufacturer, such a smooth and quiet gate operation may not be possible.

As they say, feel the difference. Gates with fittings from one brand widely advertised on the Internet:

FREE DRAWINGS OF SLIDING GATES:
Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.0-3.2 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.3-3.5 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.6-3.8 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 3.9-4.1 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.2-4.4 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.5-4.7 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 4.8-5.0 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.2-5.4 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.5-5.7 m (click to enlarge)
Please note that from this gate size onwards a large guide 94x85x5 is used.
Recommended fittings for gates with a width of 5.4-10 m are STRONG-800 or Roll Grand #1 up to 800 kg.

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 5.8-6.0 m (click to enlarge)

Drawing of a sliding gate with an opening of 6.0-10.0 m (click to enlarge)

For such gates, fitting kits for 800 kg with a guide 94x85 and a wall thickness of 5 mm are also used. We recommend STRONG-800 or Roll Grand #1 up to 800 kg.
The technology and methodology remain the same. We calculate the length of the gate structure using the formula: Lopening*1.5+200mm. Where Lopening is the clear width of the opening, the length of the counterweight is 0.5 from Lopening, 200mm is covering the opening with a canvas of 100mm on each side. For such large gates, it is highly advisable to make the counterweight part equal to half the opening. That's all the nuances.

In this article we will tell you about the main secrets and nuances of manufacturing sliding gates. Sliding gates are the best solution for organizing entry into a yard or enterprise territory. Let's consider their advantages: simple kinematics - sliding gates move (roll away) along the fence, requiring less labor to opening and closing are easily and cheaply automated, do not require fixation in the open position - they will not be closed unexpectedly, for example, by the wind, as happens with swing gates. To manufacture sliding gates, special components are required - the so-called fittings for sliding gates or otherwise sliding gate mechanism.
In addition, sliding gates, unlike classic swing gates, require space for rolling back the door leaf and a special foundation. See fig.

To calculate how much space is needed to roll back the gate, you need to multiply the clear width of the opening by 1.4. In other words, the space for sliding should be 40% greater than the width of the opening, since sliding gates consist of a door leaf and a counterweight, the length of which is 40% of the door leaf.

If your site meets these conditions, then you can get down to business. If there is a shortage of space, then the minimum possible length of the counterweight for normal operation of the gate will be 33% less; it is no longer possible - the gate will peck and it will be difficult to “walk”; if there is no space at all, then we must admit that sliding gates cannot be installed and it is worth considering other types, for example, swing, roller, etc. Sliding gates with a wicket - these nuances are described.

So, if everything is in order with the place for the sliding gate, then we proceed to constructing the opening for the sliding gate. First, you need to install pillars enclosing the opening, we will not dwell on this in detail because everything is clear here, we will only note that the pillars should not wobble, be concreted taking into account the depth of soil freezing, and also mortgages (3 pieces each) should be placed on the surface of the pillar facing the courtyard, the strips will subsequently be attached to these mortgages, we will come to this later. The optimal size of each mortgage is 60x60mm. The mortgage must be flush with the brick or protrude slightly; connection with the central pipe in the column is required. If the pillars are metal, then mortgages are not needed - the strips will be welded directly to them. An example of a well-prepared opening:

Scheme of concreting the foundation of sliding gates with electrical wiring: Clickable. More information about the foundation -

After installing the pillars, we proceed to pouring the foundation. You need to dig a hole half the width of the opening. We start from the edge of the opening and move towards the rollback of the gate. The width of the pit is 400-500 mm, the depth is 1000-1500 mm, depending on the soil. For quicksand, swamps, and quicksand, we study construction documentation for foundations. The foundation should not sag, be subject to seasonal sinking, pushing, etc.
After our pit is ready, we make a “banquette”, see fig. higher. We take a channel 10-16 cm wide and also half the width of the opening, weld reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm to the shelves and form an adequate spatial grid from the reinforcement. Next, we fix the bench in the hole, set the surface of the channel to the level of the “finished floor” (final asphalt or tiles), in addition, the surface of the channel must lie exactly at the horizontal level, this is important. We lay the channel close to the post. After this, we fill the pit with solution and wait a week or two.
As a result, after this we will get the following foundation:

The photo above shows the foundation for the sliding gates laid out in the “clean zero” of the yard, but the area will still be filled up. Therefore, it is also important to determine the level of the finished floor of your site before pouring; you may have to install formwork. Now let's move on to manufacturing the supporting frame of the sliding gate.
As a rule, profiled pipes 60x30 and 60x40 with a 2mm wall are used for the external frame, but 50x50, 60x60 are also possible. First, we fence our pipes - remove rust, degrease and prime. In Fig. these pipes are shown in green. We form an external frame from a 60*30 pipe, make sure that all the necessary angles are right, the canvas is in the same plane, and we do not make the common mistake when the frame, usually in the area of ​​the counterweight, lifts up a little along with the guide - everything should be smooth and neat. Welding seams must be continuous, without holes. To weld the gate frame, it is also convenient to use a specialized T-profile, this will significantly reduce the amount of welding work, since in itself it is already the desired combination of pipes 60x40 and 40x20.

