From the moment of human development, when he began to actively use his hands in work, the results of his work became more and more complex, more perfect and more beautiful. At first, the purpose of making this or that thing was purely practical; later we began to make objects of art just like that, for aesthetic pleasure, without any hidden use for them.

Forged metal products have always been valued and admired. This is also due to the fact that looking at a high-quality forged item, we involuntarily imagine what a huge amount of work was done. After all, metal is metal and it is not as malleable as, say, wood.

DIY metal rose forging

Artistic metal forging of roses can be done either from a single sheet of metal (which is more difficult to perform) or from component parts. The second option will be considered here. The whole rose will consist of four elements:

• a stem, which will be imitated by a thin iron rod;
• metal leaves on the stem;
• stars at the base of the bud;
• three four-leaf shapes cut from a sheet of metal.

Forging a rose from metal, process

Naturally, artistic forging of rose metal, and indeed any work of this kind, begins with a drawing of the future product. The principle by which the clover-shaped elements presented below will be cut is that they will be of different sizes, depending on the size of the planned product. If we correspond to the average natural size of a rose, then the first part will be about 80 millimeters, the second 90, and the third 100.

First you need to find thin metal sheets with a thickness of approximately 1 to 1.5 mm. Then make markings of the shape shown in the photo, corresponding to the above dimensions.

You can cut it with a plasma cutter; if you don’t have one, then use either metal scissors (if the sheet lends itself) or carefully cut it out by welding. It is preferable to cut with scissors and choose a sheet of metal that is soft enough for this, this will guarantee the accuracy of the cut.

1. After cutting out the elements, their edges must be cleaned. This can be done using a grinder. The end result should be a shape like this.
2. On the left is the element after cutting with a plasma cutter, and on the right after cleaning the edges (with a grinder disk).
3. The asterisk must be marked on the same sheet. Its diameter will correspond to the largest size of the element, i.e. 100 millimeters. It will look like this.
4. The next step is to stamp the texture of the petals using this hammer.
5. It turns out that this is the surface on the edges of future petals.
6. Now we have come to the most crucial moment. At this stage, the bowl shape of the cut out elements is formed. This is achieved using a special shape and a rounded hammer.
7. Due to the fact that the elements are of different sizes, the smaller one should fit freely into the larger one.
8. Now the most interesting and creative part of the work: Shaping the petals by folding them. To do this, you need to heat the workpiece and use a hammer or tongs to shape the future rose.
9. The final part of the work will consist of bending the base (star) and painting it in the color you want after the product has cooled.

Photos of finished products of various shapes and configurations

In order to decide on the shape, size, and color of the future product, it would not be amiss to see how other people make forged roses. They may differ in color, be quite dull or, on the contrary, very bright.

For example, this one is made in bronze color with rather large petals.

This forged rose is the exact opposite of the previous one. She has a huge bright red bud on a neat, thin gilded stem. Looks great.

You can make a rose on a solid round stand, as in the next photo.

• The stand can also be made with a recess, in the shape of a plate, so that you can put small things there.
• The gilded color of the forged rose is perfect for a gift. Complete with it you can make a stand for a rose.
• The bronze color of the rose will perfectly decorate the living room.
• Forged candlestick, which is decorated with a bronze rose.
• A gilded bronze color would also be an unusual solution.
• The stand may not be solid, but in the form of a twisted rod. Looks good too.
• A very original idea. A wide twisted rod at the base of the rose with an abrasive pattern on it.
• This type of rose imitates a rose just beginning to fade, thanks to the petals hanging down to the ground at the base.

Today we will tell you how to make a rose from metal with your own hands.

Hello readers!

In this article I want to tell you how you can make beautiful roses from metal without any special skills in working with metal! (Video of the process at the end of the article)
For motivation, at the end of the article I will show you my first rose and the one I made just recently. Along the way, I will talk about my observations and those things that I did not immediately understand, but they significantly improved the appearance of the flowers.
And also at the end I will place a block with frequently asked questions that you might have while reading.

And so, let's go!

