Once you see a blooming lavender in a pot and breathe in its delicate delicate smell, you will definitely want to plant this mountain flower from the southern shores of the Black Sea in order to enjoy the fresh healing aroma without leaving your home. What you need to know about growing a plant at home will be discussed below.

Heat-loving lavender comes from the mild warm climate of the Mediterranean and loves space, plenty of sunlight. It is a low-growing shrub up to 1 m high with narrow silvery-green leaves and purple flowers.

There are two types of flowers: English and French.

The English species has narrow leaves., and purple inflorescences have an elongated shape. English lavender is unpretentious and winter-hardy, suitable for growing in open ground, and even in the conditions of central Russia does not require digging up in the fall for wintering in pots.

French, unlike English, has wider leaves, lavender inflorescences and is shorter in size. In cultivation, this species is more capricious, when the air temperature drops to -15 ° C, the plant dies, so this species is grown mainly in pots.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantage of room lavender is its fragrant smell., exuded during flowering, has a calming effect and relieves headaches.

Lavender belongs to the essential oil plants and has a lot of useful properties.

Essential oil is made from flowers, which is used in medicine, aromatherapy, cosmetology and the perfume industry.

Lavender oil is used in the treatment of burns, joint pain and as a massage oil that helps to relax muscles and relieve tension in them. It has strong antimicrobial activity.


Growing a flower at home, you can cut and dry flowering shoots to use them:

  • for the manufacture of sachets - aromatic pillows to give a delicate aroma to linen and repel moths;
  • add to the formulations of herbal pillows that help with spasmodic headaches and fight insomnia;
  • use as a shoe freshener (putting them in shoes overnight removes an unpleasant odor);
  • as an additive to green and flower tea;
  • in cooking, add to pastries, salads, vegetable and fish dishes.

The plant has no drawbacks, except that individual intolerance to a rich bitter aroma.

Landing and care

There are several ways to grow lavender at home:


  1. cuttings. Cuttings 10 cm long are cut from the annual shoot, leaves are removed from the lower end. The cuttings are placed in a light, moist soil, covered with a film to maintain moisture and waiting for the roots to appear. Cuttings root easily.
  2. Seeds. Before planting, the seeds must go through a process of stratification, i.e. processing them with cold to increase germination. Seeds are placed in a moist substrate, covered with a plastic bag and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 1.5-2 months. After the stratification period, the containers with seeds are placed in a bright and warm place until germination. The grown seedlings dive into cups, and then, as they grow, they are transplanted into pots. Seedlings will bloom in 1-2 years.
  3. The division of the bush. You can separate a part of the bush growing in the garden and place it in a pot to grow in the house.

Growing lavender in a pot culture requires certain rules to be followed:

  • the brightest place is chosen, preferably southern windows, but in the summer, during the hottest midday hours, a little shading is required;
  • the soil should be light, nutritious and consist of 3 parts of leafy soil, 2 parts of humus and 1 part of sand, be sure to add 1 tbsp. wood ash or lime;
  • when planting a flower in a pot, there should be a good layer of drainage, excluding stagnant water.

Lavender loves calcareous soils, so it is advisable to add crushed eggshells to flower pots.

Plant care consists of:

  • in watering as the soil dries up, the flower does not like waterlogging of the earth;
  • top dressing: after planting and pruning, for a good growth of green mass, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, complex mineral fertilizers are applied before and during flowering;
  • in the spring before flowering and in the summer after the lavender is pruned to shape the bush and stimulate flowering.

Problems of growing in a pot at home

There are no special difficulties in growing a plant at home., but some of the nuances of planting and care are still worth considering.

  1. Since the plant loves space, and this applies not only to the surrounding space, but also to the volume of the pot. Lavender has a long root, if in the process of growth it rests against something, it stops growing, which means it stops growing entirely. Given this feature of the plant, pots for growing should be taken wide and deeper.
  2. The plant when growing needs direct sunlight for at least 8 hours a day.
  3. In summer, lavender should be taken out into the garden or onto the balcony, it needs fresh air.
  4. In winter, the plant needs the lightest window sill, the temperature is not higher than 15 ° C and moderate watering.
  5. From spring to autumn, flowers must be regularly fed, otherwise the plant may stop developing normally, which will necessarily affect flowering.
  6. You need to replant lavender annually, changing not only the soil, but also the size of the pot to a larger one.