Drawing diagram of a sliding gate device in the general case. External frame (green), internal sheathing (red), guide from the hardware kit (black).

The principle of forming a frame for sliding gates:

FREE DRAWINGS OF SLIDING GATES.

And this is a cross-sectional drawing of a sliding gate to help you understand the components of the gate height:

An example of a drawing of a gate frame for an opening of 4 meters and a height of 2 meters.

After this, you need to weld the internal frame (sheathing), which serves to ensure the rigidity of the structure, and also serves to fasten the lining - corrugated sheets, boards, polycarbonate, block house, etc.). The internal frame is made from a 20*20mm, 20*40mm pipe; it is easier to get into a 20*40 pipe with a rivet or a self-tapping screw. The internal frame is shown in Fig. above in red.
Distance “a” is equal to the width of the corrugated sheet used (often 1150mm); the joints of the sheets must pass along the vertical pipe of the sheathing. Distance "b" is equal to the distance remaining after sewing with solid sheets. The outermost sheet is usually always carefully cut to width using a grinder
It should look like this:

If the gate is sewn up on one side, then the inner sheathing can be moved to the edge of the outer frame towards the yard; this is true if the sheathing material is thick, for example corrugated sheeting with a “high wave”, sandwich panels, boards, etc. Welding work, as I already said, is carried out competently so that the pipes do not “lead”, we follow the principle of “chessboard order”. When the outer frame is ready and the sheathing is welded, we weld the guide from the fitting kit to the frame from below along the entire length. It is advisable to fix them with clamps. The guide rail must also be welded in a “checkerboard pattern”, otherwise the gate frame and guide may “lead” from welding and it will resemble a propeller. After this, we clean the weld seams, prime and paint the damaged areas. Sliding gate frame before covering with corrugated sheets:

When the paint is completely dry, we move on to sewing the fabric. We attach the lining material to the internal frame (sheathing) using rivets or self-tapping screws. Sliding gate frame after covering with corrugated sheet:

Please note that this section of the sliding gate counterweight is level and not “lifted up” and this is correct.

Let's consider some of the features of large openings, more than 5 meters. The figure below shows a drawing of a sliding gate for an opening 6 m wide and 2 m high. Please note the design of the counterweight part here is not triangular, but in the form of a rectangle with two diagonals. In addition, with a large opening length of more than 5.5 m, the counterweight should be made at 45-50% of the opening.

Well, the time has come to install the gate. The entire process of installing sliding gates with your own hands is perfectly illustrated in this video.

To begin with, we place the carriages on the foundation and spread them as far as possible within the limits of our counterweight (triangle). See fig.

but we mean that the end roller has a size of about 110 mm, so we place the carriage closest to the opening from the opening, taking into account this distance, and we place the carriage farthest from the opening so that it does not knock out the plug when closed. The wider between the carriages the better, but without fanaticism.

After that, we “roll” our sliding gate frame onto the carriages, set the sliding gates to the level and “grab” the heels of the carriages to the channel by welding, if everything is good, then we scald the heels, if we don’t like something, we set it up again, we achieve the desired result (the position of the gate in level, absence of distortions, etc.) and then scald. Then we weld the upper support rollers, install the end roller, and weld the upper and lower catchers. The rolling roller must roll onto the lower catcher and unload the gate in the closed position.
If your poles are made of metal pipes or channels, then the catchers and upper limiter can be welded directly to the pole. If brick, concrete or stone pillars are used, they need to be attached to a profile pipe-plate (usually 60*30, which is attached to the pillar using mortgages, and in their absence, to dowels, anchors, fittings, etc.

Installation of the upper limiter (upper rollers)

:

If you have peaks or a semicircular arch of peaks on your gate, then a so-called portal is used - a U-shaped structure is welded near the pillar, allowing your peaks to pass through in height. The upper limiter is cut in two and welded to the portal so that the rollers “clasp” the gate on both sides. To do this, you need to provide a pipe (flat surface) along which the rollers of the upper limiter will roll. See pic:

Or using a remote pipe (60x40), if it is not possible to implement it as in the photo above, i.e. this way: More details.

Attaching catchers to the strip.