Materials required for making roses from metal:

• I make my roses from cold-rolled black metal sheets 0.5 mm thick;
• For stems I use smooth A1 reinforcement and 6 mm binding wire. diameter for forging stems with spikes and texture. For simpler options, 5 mm binding wire is quite suitable.

Equipment and tools necessary for making roses from metal:

• welding machine (in fact, if you are smart, you can do without a welding machine, but that will be another story.);
• Bulgarian;
• metal scissors;
• needle nose pliers;
• pliers;
• felt-tip pen / scriber.

You, as a DIY master, can completely do without one or the other: an angle grinder can replace scissors, pliers can replace thin-nosed pliers. The only difference will be in the labor intensity of some processes.

And since we have discussed the instrument and I touched on the topic of improvisation, I will add that in fact this article is not a panacea, not strict instructions. This is a motivation letter describing technological features! The most important thing when working with a metal rose flower is not to try to replicate me or yourself. Be more relaxed. Let your movements in your work be even slightly careless, the petals crooked, and the bends of different widths. It is these movements that will breathe life into your flower!

My rosebuds consist of the following number of plates with petals:

• outer first leaf - 5 rose petals, circle diameter about 12 cm;
• second leaf - 4 rose petals, slightly smaller in diameter, about 11 -11.5 cm;
• third leaf - 4 rose petals, diameter 11-11.5 cm;
• fourth leaf - 3 rose petals, diameter 10.5 cm;
• fifth leaf - 4 rose petals, narrow like a propeller and about 9-10 cm in diameter;
• five-leaf star - it will serve as a leaf on the outside. Diameter 8-9 cm.

Metal rose leaves look like this:

• For one flower I prepare 2-4 branches of leaves, 2-4 leaves on each. Most often I use 2 branches of 3 leaves. Some average number so that the flower is not empty and does not seem like a whole bush. Again, decide for yourself, try it on, try it.

Forged metal rose stem:

• On average, I take the stem length to be about 50 cm. This makes the flower quite large and beautiful in the end with the size of the bud that I wrote above.

I also made flowers of 30 cm and 60 cm. This is the beauty of working with metal. We have a lot of options for you.

Let's start making a rose from metal.

• First of all, I usually mark out squares for future rosebud petals. I make 3 squares 12x12 cm and 3 squares 10x10 cm. To make it easier to drill a pack of similar shapes later.
• After cutting out these squares, I stack them and mark the center. After which I drill all the workpieces at once to 6-7 mm. Ok, drilled. Since I make quite a lot of flowers, I have ready-made templates so that I don’t have to mark the sides of the petals every time; this is especially tedious when working with cinquefoil.
• I trace the outline and start cutting. I don’t particularly try to get into the line; in the finishing process, all the curvature of the rose petals will turn into their beauty.
  From personal experience I can say that it is most convenient to first cut out a circle along the outlined outline, then you should cut out one side of the rose petals from the outside to the center. Then turn the workpiece over and cut the remaining sides in the same position. You will immediately understand what I mean when you try to cut the blank along the contour without turning the sheet over. At first it will be inconvenient, because there is no marked outline on the back side. But your hand will get used to it. Mine is used to it.
• Well, the rose petals are cut out. Now let's take on the leaves. I always draw them by hand, since symmetry is not needed there, and I also cut them along the contour with scissors.
  I will also note here that do not be afraid to bend the metal in your hands when you follow the cut contour with scissors; later we will straighten everything out before further work.

I like to get everything ready first and then start assembling and welding as the final step. Therefore, I also cut the stem to the required length, heat it in different ways: welding, simply. I've tried it all. Everything is working. And I give texture to the rose stem. I crush him mercilessly! After this processing, the rose stem turns out to be of any shape with an interesting pattern. If you continue to bother, you can weld spikes by simply fusing small bumps and processing them with a grinder.
I use petal circles for this job. I clamp the grinder in a vice and rotate the stem with my hands. In this way it is possible to sharpen the spikes to a sharp state.

To add texture to the metal rosebud, I use a makeshift anvil, which I scored with the sharp end of a hammer. So I just put the petal on the anvil and tap the back side with a rounded hammer. The texture is perfectly transferred from the anvil to the petals.