In no case should the soil in the pot be allowed to dry out. Drying up the earthy coma of a plant even once leads to its death. No growth stimulants will help to restore the root system.

Protection against diseases and pests

Lavender is rarely affected by pests and diseases at home.. Infection of the plant with gray rot.

If the soil is waterlogged, the plant may be infected with gray rot. In this case, the affected stems are removed.

Having learned about the intricacies of growing lavender at home and making sure that there is nothing too complicated in this process, you can safely take on flower experiments. Having grown a beautiful and fragrant bush on your windowsill, you will not only fill your house with the smells of summer and the Crimean coast, but also provide yourself with useful flowers and leaves without leaving your home.

Lavender - how to grow this wonderful plant at home

Lavender is an ornamental and medicinal aromatic plant. Seeing lavender at its peak, it's impossible not to fall in love with its purple flowers and fresh fragrance. Read about how to grow lavender indoors and outdoors, potted and outdoors, from seeds, cuttings and layering.

Lavender (lat. Lavandula) is an evergreen shrub with narrow silvery leaves and spike-shaped inflorescences. Lavender flowers - all shades of lilac (from pale lilac to deep purple), as well as blue, white and pink. The nectar and scent of lavender flowers are extremely attractive to bees and butterflies. In addition to excellent honey qualities, lavender is drought-resistant and unpretentious, rarely affected by garden pests and is a valuable dried flower plant. Lavender angustifolia (English, officinalis) is also a valuable medicinal and aromatic plant. Growing lavender in warm, sunny regions is easy. In colder regions, you can grow lavender in a pot at home, and with some effort in the garden.

Lavender comes from the Mediterranean region, the Canary Islands and India. The name lavender is derived from the Latin word lava (to wash) and reflects the antiseptic and hygienic properties of lavender, which the Romans used for washing, washing and cleaning.

Lavender angustifolia (English) and other species

There are about 25 species in the lavender genus, of which the following are popular in garden culture:

Lavender narrow-leaved, English, true (Lavandula angustifolia, L. officinalis). This plant is most often referred to when they say lavender. Unpretentious and winter-hardy plant (from climatic zone 4 with shelter) up to 1 m in height and width, with small narrow leaves of gray-green color. The flowers of narrow-leaved lavender are narrow and elongated on long, thin, straight peduncles. Color - all shades of lilac and blue, pink, white. The whole shrub exudes a delicate fresh aroma and is of great industrial value as an aromatic and medicinal plant. Angustifolia lavender blooms in June - July. Famous varieties and varieties: Alba (white), Rosea (pink), Hidcote (dark purple), Beechwood Blue (purple blue), Imperial Gem (dark purple), Little Lottie (pale pink dwarf up to 30 cm in height ), Nana Alba (white dwarf up to 30 cm in height), Munstead (lilac-blue), Melissa Lilac (purple large-flowered), etc.

Broad-leaved lavender (Lavanluda latifolia) has a stronger fragrance than narrow-leaved lavender. Unlike the latter, broadleaf lavender bears 3 inflorescences per stem, not just one.

Lavender hybrid, Dutch, lavandin (Lavanluda x intermedia). A natural hybrid of narrow-leaved and broad-leaved lavender. Distributed in the gardens of central and southern Europe, less cold-resistant. Exceptionally ornamental and valuable industrial plant. A large plant up to 2 m in height and width) with narrow silvery leaves. The inflorescences of hybrid lavender are large and long, located on long peduncles bent under the weight of flowers. Hybrid lavender blooms a little later than narrow-leaved lavender, in July. From lavandin, an essential oil is obtained, which, however, is considered by some to be less valuable than lavender angustifolia oil. plant Varieties: Alba (white), Arabian Night (dark purple, blue), Richard Gray (dark purple compact), Sawyers (light purple), Grosso (purple purple with very large flowers).

Lavender Stehadskaya, French (Lavanluda stoechas, pedunculata) formed the basis of highly decorative varieties with unusual flowers with long bracts. Thanks to selective breeding, today there are varieties of Lavender Stahadsky with flowers of different shades of purple, lilac, pink, burgundy, green and white. French lavender also has a strong smell, but not as pleasant as English lavender. Lavender Stahadskaya blooms earlier than other types of lavender, in May. Flowering continues until July, and at the end of summer the second phase of flowering may begin. The limit of cold resistance of French sylvania is zones 6-7, so in the middle lane it can be grown in a pot.