To mount the carriages, you can use a special accessory - adjustment platforms, with their help you can adjust the gate height and eliminate distortions, within some reasonable limits. And also to “get out of the situation” in case of any miscalculation. But if all the levels are set correctly and the foundation level is not “filled up,” then your gate will stand correctly and without any adjustments.

The supports are welded to the channel and the carriage is secured with nuts. Do-it-yourself sliding gates will cost you significantly less than ordering "turnkey" from companies. To do this you will need We are always ready to provide you with a wide selection of components for sliding gates and affordable prices. This material will certainly help you make your own sliding gates easily, quickly and without unnecessary overpayments! Assemble the sliding gates yourself - save your money.

Still have questions? Call and our managers will be happy to advise you on all questions! Call or request a consultation.

1. A welding machine, a household transformer one, is quite suitable. The welding current must be at least 130 A. Make sure that the device does not overheat during operation. It is, of course, advisable to have an inverter welder, but it costs much more. The device must have sleeves and a mask.

2. Electrodes. A pack of 3 mm universal electrodes is enough to make a gate with a wicket.
3. Grinder or cutting machine, any size.

4. Cutting wheels for a small grinder (125mm) will require about 7 + 2-3 grinding wheels.

5. Hammer.

6. Level.

7. A screwdriver with attachments for fastening corrugated sheets (or a riveter).

8. Self-tapping screws (or rivets) – 200 pcs.

9. Set of accessories for sliding gates.

10. Corrugated sheet about 10 sq.m.

11. Pipe 60*40 - 20 m.

12. Pipe 40*20 - 20 m.

13. Pipe 60*60 - 7 m.

14. Channel 16 - 20 cm, its length should be equal to half the width of the opening (if the opening is 3.6 meters, the length of the channel is 1.8 m).

15. Reinforcement with a cross section of 10 – 14 mm.

16. Paint - 1 can.

17. Primer – 1 can.

18. Solvent - 1 can.

19. Sealant.

20. Automotive anti-corrosion primer - 1 can.

As for, they come in several types, depending on the weight and length of the opening of your gate and have a standard set:

• console (aka beam, guide) - this is the basis of the entire system, it is a rail, inside of which there are rollers, thanks to which the gate leaf can move
• two roller carriages are mounted on the foundation, the rollers themselves are located inside the console
• top roller prevents the door leaf from swinging and keeps it in a strictly vertical position
• end roller prevents the sash from sagging in the closed position, fixes it
• upper catcher
• bottom catcher“accepts” the gate leaf, preventing it from warping when closing
• console plugs protect the console from dirt, dust, sand and moisture

Performs the function of automatically opening and closing your gate. This is not a mandatory element of sliding gates; rather, it is a step towards your personal comfort. First of all, the owner of an automatic sliding gate does not need to leave the car in order to open the gate. And, no matter whether it’s rain, snow, hail or a little rain, automatic sliding gates will save owners from having to bother with opening the gate. To avoid any problems with your sliding gates in the future, it is better to worry about choosing the right automation in advance. Just as in the choice of components for sliding gates, the choice of automation depends on the weight and length of your gate, as well as on the frequency of use of the gate. This will determine how much power you need from the drive. Also pay attention to the different functions that different electric drives have, compare the materials from which the mechanism and housing parts are made. The standard automation kit includes:

• Electric drive– a motor that moves the gate leaf
• Rack– transmits movement from the drive to the gate itself, attached to the gate leaf
• Photocells– take care of the safety of you and your car by detecting obstacles in the gate leaf. If any object is detected, the gate will stop and start moving in the opposite direction
• Remote Control - serves to issue commands to open and close the gate
• Signal lamp– notifies about errors in the operation of the sliding system, as well as about its movement

Now, we can move on to the description of the work. So, the first thing you need to do is calculate the weight and size of the future sliding gate. As mentioned above, this is extremely important, so you need to take it seriously. Use the rule “measure twice, cut once.” The fact is that the heavier the gate, the more durable and expensive set of fittings for sliding gates and the more powerful electric drive you will need to order. The length of the console you will need depends on the size of the gate leaf. The width of the sliding gate opening is calculated depending on what kind of car you have (car, truck) and how wide the street is. It’s best to put two sticks and try to drive between them from the side of the street - it turned out, which means that the drive should be approximately like this, and if you knocked down one of the sticks, it’s better to widen the passage. Having received the dimensions of the opening width, you need to calculate the size of the counterweight of the gate; to do this, use a simple formula: (half of 100% of the width of the gate opening is the size of the counterweight). And so, if the length of the gate opening is 4 meters, then the length of the counterweight is 2 meters, and the length of the entire gate leaf is 6 meters.