I make a notch on the leaves with a chisel and use thin-nose pliers to twist the rose stems into a tube. Many blacksmiths make welded leaves in their practice. The version that we make with you turns out to be more sophisticated and prettier, more lively.

Time to assemble the finished metal rose!

I clamp the rose stem in a vice so that the tip barely rises. And, following the sequence, I assemble the bud, welding each layer through a drilled hole to the stem and the previous layer of petals:

• first I lay out the star-leaf;
• then cinquefoil;
• large quatrefoil;
• large quatrefoil;
• trefoil;
• propeller leaf.

Do you feel like you've almost made a flower? Yes it is! All you have to do is play with the shape of the bud and everything will be finished.

One by one, fold the first leaf on top and use thin-nose pliers to bend the edges. Then we bend the trefoil and also bend the edges with thin-nosed pliers. And so on... Don't get hung up on one form. Try it, even if you like the rose flower in the form that is in front of you now. Believe me, there are a lot of interesting shapes. They suit different colors and occasions differently.

Metal rose bud on a stem. All that remains is to add the leaves. Add to taste; it’s impossible to overdo it or not. Are you an artist. You know better =)

Often I am asked to paint flowers in classic colors: red bud and green stem. We should not forget that in an attempt to catch up with nature, we can only show the shortcomings of a flower in front of the uniqueness of a living one. It's up to you, but now I've finally given up on painting. I try to highlight the graceful appearance of the metal by displaying it. Sometimes I brass the protruding parts. It turns out to be a very beautiful expensive vintage flower. And if it is practically impossible to give a living flower any shape, then look what you can do with our metal roses, which we made with our own hands!
(only a small part of my options for performing work)

Answers to questions asked:

1. Why don't I take 2 or 3 mm. ?
   Many blacksmiths always take on thick metal, belittling the dignity of thin metal. Any execution option has a place to be. But thin metal is both lighter and easier to work with, and therefore, at a minimum, it is easier to learn from it.
2. Why tie wire (heat treated)?
   It can be given texture without heating, since it is much softer than simple steel reinforcement.
3. Why is it important to make the outer leaf of a rose with 5 petals?
   The more outer petals on a leaf, the rounder the rose bud will be. With four petals, the bud turns out to be square. More than 5 - it will no longer look like a rose.
4. How to cover a metal rose with brass with your own hands?
   There is a little trick for which we need a brass drill brush.
   We heat the metal a little and start working on it with a brush. Brass transfers very well to metal and coats it with a quality brass layer. The more you heat the metal before brushing, the yellower the brass will be. Don't overdo it, or you'll burn it.

All photos and video materials from this article were taken by me, as well as the flowers in them.

Metal is a rough material. To turn it into a delicate flower requires a special talent of the master who works with it. In this master class we will show you how to make a flower out of metal with your own hands. The result of your work will be a beautiful and elegant feces.

Materials

To work you will need:

• thin sheets of metal;
• metal rods or rods with a diameter of 6 mm;
• white, green and yellow paint;
• primer for metal;
• marker;
• paper;
• metal scissors;
• stationery scissors;
• welding machine;
• hammer;
• anvil;
• nozzle for grinding metal;
• grinder or hacksaw;
• vice.

Step 1. You will need to transfer the template of the stool leaf onto the metal sheet. First, you can draw it on a sheet of paper yourself or print the outline by downloading and scaling the outline picture from the Internet. Use a marker to redraw.

Cut the blanks with metal scissors. Sand edges if necessary.

Step 2. The steel rods will need to be cut into small pieces, approximately 45 cm long. Use a grinder as a cutting tool. Don't forget about protective gloves and a mask.

Step 3. The rod will act as both a pistil and a stem at the same time. To give it a realistic look, one of the ends will have to be processed. Using a hammer, vice and anvil, make several bends on it.

Step 5. Start forming the flower. To do this, thoroughly heat the cut piece of metal sheet with a blowtorch.

Under the influence of temperature, the metal will soften, and it will be possible to work with it. Ideally, it is better to heat it in an oven; if you do not have such equipment, make do with improvised tools.

Use pliers to bend the sheet. Try to bring the diameter of the lower part of the flower closer to the parameters of the rod.