Toothed lavender (Lavanluda dentata). A heat-loving, compact subshrub with soft, silvery, rugged leaves and fairly large flowers. Blooms in July. Lavender jagged is fragrant and highly decorative, but very thermophilic (cold resistance limit - zones 8-9), therefore it is recommended for growing at home in a pot. Popular variety Royal Crown with purple flowers.

Lavender. Growing at home, in a pot and in the garden

Lavender prefers open, sunny locations and light, neutral to alkaline soils with good drainage. Lavender broadleaf is the most hardy and undemanding: it can put up with partial shade and slightly acidic soils. But for the successful cultivation of French lavender and serrated lavender (in the Middle lane, as already mentioned, only (at home in pots) it will take as much sun as possible. From readers of the site, I know that English lavender is grown in open ground, for example, in the Samara region (climate zone 4) Lavender angustifolia will need shelter in winter, but the danger to this lavender in cold regions is not so much frost as damping off or excess moisture.

Lavender responds well to potash fertilizers, but nitrogen and manure should be avoided: they contribute to the growth of abundant but weak green mass at the expense of lavender flowering. In spring and autumn, it is useful to plentifully hill and mulch lavender, this contributes to the formation of new green shoots on the old trunk.

Lavender is a short-lived plant, in natural conditions it lives for about 10 years. In culture, the lifespan of decorative lavender can and should be extended with regular haircuts. A small pruning should be done immediately after the end of the flowering of lavender, and at the end of the season - one more, in which you can significantly shorten the stems, be sure to leave 4-5 new green shoots. You can not cut lavender to stiff stems, this will cause the death of the plant.

Occasionally, lavender is affected by gray rot or they lay their pennit larvae on it. Parts of lavender affected by gray mold should be removed and burned. To protect themselves from predators, pennits cover their eggs with a layer of foam that looks like saliva. This spoils the appearance of lavender, although it does no harm to the plant. Drops of white foam can be washed off the lavender with a hose.

Propagation of lavender. Lavender from seeds, stratification

The easiest way to propagate lavender is with the help of stem (air) layering. To do this, one of the branches of the bush should be laid horizontally, covered with soil on top, and a load (for example, a brick) should be placed on top. After a few months in moist and cool conditions, the lavender cuttings will take root and can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted. We wrote in detail about this method of plant propagation in a special article. You can propagate lavender by rooting woody cuttings or even whole branches that break off easily from the plant. So, I simply insert the lavender branches that broke off during the autumn cleaning of the garden into the ground, and next spring I already have a new lush lavender bush that will bloom that same summer.

It is quite difficult to grow lavender from seeds, the seeds require a period of stratification (low temperatures). In addition, only species lavender can be propagated with confidence with seeds. In my garden, English propagates by self-sowing. It happens like this: the seeds that fell off the plant in the fall, after lying down for a couple of months in the cold (in winter, the temperature usually drops to -3 degrees for several nights), germinate, and by spring, somewhere in the flower garden, I find a tiny bush of lavender, 2- 3 cm. Such a lavender bush can be transplanted into a pot, and after a few months - to a permanent place. To stratify lavender seeds at home, put them in a small pot of soil, moisten the soil, place the box in a plastic bag, and store it in the bottom of the refrigerator for a couple of months. When the lavender seeds germinate, the box can be taken out and placed in the light and heat.

Lavender at home, in a pot, in the garden

Lavender is perfect for gardens of any style, as well as for urban or balcony gardening. You can even create a low hedge from lavender. Lavender looks great in mixed flower beds, rockeries, apothecary gardens, as well as in pots and tubs. Grow lavender (or set pots of lavender) along garden paths or near doors: when touched, lavender exudes waves of exquisite aroma. It is believed that the strong smell of lavender confuses insect pests, so the plant is traditionally planted in vegetable gardens. Lavender looks great next to many plants. Most often, probably, lavender is planted next to roses.

Growing lavender from seeds at home is not difficult if you have space on a south facing windowsill or balcony and a 2 liter pot to start with. It is used and, valuable is extracted from it.

How to grow lavender from seeds

A pot for lavender should have good drainage and drainage, lavender does not tolerate stagnant water. The soil should be sandy-peat, with an alkaline reaction. You can add to the mixture. You can also add crushed eggshells to slightly alkalize the mixture.

