Considering the decoration of the walls in a wooden house, whether lining, drywall or plaster, you should pay attention to the advantages and disadvantages of one or another option. This article will focus on drywall - a finishing material that saves repair time.

Advantages.

The obvious advantage is the absolute symmetry of space and even walls, which is absent in a wooden house. Also, the frame makes it possible to additionally insulate the walls, if necessary. Electrical wiring can be removed under the sheets. Realistically mount lighting in the walls. The smooth surface of drywall when finishing gives room for imagination. Wallpaper, painting, textured plaster, hand-painted - this is just a small list of possible options.

Flaws.

Requires additional modification of the frame during installation. This is due to the mobility of the wooden walls. In a new house, until complete shrinkage, and this is about a year and a half from the moment of construction, plasterboard finishing without loss of quality is impossible.

Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling

In general, there are no special features. The frame can be made of wooden slats. Further, the installation of sheets occurs in the usual way. The only thing to consider is that the sheets of ceiling and wall drywall just fit together. It is not worth fixing them tightly. This is due to the fact that the walls in a wooden house "walk", and the horizontal surface should not depend on them.

In old wooden houses, the ceiling height, as a rule, is slightly higher than the average human height, so making a complex suspended ceiling will not work. In a new house, the height for a multi-level ceiling can be provided.

Features of laying in a wooden house

Even after the complete shrinkage of the new house, the wooden walls, as in the old house, periodically expand, absorbing moisture. And then they dry up, losing it. The maximum amount of height for which the mobility of plasterboard walls can be calculated is 6 centimeters. This is due to the feature of the fastener.

If you do not take into account the moment of periodic shrinkage of the walls, and simply attach the fixed frame to the walls, this can lead to the fact that the seams between the sheets will crack, even despite the mounting grid and other finishing tricks. Otherwise, there are no differences from mounting on other surfaces.

Project development in any finish option saves time, effort and money. The more carefully you approach the calculations, the easier and faster the repair will be. And the less materials will remain after it unused. Plasterboard wall cladding in a wooden house is no exception and requires special thought through the details.

Electrical wiring

Hiding electrical wires and cables in a wooden house will have to be in a metal hose. Plastic pipes and corrugations are not suitable for laying under drywall. This is not only dictated by SNIP, but also due to the fact that the slightest defect from an unplanned nail into the wall that damaged the cable can cause a short circuit. What it is fraught with for a wooden house is obvious.

Therefore, in wooden houses it is strongly recommended to do external wiring. Moreover, the modern building materials market makes it possible to make it an integral part of interior design, an additional decoration. For example, made in pseudo and retro style, twisted wiring using copper toggle switches has gained great popularity in modern decoration of country houses.

Frame Options

Wood. A frame made of wooden blocks is preferable in old log houses. The shrinkage of logs has long passed. Now the house only breathes. Yes, and claims to the level in such interiors, as a rule, are less fundamental. This option is cheaper.

Metal profile. The metal profile frame is chosen mainly in new houses. Or, if the logs of the walls are so diverse in size that they can only be leveled with the help of U-shaped suspensions.

Mounting the frame on wooden walls

The construction of the frame begins with the markup. From the ceiling to the floor in the corners of the room, marks are set using a plumb line. Rectangles are marked with a cord along the perimeter of the floor and ceiling. They measure the installation sites of vertical racks in increments of no more than 60 cm. In the case of very uneven walls, U-shaped suspensions are used to fasten the racks.

Next, CD and UD profiles or wooden blocks are installed. They are attached to each other. The next step is insulation, if it is provided for by the project. Thermal insulation materials are placed in the frame.

Tricky movable frame

There is one trick that professional builders are familiar with, often dealing with plasterboard walls in wooden houses. Or other materials that require the construction of a frame from a metal profile. It lies in the fact that the frame will be able to move during shrinkage. For this, special fastening systems are made. For one vertical profile, there should be as many such fasteners as there are points of contact with the wall that were included in the project. Usually at least 4.

This mount consists of the following materials:

  • connector of the first level - "crab";
  • closed sliding rafter bearing marked "PAZ 2";
  • hardware

Fastener manufacturing.

  1. Drill a hole in the crab with a diameter larger than the head of the self-tapping screw, to access the horizontal bar.
  2. Cut off the ear at the bar. Not a crab is attached to the wall, but a plank.
  3. Drill holes in the bar with a diameter larger than the thread of the self-tapping screw.
  4. Insert the fastener into the profile.
  5. Attach the crab to the fixed part of the support.

The profile is fastened with crab hardware after installing the entire frame. This is done so that it is possible to mount interior items on the walls.

Plasterboard sheathing

Previously, referring to the design calculations, drywall sheets must be prepared and, if necessary, cut.

  1. Using a ruler and a mounting pencil, draw a markup.
  2. Make an incision in the top layer with a mounting knife.
  3. Break the sheet. The core of the sheet is made of gypsum, so it will crack exactly along the notch.
  4. Bend the sheet at an angle, cut the reverse cardboard side of the sheet with a mounting knife.
  5. Draw markings on the cut sheets at the places of the intended joint at a distance of 10 mm from the edge.
  6. Make an incision with a mounting knife.
  7. They also make a chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees.
  8. The uneven surface of the chamfer can be processed with sandpaper.

As with mounting on any other surface, the sheets should be properly staggered, or at least slightly offset. At the junction points, both sheets should go and fasten to one profile. The minimum distance at which the screws should be from each other is 25 centimeters. More often is better.

Finishing

Before you start finishing plasterboard walls in a wooden house, make sure that all electrical wiring points are in place. Dismantling a finished wall because of one forgotten outlet is an unpleasant experience.

A groove is formed at the junction of the sheets. It is necessary in order to fill it with plaster during the finishing and drown the sickle a little in it. This measure will protect the joints of the seams from cracks in the future. Also, all the recesses above the self-tapping screws are filled with plaster. The finishing even layer of putty will give an even color to the walls. This is especially important when painting.

Before gluing wallpaper on drywall, the walls must be properly primed. Any primer will do. In order for heavy non-woven wallpaper to hold better, the walls should be smeared with an additional layer of glue.

Before applying textured plaster, the walls are also primed. For hand painting, several layers of paint are applied to the wall, which will serve as the background for the drawing.

If, after reading the article, you still have questions about how to level the walls with drywall in a wooden house, you can ask them here. If you have any comments, based on personal experience, be sure to share them here!