Preparing support pillars

It is necessary to correctly install the support pillars, to which the sliding gates will in turn be attached. The support pillar can be anything - it can be a brick or concrete pillar, a channel, an oak beam, etc. We recommend that you concrete the pillar (to a depth of soil freezing) of 1 m, install the pillars below the level, then fill them with mortar. In brick and concrete pillars, it is necessary to provide metal mortgages, 3 pieces on each pillar, evenly positioned, approximately 10 cm from the edge on the side of the opening. The most optimal size of such a mortgage is 10 x 10 cm and it should be located “flush” with the finish of the post.

We attach vertically 60 x 60 pipes (false pillars) to the support pillars on the side of the gate, along the height of the canvas plus 10 cm. The false pillar near the foundation is called a side pillar and can be made in the form of a frame, the opposite one is a receiving or unloading one, since it receives and holds the canvas between openings. We attach a support bar with rollers to the side post at the required height.

Foundation for sliding gates

To pour the foundation under the base of the sliding gate, you need to dig a hole on the sliding side of the gate. Its length should be 50% of the width of the gate opening, that is, if the width of your gate opening is 4 m, then the length of the pit for the foundation should be 2 m. The width of the pit should be at least 40 cm, and the depth, as indicated above, should exceed the critical freezing depth by 200 mm, this is approximately 1.3 m, that is, a depth of 1.5 m under the foundation will be sufficient.

Next, we will deal with the embedded structure for sliding gates. You need a channel 16 - 20cm. width, as well as reinforcement with a cross-section of 10 - 12 mm. Choose a level area. Install the channel so that it lies on the edge. Using a grinder or grinder, cut the reinforcement into pieces of 1.2–1.5 m, you will get the so-called “legs”. Next, we weld the “legs” to the inside of the channel shelves. But for greater strength, we advise you to scald the legs of the mortgage with vertical rods. Install the foundation element for your sliding gates in the prepared place, level, with the “legs” down. Its top should ideally coincide with the entry level (“0” section).
If everything is correct, you can start concreting. The foundation for sliding gates must stand for at least a week, and according to building codes and regulations (SNiP) - one month, or more precisely 28 days.

Attention! If you want to install automation for sliding gates, then you will need to lay power and signal cables under the roadway

Electrical wiring for automatic sliding gates

For electrical wiring you will need:

Power cable 3x1.5 in outdoor version (for powering the gate drive), length from the electrical panel to the installation point of the drive

Signal cable 2x0.5 with reinforced insulation to connect photocells and signal lamp (length is determined at the gate installation site)

A standard television cable connecting the receiving device to an external antenna (the length is determined by the distance from the antenna to the radio) if it is installed

Corrugated HDPE pipe with a diameter of 20 to 32 mm, for laying cables underground.

In cases where you are hesitating whether or not to equip your gate with a drive, it is recommended to lay the supply cables. Since, after pouring the foundation, hidden laying of cables will require large additional costs.

The electrical cable outlet in the corrugation must be made at a distance of at least 50 cm from the gate opening (marked with the letter “A” in the sketch), and 5-7 cm from the channel in concrete (distance “B”). It is necessary to bring the cables from the photocells and the signal lamp to the same point.

Gate manufacturing

While the foundation is being built, you can start making the sliding gate leaf. Prepare a flat area (assembly site). Mark a 6 x 2 meter rectangle on it, and, starting from any corner, hammer 6 wooden stops into the ground along the contour of the rectangle. Use a level to align the stops with each other in a horizontal plane and make an outline of rigid, wooden or metal joists. Strengthen the resulting structure with self-tapping screws.

Using a grinder, cut the profile pipes 60x40x2 (for the frame structure) to the dimensions you need. You should get a lower (basic) horizontal profile and an upper one, two vertical profiles, and a counterweight profile according to the calculations made. Fix the frame elements relative to each other by spot welding at the joints, and use a tape measure to check the diagonals of the resulting structure. The size of the diagonals must be the same. Also check the 45 and 90° angles with a square. If there are no deviations in the corners and diagonals of the frame, weld the joints of the frame elements with a continuous weld. The joints of the frame should become airtight after welding.

Next, we will strengthen the sliding gate leaf with stiffening ribs (internal frame frame). Using a grinder (grinder), cut according to the calculated dimensions the 40x20x2 profile pipes intended to become stiffeners and places for attaching the sliding gate lining. It is necessary to cut in such a way that after welding the joints become airtight.. Strictly adhere to the dimensions. Fix the profile pipes at the joints using spot welding and start measuring. The diagonals of the frame structure and the angles of 45 and 90° are checked.

If there are no deviations, weld the contact points between the stiffeners and the load-bearing frame with short 15 mm seams at intervals of up to 500 mm. Smooth all weld seams on the door leaf with a grinder.