Seeds must pass before planting. During planting, the seeds should be sprinkled with soil 3 mm thick and placed in a bright, cool place, covered with a film until the first shoots. Seed germination is weak, so it makes sense to send 15-20 seeds to the refrigerator.

Pour the seeds onto a damp cotton pad, cover with another wet cotton pad. First sprouting sprout

Before going to the refrigerator, put the wet discs with seeds in a bag. We air every 2-3 days for a couple of minutes. Sprouted lavender. 1 month

Grown up lavender, about 2 months old

When the lavender has grown to six pairs of leaves, you should cut off or pinch the top so that it bushes better. Young plants require mild but regular watering - early in the morning and evening, not forgetting to irrigate the green part of the plant. Lavender needs fertilizer.

Light should be at least 10 hours a day - you can help the plant in the evenings or on cloudy days. Make sure that the leaves do not burn from the hot sun.

My lavender falls asleep before wintering.

The first year, the lavender is rather inconspicuous, weakly branching, and in the second year it already blooms. The plant needs to be ventilated, but strong drafts should be avoided.

A year after sowing, the lavender should be cut to 15 cm above the ground, then your bush will be beautiful and thick. You need to prune just after flowering.

In winter, lavender can relax, for example, on a glazed balcony. The temperature should not fall below 5 degrees.

It is better to transplant in early autumn or spring, so that the plant has time to take root in a new pot before it blooms. Lavender is endowed with extraordinary.

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How to grow lavender from seeds at home on a windowsill: 54 comments

  1. Natali Waters

    Hello)
    I wanted to ask, I planted lavender, the seeds germinated well, but now the sprouts are starting to bend and wither (almost a month has passed since planting)
    I thought that due to the fact that I didn’t plant it too deep, and they don’t have enough land. Then she poured a little on top to hold, but they began to die from this even more.
    don't tell me what's wrong with them?
    maybe move to a warmer place?

  2. Vera

    Hello Jane!
    Thanks for the detailed information on growing lavender from seeds. Let me ask you about wintering bushes. Should I water them in winter? I read somewhere that you can even put in the cellar ?! True, it was about young bushes grown in the country in pots from cuttings (so that they do not freeze). I brought my bushes (three) to the glazed loggia (t is always not lower than 10 degrees). So now only one of them is left, and that one somehow looks very unimportant - it dries out somehow, although I water it a little .... How do your bushes overwinter and when (in March, April?) do they start to feel better? How much light do they need in winter? Thank you if you answer.

  3. Olga

    Girls, write how your lavenders overwintered?

    4. Blagodarna, who pishet o posadke semian lavandochki. Ja chitaju, vnikaju
    ,budu sazhatj vv fevrale, a poka lezhat na vatnyh diskah konechno vlazhnyh v korobke i v holodilnike.
    Spasibo vsem ikonechno, udachi.

  4. Elena

    Hello! Thanks for your info and great photos!
    I also really want to grow lavender from seeds at home. Only I live in the tropics.
    Do you happen to know how to proceed? :) I mean, there is no winter here, the sun is very hot and the humidity is high….
    Thank you! I will be very glad to your advice!

  5. Olesya

    I just bought some seeds. I don’t have time to stratify, I’ll leave it until the fall. But I just want to plant a few seeds. I don’t understand, should I immediately plant it in a pot where lavender will grow, or can I put a few things in a glass, wait until they hatch, and then transplant it into a pot (spike) ???

  6. Marina

    Hello, just recently lavender seeds came to me, please tell me, is there any point in doing something with them now or leaving them, as I understand it, until February?

    1. Jane Craft Posted by

      Try to sow several seeds at once in the ground, and leave some in reserve until the next season. But it may take up to 4 weeks to wait for the first shoots.

  7. Natalia

    Hello! Could you be more specific about how to prune or pinch off the top of a lavender when it has 6 pairs of leaves? It's just that I bought a pot of seeds for the first time, and indeed I started a plant for the first time. I wouldn't want to hurt him because of my inexperience. Thank you!

  8. Tatiana

    Hello, while planting seeds, the soil should be moist and how often (and is it necessary at all) to moisten the soil when the seeds are under the film ?? thanks in advance for your reply

  9. Christina

    Hello!
    Tell me, please, how to properly care for lavender in its first winter? This spring I planted lavender in pots, now they are good green sprouts. In what month should it be removed "for the winter"? What is the temperature regime? How often to water? And should it be cut?
    Thanks for the reply and post :)

    1. Jane Craft Posted by

      Sorry for the delay in answering. First of all, I just have to say that my lavender did not survive the winter. What was the mistake: instead of a cool, but not freezing balcony, I put it in the pantry. Sometimes it is necessary to water - I forgot about it for at least a month and a half. Well, I didn’t wait for her to come to her senses - I watched this cracker for two weeks, the leaves did not appear, and I broke up with her.
      I don’t know if I can now give advice on overwintering lavender, but the rules are as follows: by November, lavender will begin to dry out and you need to cover it with a bag and put it in a dark place with a temperature not lower than 5 degrees and not higher than 15. This is its natural wintering temperature. The soil must not dry out. At the end of February, we put it on the sunny side and wait for the young leaves. You can cut it, even in my first season it started up additional shoots precisely thanks to pinching.
      If I decide on lavender again, then I’ll probably play it safe - I’ll leave some of the shoots on the windowsill, some in the refrigerator (there is one, older than me, in which the temperature and humidity are just right)))).

  10. Christina

    Thank you very much for your replies :)

  11. Irina

    Hello, we live in a region where it is hot and dry, all my flowers are in the house in a closed area, but with floor-to-ceiling windows, air conditioning works. It is not very cold in winter. Seeds in the refrigerator for about a month and a half, so I’m thinking what to do - plant now or wait until spring, but probably this is too long a time for stratification ....

  12. Olesya

    Hello! I want to turn to you for advice. The idea to plant lavender came to me by chance - I saw the seeds on aliexpress, so I decided to order for the sake of curiosity. In general, I doubted that these were real seeds and did not hope that something would sprout. Therefore, I planted half a package at once in April. No stratification. Almost all the lavender came up, it turned out to be a lot and I had to plant it in one large pot. I didn’t pinch the tops, because I was on the road all summer, and my husband sometimes watered the lavender. Upon my return, I tried to transplant it, but the roots were closely intertwined with each other and they were so thin that I was afraid to damage something and left everything as it was. I cut off the tops a little, but it was too late, it had already stretched out a lot. New shoots are visible from the ground. Now I'm looking at it and I don't know what further actions are needed. It seems to me that it is too crowded in one pot, but I do not dare to transplant. And what to do with thin long stems? They spread like straw all over the pot, lush foliage at the tips, and the stem itself is thin like a toothpick, very long and woody.

  13. Natalia

    I found a great way for myself to plant lavender after failures with stratification. I prepare the ground, water it with very warm, even bitter water, put the seeds on top and sprinkle it with earth just a little bit .. Then I put the container in a bag and send it to the battery for 40 minutes. And then just on the windowsill. The seeds came out strong and did not have to wait long.

  14. Victoria

    Hello everybody!
    And I planted lavender without stratification. I had a small bouquet of dry. I shook him, got the seeds. Then I cut a pot into a box of 2 liters of juice, as it were. And she sowed, watered and covered the whole thing with a transparent bag. She left for 2 weeks, and when she returned there were already bores. I waited until there were 6 leaves and transplanted into pots. Some bushes did not take root, but now I have three of them. And two are already blooming)
    By the way, in winter, I brought them from the balcony and put them on the windowsill and watered them as the earth dried up. More precisely, I let it dry completely and only then watered it a little. Lavender was as if bald, inconspicuous. When the snow melted on the street, I again took it out to the balcony, and also watered it. Now I can not get enough)))

Lavender (lat. Lavandula)- a representative of the genus of plants of the family Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae or Labiatae). The name comes from the Greek. "Lava", which means "to wash", is due to the fact that in ancient Greece lavender was added to the baths. Botanists distinguish about 47 varieties of this plant. Lavender is native to the Mediterranean. Since lavender has not only a pleasant smell, but also certain medicinal properties, people fell in love with the plant and adapted lavender to life at home, or rather, began growing lavender flowers in pots and flower beds.

Growing lavender at home involves choosing an appropriate place, preparing seeds, and stratifying them. An important feature of growing lavender at home is the possibility of applying organic fertilizers.


Growing lavender at home is much easier if you are the proud owner of a summer cottage where you can grow lavender on an industrial scale and experiment with varieties. At home, everything seems easier, since you can pick up a special container, experiment with the use of drainage. And most importantly: at home, you have the opportunity to plant lavender in a sunny place where it will not need additional growth enhancers.