Don't forget to seal the resulting gaps between the main frame and the inner frame with silicone sealant. Ensure proper waterproofing of your structure, not forgetting about welding seams. Lastly, prime and paint the sliding gate leaf.

Once the gate frame is dry, it can be sewn up. For this purpose, a variety of materials are used depending on personal preferences. Corrugated sheeting is used most often; it is light and easy to install.

Installation of sliding gates

On a pre-prepared foundation for sliding gates (channel), we place the roller carriages as far apart as possible from each other. It must be remembered that the knurling roller (end roller) has a size of approximately 150 mm, so we move the carriage closest to the opening, taking into account this distance of 150 mm, and we also position the carriage that is further from the opening in such a way that it does not knock out the plug from the other side of the guide rail when closing the gate.

Next, we put the sliding gate frame on the roller carriages and level the sliding gate. The carriage platforms are slightly welded to the channel. Roll the door leaf to the end positions of the open and closed door opening. If difficulties arise with fully opening or closing the gate opening, knock down the clamps with a grinder and carefully adjust the distance from the right or left edges of the channel to the support roller carts.

Many people who decide to make sliding gates with their own hands try to attach the roller carts to the channel not by welding, but with the help of studs and nuts (fortunately, the roller carts have holes for the studs). Is the game worth the candle? This is what people usually do when they make homemade sliding gates for the first time in their lives. They believe that in this case the roller carts can be adjusted, removed, etc. You will be faced with a large amount of work (drilling a channel, cutting threads, very precise installation of a channel, etc.). Plus, the slightest mistake (deviation of a few millimeters) can result in days of fussing over the studs while welding! And you will be forced to simply cut off the studs and weld the rollers directly to the foundation for the sliding gate. You just shouldn’t weld gate rollers in hard-to-reach places that are difficult to access with a small grinder. If it is necessary to remove or move the roller carriage, we trim the weld seam and move the rollers in the desired direction. The process can be repeated many times without the slightest damage to the gate mechanisms. Yes, the use of studs is more aesthetically pleasing and correct, but it is very rarely used due to the high precision of installing the foundation for sliding gates.

From our point of view, it is better to use a compromise option - ready-made platforms with pins for rollers for sliding gates. The platforms are welded to the foundation for sliding gates using welding, and the rollers for sliding gates themselves are attached to the platform using studs and nuts. This is a little more expensive, but it saves you from unnecessary fuss and time. After you are convinced that the carriages are installed correctly, we scald the carriage platforms completely, it is important to achieve the desired result (no distortions, correct position of the gate in the level).

We weld the plate with supporting rollers to the support post, and adjust the fastening of the rollers so that the gap on each side of the gate leaf is 2-3 mm.

Then you need to insert the knurling roller (end roller) and weld the lower catcher. The lower catcher is attached so that it is 3-4 mm above the end roller in the guide, which has not yet entered the catcher. This is necessary to unload the roller carriages.

The upper catcher is mounted at a height of 1.6-1.8 meters to secure the sash from above, from the wind or from vandals.

And lastly, put caps on the ends of the console to protect it from moisture and debris getting inside it.

That's it, your gate is ready for use.

Thus, by making sliding gates with your own hands, you win on many points at once:

• You save your money
• You only buyquality components for sliding gates, because you choose them personally, based only on your desire to achieve the desired result, and not based on what the intermediaries have lying around in the warehouse
• You carry out all your work efficiently and thoughtfully, because you do everything for yourself.

Previously, sliding gates that automatically opened the passage for vehicles were found only in industrial enterprises. At the entrances to the courtyards of private houses, traditional swing doors were everywhere, since actuators and automation were not available for sale. Various homemade devices invented by home craftsmen do not count. Nowadays you can buy a ready-made set of equipment for relatively little money, and do the installation yourself. All that remains is to understand how to make a sliding gate from a set of parts with your own hands, which we will talk about later.

Sliding gate designs

First, let's find out what technical solutions are used to implement the retractable sash principle. There are 3 types of designs:

• hanging;
• rail;
• console

In the first case, the retractable canvas is suspended on rollers to a horizontal beam fixed above the entrance or garage opening, as shown in the photo below. The system is very reliable, but not without a flaw: the beam limits the height of passing traffic, and it looks unsightly, especially if installed on the front fence of a private house.

A gate that rolls away on a ground rail is the simplest solution. They can be made solid or sliding, consisting of two halves, with or without an electric drive. But there is one problem that negates all the advantages of the rail system: the ground guide quickly becomes clogged with dirt in the summer, and in the winter it is covered with snow and covered with ice. To ensure normal operation of the sashes, the rail must be constantly cleaned by hand.