Many people think that lavender in a pot is a very whimsical plant and causes a lot of trouble, but this is a myth. It is quite possible to grow lavender from seeds in a pot on your windowsill: the plant itself is unpretentious. On average window sills and flower beds, we can most often find 2 types of lavender: broad-leaved And narrow-leaved. Both of these species germinate and bloom beautifully. We will talk in more detail about the main subtleties and secrets of lavender, about the rules of planting and care in this article.

Did you know? If you live in the North, or closer to the North, then narrow-leaved lavender is your best bet, as it is more winter hardy.

In which pot to grow lavender, we select the sizes


The roots of mature plants require a lot of space in order to be able to nourish the flowers and leaves. In order to properly care for and plant lavender, you should first choose the right pot or container, because even if your flower spends spring, summer and early autumn in the open field, you still want to remove it for the winter (which is not at all necessary, you can just cover the lavender from the wind) in the right and comfortable "shelter". This plant, from the very embryos, loves large pots and containers.

Important! Even if you are only going to plant lavender, choose medium-sized forms for this.

In order for lavender to receive proper care and planting, you should remember one pattern - the smaller the pot, the less space for nutrition and growth, the smaller the flowers. The container (pot) should be at least 2 liters in volume and about 30 cm in diameter. The pot should have enough holes to drain water, but gravel or drainage should not “close” these holes when planting.

How to choose a place for lavender


Many people believe that lavender is not meant for indoor living, but this is a myth. Yes, lavender requires some special care, but all plants require care! So, the main factor in the quality of your flower will be a place for its "life". Here, the opinions of botanists differ: some believe that lavender feels best in the open field, others - in apartment conditions.

In any case, the best shelter for lavender will be a sunny, wind-sheltered place. If you leave the flower outside for the winter, you can cover it. The soil in which lavender is planted also requires special attention: it is best to use a mixture of peat and sand and remember that the soil must be alkaline.

Did you know? It is better not to plant lavender on the windowsill, where there is a battery, as this will dry it out.


Lavender requires proper care and planting, which is carried out comprehensively throughout the growth and development of the plant. We have already mentioned the need for constant access of sunlight to the leaves and flowers of the plant, so it is best to place the lavender pot on the south side. In the summer, lavender is taken out to “walk” on the balcony. But walks should start from an hour, because if you leave the plant in the open air for a long time, it can fade from an excess of oxygen.

Lavender is very thermophilic, but does not like dryness. For winter, it is better to put lavender on the windowsill on the south side (if possible), but a temperature of 10-15 degrees will be optimal. But the temperature regime, lighting and place of growth are not all. In order for lavender to receive proper care and planting, it is also necessary to regularly feed the plant, cut cuttings, replant the flower from time to time and loosen the ground. It is also important to remember about humidifying the air, if you do not have a humidifier, you can use a regular spray bottle and spray the plant with clean water.

Important! If your flower does not have enough light, then for the winter period you can provide it with additional lighting, including a fluorescent lamp next to it.

top dressing


The main thing to remember about lavender is - the plant does not tolerate organic and nitrogen fertilizers. The necessary preparations for the growth and development of the plant are those that have potassium as the main component in their composition. The first time (8-10 weeks) after sowing seeds / planting seedlings, fertilize the plant once a week with liquid fertilizers, based on the calculation of 2 g (1 plug) of fertilizer per liter of water. An effective fertilizer will be crushed eggshells, which will maintain the balance of alkali in the soil. If your lavender grows in open ground, then it should be fertilized at the beginning of flowering with the same fertilizers (for example, Agricola) and after flowering (any mineral fertilizer) with a calculation of 3 liters per 1 bush.

Features of watering in winter and summer

Lavender only needs to be watered during the dry season, but don't think you need to water your lavender once a week. Of course, the flower will rot from too much watering, but the soil for indoor lavender should always be moist. Water for irrigation should be filtered or settled. If your plant is still young, then you need to water it twice a day: in the morning and in the evening.

Important! You need to water not only the roots, but also the upper part of the plant, so many flower growers recommend making a "rain" for the flower: once a week, take the plant outside (put the pots in the bath) and water the whole plant with a watering can, a thin stream of water. But in this case, you need to be extremely careful not to damage the leaves or color.