Reference. Occasionally there are combined versions of products, where the canvas moves along two guides - upper and lower.

The cantilever sliding gates shown in the photo do not have the disadvantages of the two previous designs, since there are no beams or rails in the opening. The structure and principle of operation of the system looks like this:

1. The door leaf is a metal frame fixed on top of a retractable (cantilever) beam. The latter moves on roller stops mounted on a reinforced concrete foundation.
2. A gear rack is attached along the entire length of the beam, combined with the drive gear that ensures the movement of the sash.
3. When the gate is closed, the counterweight for the sliding frame is a foundation made to the side of the opening, as shown in the diagram below. At the end of the cycle, the edge of the sash falls into the catchers on the fence post, which keep the leaf closed. At this moment, the limit switch is triggered, stopping the electric motor.
4. To prevent the sash from swinging, an upper guide device is placed on the nearest fence support.

Scheme of cantilever sliding gates

The only drawback of the system is that for its installation you need to allocate a lot of space behind the fence, since the length of the canvas is one and a half times greater than the dimensions of the opening. But otherwise, this is the best design to date, and we will be manufacturing it.

Preparation for installation

Before you get to work, you need to check the technical feasibility of installing sliding gates yourself. To do this, the following conditions must be met:

• in the direction where it is planned to slide the canvas when opening, the fence should be straight;
• the length of this straight section is not less than the width of the entrance multiplied by 1.5;
• the terrain of the area behind the fence must be level so that the opened door does not rest against the ground;
• fence supports on the sides of the opening must be built in advance;
• To fasten catchers and guides in brick or block pillars, it is necessary to provide embedded parts.

If your measurements and calculations show that there is enough space for the web to move and the supports are already ready, then proceed to purchasing materials and components. To count their number, it is not necessary to create a project; it is enough to draw a sketch of the future gate according to the drawings offered by manufacturers or users of thematic forums.

Reference. Often, manufacturers of sliding gates, for example, the well-known company Dorhan, offer complete sets of materials, including profile pipes for assembling the frame and corrugated sheeting. The products are designed for a standard driveway width of 4 m.

The minimum installation kit for a gate includes the following parts:

• cantilever beam;
• 2 roller supports;
• upper and lower catcher;
• support and support rollers;
• top guide bracket;
• gear rack;
• mechanical drive with mounting platform;
• caps for the ends of the beam.

Optionally, the product can be equipped with a remote and automatic opening system with photo sensors. If necessary, a gate is built into the canvas that swings inside the yard (you can’t go outside, it might accidentally bump into a pole). What the main fittings for sliding doors look like is shown in detail in the video:

When selecting a kit and drive, the weight of the door leaf must be taken into account. For example, if you weld a six-meter frame for a 4-meter opening according to the drawing, then the total weight of the structure will not exceed 400 kg. Provided that profile pipes with a cross section of 60 x 40 mm are used for the frame, and lintels - 40 x 20 mm, lined with corrugated sheets.

Pouring the foundation

Before installing the concrete base, it is necessary to make a load-bearing frame to which the gate is attached. To do this, make a frame from periodic profile reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm and attach channel No. 18 to it by welding, as shown in the drawing below. The reinforcing mesh is welded in the middle of the inner flange.

Note. The design of the foundation and load frame shown in the drawing is designed for a web weight of up to 400 kg (length 6 m). If the parameters of your sash are different, then when assembling, follow the instructions in the installation kit manufacturer’s instructions.

Foundation drawing for a 6 m long frame (4 m opening)

Work on pouring the base of sliding gates is carried out in the following order:

1. Close to the existing post, dig a rectangular hole to a depth of 1.5 m to fit the dimensions of the load frame, in our case – 180 x 40 cm. Compact the bottom and pour a sand cushion 100 mm thick.
2. Insert the load frame into the pit and secure it in a vertical position with pieces of reinforcement.
3. Place formwork of the required height around the hole so that the base is raised above the road level, as shown in the photo.
4. Prepare the M250 concrete mixture in the following proportions: 1 part M400 cement is mixed with 2 parts sand and 4 parts crushed stone.
5. Place concrete in the pit in layers, constantly compacting it with a bayonet shovel or steel rod.

Complete hardening of the concrete mixture will occur after 4 weeks. During this time, complete the remaining work - assembling the canvas and installing components on the poles.

Fabrication and installation of canvas

The sliding gate leaf is a rather large structure and this is where its assembly is difficult. The fact is that all frame elements must lie in the same plane, and this is not easy to achieve at home. You need to prepare a flat horizontal platform and come up with stands to weld the structure in a lying position on the same level. One of the options with stands is shown in the photo:

To correctly install sliding gates, proceed in this order:

1. Weld a frame from profile pipes using tacks, check the diagonals and trim if necessary. Then grab the middle crossbar and repeat the test again. Then weld the remaining filling elements and apply permanent seams.
2. Before covering the frame, clean it from rust, apply a primer and paint it 2 times in the desired color. Attach a guide beam and gear racks for the drive to it, and then cover it with a profiled sheet.
3. Mount 2 roller supports from the kit on the load frame. Install the electric drive housing on the one closest to the opening.
4. Attach the top guide to the first post. It should be clearly above the support rollers; achieve this using shims. Lift the sliding panel vertically and place the beam on the rollers of both mechanisms, making sure that the top of the frame fits into the guide on the post.
5. Adjust the vertical position of the gate using the top bracket. Place the support roller at the front end of the beam, and close the rear one with a plug.
6. Having carefully closed the gate, try on and attach the lower and upper catchers to the second post (in that order).
7. Install and connect the drive motor, as well as the control panel.

After assembly, the height and horizontal of the sliding gate leaf can be adjusted using the roller support nuts. If you have a rear catcher in your kit, be sure to install it so that the canvas is maintained not only in a closed, but also in a fully open state. The installation process is clearly demonstrated in the video:

Conclusion

Work on installing cantilever sliding gates must be carried out with an assistant; you cannot do it alone. Pay special attention to the construction of the fence and pillars so that their centers lie on the same line, then it is easier to align the canvas. In general, installation cannot be called simple, so after purchasing the kit, read the manufacturer’s instructions and figure out which brackets go where. Also follow the recommendations for concreting and fastening all elements.

Related posts:

The problem of limited space is relevant not only for urban but also for suburban life. It can occur already at the entrance to the territory of your personal plot. At the same time, very often, the problem is aggravated by the presence of swing gates, which require a lot of free space to open. The situation is completely different with sliding structures, which almost always successfully solve a similar problem. From this article you will learn how to make sliding gates with your own hands and what is their main advantage over the traditional type of entrance gate.

Main features of sliding gates

Sliding gates are a modern and practical design that allows you to save a lot of free space required to open them. The peculiarity is that the gate leaf moves along the fence, while occupying a minimum of space. This is the main advantage of sliding gates over swing gates.

Modern classification involves dividing sliding gates into varieties according to the following criteria:

Degree of automation of gate opening and closing

Based on this parameter, two types of structures are distinguished:

• Mechanical;
• Automatic.

Mechanical sliding gates are the cheapest and simplest option. Opening as well as closing of such structures is carried out only manually.

Automatic sliding gates have much wider functionality than their mechanical counterparts. The person is only involved in pressing buttons.

Despite the fact that gates with an automatic opening mechanism are much more expensive than regular ones, they are one of the most popular types of designs today.

Interesting to know! The price of automatic gates depends not only on the features of the opening mechanism, but also on the type of automation used.

Automation for sliding gates

The door leaf moves using an electric drive, which can be started in the following ways:

Start button

The device is turned on by pressing the corresponding button. The disadvantage of this method is that the button is located directly next to the gate.

Remote control (RC)

This is a much more convenient option than the push-button method. The remote control allows you to open the gate from a distance. In this case, it should be located directly in front of the receiver. To stop the blade, limit switches are provided.

GSM module

It represents the most advanced way to control sliding gates. Distance here does not matter at all, and you can give a command to open or close structures from another country or even continent. The main thing is that the areas are provided with high-quality mobile GSM communications.

Construction and design of sliding gates

According to this criterion, sliding sliding gates are divided into three types:

• Rail;
• Hanging;
• Console.

• Rail gates- are the easiest option to manufacture. The shield together with the frame moves by means of rollers along a special guide rail fixed to the base. This type of construction can be used on various openings, but the most popular is the opening - the minimum width and height of which is 7 m and 2.4 m (respectively).

Gates on rails are not limited in terms of the location of the drive, placing the least load on it. However, rails of such designs require additional maintenance, especially in winter.

• Hanging gates- are very similar to their rail counterparts, except that the guide rail is placed in the upper part of the structure, and the shield together with the frame is suspended from it by means of rollers. Thus, such structures set certain restrictions on the height of passing vehicles, which depends on the level of the guide rail.

The drive mechanism is also located at the top, which significantly complicates the work associated with the repair and maintenance of equipment.

Installation of hanging sliding gates is most in demand on sloping areas and in openings of non-standard size.

• Console gates- do not have any restrictions in terms of the height of the opening. There is also no need to arrange a foundation along the length of the structure, this is explained by the absence of a guide rail.

The big disadvantage of cantilever-type gates is the need to install a reinforced support column, which supports the weight of the entire structure, as well as the presence of additional space for a counterweight and console. The standard console is in demand in openings with a height and width of 2.4 m and 6 m (respectively).