In summer cottages, caring for lavender also depends on the correct pruning of the plant, because if you cut the plant incorrectly, then there will be nothing to care for. Lavender pruning is best done in 3 stages: summer (the most important), autumn and spring pruning.

Let's start with summer pruning. In order to cut the lavender, we need gloves and ordinary garden shears. First of all, we cut off those branches that have small sprouts on the sides. We cut to these sprouts, then they will grow into a flower. If the branches of your plant have a tendency to bend, then you need to cut such a branch to the lowest sprout. We also carefully check the plant for the presence of completely dry branches, which also need to be cut. Usually such branches appear due to weather conditions or the age of the plant.

Did you know?Summer pruning allows you to collect the product, namely flowers and leaves, which are most useful during this period.

During the autumn pruning of lavender, the main task is to cut off all the flowers from the "falling" branches - cut to the bend. You can cut the lavender very short, you can not really, the time of the “rise” of the kidneys in the spring depends on it.


Spring lavender pruning is best done in late March (weather permitting). Spring pruning is more like cleaning, as it is aimed at removing dry, broken, rotten branches. Pruning in the spring is also carried out in order to "model" the shape of the plant.

How to plant lavender at home, plant propagation

A frequently asked question: how to plant lavender at home is as easy as shelling pears! All you need is a seedling, a cutting, seeds, lavender cuttings, soil (container), fertilizer, a shovel, a baking powder for the earth and a little basic knowledge and skills.

With the help of air outlets

The method of propagation of lavender by air layering is best used in cool weather, when soil moisture is highest. When using this method, you do not need to prepare cuttings or buy seeds, you just need to select the oldest branch (but living) on ​​an adult plant, cut a flower from it, dig a small hole and bend this branch there, sprinkle it with earth on top, water it every two days and fertilize a little 5-7 days after planting. This method sometimes works without your help: if you look under a bush of a mature flower, you will find a few sprouts there, as a result of self-seeding lavender.

Lavender cuttings


Many inexperienced flower growers immediately take up planting lavender flowers using seedlings. Most make mistakes, because you need to know not only how to plant a lavender seedling, but also how to get it right. For cuttings, you need to take only young, but already lignified annual shoots from a healthy bush. It is necessary to cut off the color from the handle (although it is advisable to choose shoots that have not yet bloomed) and strip the lower leaves by 3-4 centimeters.

For cuttings, we need a medium-sized pot, clay shards, soil (a mixture of turf, leaf and sand in equal quantities) and dry sand. We lay out the shards at the bottom of the pot, then we lay out the moistened sand (for better drainage), then the earth, we tamp. At 1.5 cm, we lay another layer of wet sand on top of the ground. Next, we take the finished cutting, process it with growth stimulants and insert it into the ground with the cleaned side.

Lavender is a perennial essential oil crop, semi-shrub. It is famous not only for its delicate Relaxing aroma, which moths and mosquitoes do not tolerate, but also for its medicinal properties. Its homeland is located on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, because the plant is quite thermophilic.

Although this useful and beautiful flower is finicky and problematic to grow, it is also possible at home in a pot. For good growth of indoor lavender, it is enough to take into account some subtleties and make a little effort. And these delicate flowers will decorate any window sill of a balcony or loggia. Indoor specimens are much smaller than street varieties, but no less decorative.

How to grow lavender at home

For regions where the winter temperature drops below -15 ° C, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the roots, because there are no frosts in the homeland of the flower. The right solution would be to grow bushes in ceramic pots or other suitable containers in order to be able to quickly hide them from frost. In winter, lavender shoots will do well at home in a pot on sunny windowsills.

Before you grow lavender at home, you need to decide on the variety. When choosing one of the many species, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of the area. French varieties are very thermophilic, while England and Portugal offer more resistant ones.

The most important attribute when planting is the container in which the bush will grow. It should be deep and wide, with a volume of at least 2 liters and approximately 30 cm in diameter. After all, the root system of lavender has a large mass.