Number of sliding sashes

There are two types of sliding gates:

• Single leaf;
• Bivalve.

The second option, in addition to the additional sash, requires the installation of an additional drive mechanism, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the structure. That is why the demand for double-leaf sliding gates is less than for single-leaf ones.

DIY sliding gates (drawings, diagrams)

If you decide to install sliding gates with your own hands, do not forget that the convenient and long-term operation of structures is determined by a number of factors that must be taken into account.

To make a door leaf for a sliding gate, you will need a set of plumbing tools, which include:

• welding machine;
• carpentry clamps;
• grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
• measuring tape or tape measure 7 m long;
• chalk or pencil;

It is important to consider that the finished metal structure should not have any bends or distortions, so a perfectly flat area should be used for welding it.

Sliding gate structure (diagram): 1 - Supporting bracket, 2 - steel frame, 3 - lower catcher, 4.5 - supporting carriages (rollers), 6 - electric drive

Fabrication and assembly of the frame

As an example, consider the production of a classic sliding gate design with a counterweight, where the width of the entrance opening is 4 meters.

• To make reliable and durable sliding gates that will serve you for decades, choose steel pipes with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The best option is a pipe with a rectangular cross-section 60×40.

Welding work

1. Cut the side gate posts to size and lay them on the ground. Place the top and bottom strips between them so that you get an even rectangle. Please note that the bottom bar of the gate must be longer than the top, since the slope will be attached to it.
2. So that the internal corners of the frame are straight and have ∠90°, check both diagonals, they should have the same length. This way you will be able to avoid distortion of the structure.
3. Tack each corner with a welding point and check the diagonals again. If nothing has changed, you can proceed with the final welding of the frame.

1.3 - upper and lower bars, 2.5 - side posts, 4 - guide rail, 6 - oblique support

Concrete works

Sliding gates are a rather heavy structure and to prevent them from sagging, a reliable base should be installed under the retaining element on which it will rest well.

Such a base is made from a metal channel 20 cm wide and a reinforced U-shaped frame.

1. Using reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm, a special hook and knitting wire, a frame resembling the Russian letter “P” is made;
2. A channel is welded on top of the frame;
3. The finished structure is lowered into a pit and concreted so that its upper part protrudes 5-10 cm above ground level.

Important! Before using the laying pad for its intended purpose, the concrete must be allowed to dry for at least 2 weeks.

Locksmith work

The most difficult stages of the work are over; all that remains is to attach the pipes to the posts and install the gate leaf on the roller supports.

1. First of all, roller carriages are welded to the channel along which the guide beam will run;
2. Then pipes are attached to the support pillars: a single 60x40, and a U-shaped profile welded from pipes of the same size;
3. Next, catchers are welded to the top and bottom of the single pipe, and support rollers are welded to the U-shaped profile;

All welding and plumbing work can be carried out independently only if you have relevant experience in this matter, otherwise it is better to contact qualified workers who can provide guarantees for the work performed.

1. The end roller is inserted into the guide beam and securely secured with bolts. It works in tandem with the lower catcher and must fit into it accurately when the gate is closed.
2. All that remains is to lubricate all the mechanisms and install the gate leaf in place. If everything is done correctly, the gate should open and close smoothly and easily, without vibration or any jerking.

Important! Over time, the gate leaf may sag a little, so it is advisable to weld the lower catcher a couple of millimeters below the level of the end roller.

Automation and accessories

If desired, the process of operating sliding gates can be made even more functional and convenient if you use automated rather than manual control.

When choosing automation, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

• Weight and type of sash design;
• Conditions and frequency of operation of the gate;
• Operating temperature range and engine power.

If the leaf weight exceeds 400 kg and the gate is planned to be used in winter, it is better to use an industrial motor with a large power reserve, since the load increases greatly at low temperatures.

It is better to entrust the installation and connection of the electric drive to qualified specialists, although it is known from experience that many cope with this task on their own.

As for gate fittings, the service life of the entire structure will directly depend on its quality. You can purchase the necessary kit at any specialized store. Most importantly, do not forget to check with the seller about the availability of a certificate for the product.

Set of fittings for sliding gates: 1 - upper catcher, 2 - supporting element, 3 - toothed lower bar, 4 - lower catcher, 5 - end roller, 6 - guide beam, 7 - roller support, 8 - rollers, 9 - electric drive

Conclusion from what you read

If we take into account all the pros and cons of sliding gates, we can come to the conclusion that there are still more advantages. With its reliability and practicality, this type of fencing has long won the trust of professionals; moreover, this design will look modern and take up little space.