For the violent flowering of domestic lavender bushes, the basic rules of cultivation are required:

  • Once a week, loosen the soil to ensure the flow of oxygen to the rhizome.
  • To maintain the humidity of the substrate at the proper level, laying a layer of mulch on top will help. Needles, sawdust or store-bought decorative substrate are suitable for this. The lower parts of the stems must be left open, otherwise, due to high humidity, they may be affected by mold or fungus.
  • To form a lush and beautiful bush, pruning excess, dry and weakened stems will help. Lavender can also be arranged in the bonsai style, because it is obedient and shoots grow well in any direction.
  • With the onset of winter, pruning of dried stems is carried out. In severe frosts, plants are covered or brought from the balcony (veranda) into the room.
  • To feed and fertilize the bushes, it is suitable to use, according to the instructions, any complex mineral preparation for ornamental plants (with the exception of violets). But at the same time, fertilizers should not contain organic matter and nitrogen. To accelerate growth and increase green mass, the introduction of potassium-containing dressings will help. Top dressing is applied to the root areas during the flowering period.
  • In the second half of July, feeding should be stopped, so the flowers can rest and successfully prepare for the winter.

Reproduction methods

Lavender is propagated by layering, cuttings, dividing the bush or seeds. Her layers are able to quickly take root and in the same year will delight with delicate fragrant flowers. Growing from seeds is more time consuming, but it makes it possible to choose any of the varieties that are commercially available.

Propagation with seeds

After sowing, the first sprouts appear after 50-55 days. With a great desire to grow one of the exotic whimsical varieties, strict adherence to all important stages of preparation and sowing is necessary:

  1. Seeds need to be stratified, for this they are kept in a cold place for at least 45 days. You can fill the seed with clean river sand, wrap it in a strong bag and store it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Cold hardening ensures friendly seedlings, because it creates a feeling of natural development conditions for plants.
  2. Light and soft sandy soils with good fertilizer are suitable for sowing. At the same time, the seeds are buried no more than 3 cm. Clay soil is categorically unsuitable. The most optimal mixture for the soil is as follows: 3 parts of hardwood, part of the sand and two parts of humus. The addition of lime contributes to the creation of ideal conditions for growth.
  3. The appearance of the first sprouts should be expected no earlier than in 30 days. Normal growth should take place at a temperature of about +15-+20°C and sufficient light with the presence of sunlight. It is better to place containers with seedlings on the windowsill of a well-lit south or east window. Partial shade causes the shoots to reach for the light, which leads to the formation of weak tall stems.
  4. Lavender does not tolerate strong waterlogging and. Good drainage is essential for stable growth in a container. For this purpose, pebbles, expanded clay, walnut shells are used, and the bottom is strewn with shards or fine gravel. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the drainage does not block the drain holes in the bottom of the container.
  5. To bring the emergence of seedlings closer, the pots are placed under glass or film. In this case, it is important to carry out airing twice a day.
  6. When the shoots have grown 5 cm and have formed a strong healthy equine system, it is time to transplant them into permanent growing containers. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 10 cm from each other, this is a suitable option for home cultivation.
  7. Now it is better to be patient, because in the first year of life, the plants are busy forming the root system and gaining strength. Lavender flowers will please the appearance after a year, or maybe a year and a half.

Now you only need simple care, which consists in maintaining the moisture content of the substrate at a suitable level and regular loosening.

The division of the bush

For successful propagation by dividing the bush, some preparation is required. In autumn, the plant is pruned at a height of 8-10 cm and sprinkled with soil. With the advent of spring, lavender is sprinkled again. These actions lead to the formation of numerous shoots. With the advent of the new autumn, the bushes will be completely ready for separation.

When propagated by division, flowering comes earlier than when using other methods. Adult bushes are carefully dug up and divided into separate parts. Before planting new plants in the ground, cut off the lobes of the roots so that they receive more moisture from the soil. At home, this method of reproduction is most convenient.

When the bushes gain strength and give the first inflorescences, you can try to propagate by layering.

Reproduction by layering

This is a very convenient and easy way. Grooves are made next to the bushes, into which some lower stems are bent, fixed in this position and sprinkled with a substrate. Plants will take root in these places. As early as next spring, cuttings are suitable for independent growth. They are cut off from the bush, dug up and transplanted.

Lavender in pots looks very beautiful and unusual. Although growing bushes at home and caring for it is not much more difficult than in the open field. The main condition is the acquisition of high-quality seeds or seedlings. Poor-quality seed may simply not sprout. And for good growth, it is important to observe the temperature regime and carefully care. If it is important to get a plant of a certain variety, then for complete certainty it is better to purchase already flowering bushes. And if you apply diligence and patience, the house will always be filled with the alluring aroma of excellent flowering bushes.