Step 6. Place the rod in a vice and place the flower on it so that the rounded part is inside.

Step 7. Weld the elements together.

Step 8. While the flower blank is in a vice, use a blowtorch and pliers to give its petal a realistic shape.

Step 9. Using a sanding disc, sand down the welds on the flower. Additionally, you can go over the resulting workpiece with a metal brush or just sandpaper.

Step 10. Apply metal primer to the flower.

You need pieces of sheet iron with a thickness of 2-2.5 mm: 120x120 = 2 pieces, 100x100 = 1 piece.

Round rolled O10, square #10. Cut out petal blanks from the sheet.

We heat the rod O 10 and, stepping back from the edge by about 40 mm, we forge a transition to O8.

Then we clamp the workpiece in a vice and press the remaining end to O 12-13. Let's trim the boss and use a backing chisel to make an undercut at a distance of 5-10 mm from the edge - this will be the rod for the rivet.

Pull the rod back to #6-7mm.

When crimping, we roll the rod to Ø 6mm.

Now let's move on to the spikes. To forge a thorn, the stem is forged to 8, leaving part of the rod (l = 10mm).

Then, on the edge of the anvil, with two or three sharp blows of the hammer, we delay the protrusion. You have to hit very accurately.

Then we clamp the workpiece in a vice and install the protrusion through the guide (bar).

The spike is ready. We forge others (as many as planned) and complete the stem.

It's the petals' turn. On the petals you need to lower (make thinner) the edges and mark the veins. Well, it’s possible without veins, but I’ll do it.

Let's form the petals.

And also the lower petals.

And the middle of the corolla.

The time has come to “grow” the leaves. To do this, heat #10, pull the end onto a cone and leaving about 45mm, make a neck for the handle.

We break the workpiece, giving it the shape of a sheet.

We apply veins on the leaf.

And we pull back the stalk.

You can collect "to the heap".
Assembly procedure for a forged rose

Let's start assembling the flower. We clamp the stem in a vice, put the rims on the rivet rod and seal them. Let's rivet st.

With minimal skills in working with metal, you can make original and beautiful things. One of them is a rose, stylish and original. It will make a wonderful gift or home decoration. In this article we will look at how to create a rose from metal with your own hands. Information about drawings and dimensions is also provided.

List of materials and tools

We will need the following devices to make a metal rose with our own hands (a photo of the work being completed is presented in the article):

• Bulgarian;
• angle grinder;
• machine discs: grinding, cutting;
• drill;
• drills of different diameters, up to one centimeter;
• gas heating pad;
• round-nose pliers, flat-nose pliers, long-nose pliers;
• wire cutters;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• anvil;
• file;
• marker;
• welding machine.

Materials you need to stock up on:

• a metal rod (the stem of a future rose);
• sheet metal;
• unused motor oil.

List of parts and their quantity

To make a rose we will need the following parts:

• The first outer leaf has 5 petals.
• The second leaf is slightly smaller in diameter - 4 petals.
• The third leaf of the same diameter has 4 petals;
• The fourth leaf is slightly smaller in diameter - 3 petals.
• Fifth leaf (propeller of slightly smaller diameter) - 4 narrow petals.
• Five leaf star.

For the stem:

• Branches 2-4 pieces.
• Leaves 2-4 per branch.

Petal drawings

Four or more squares (depending on the volume of the rose) measuring 10 by 10 centimeters are cut out of sheet metal. Rose petals are drawn on them with a marker. A figure similar to a compass rose is drawn on one of the squares. This square will be the template for the sepals of the future flower. To achieve greater realism, you do not need to maintain perfect symmetry.

Use a grinder or a grinder to cut out the rose petals, but do not cut them all the way. After this, the blanks of petals, leaves and sepals are flattened along the edges. This can be done with a hammer on an anvil. With short blows of the tool, the tips of the workpieces are flattened, and then the texture of the leaves is applied to the metal surface with the pointed side of the hammer. It can be done on one or both sides.

If you need to shorten a metal rod, use a grinder. On average, the stem length is 40-50 cm, but this is a matter of taste. Then holes should be made in the petal blanks. They are performed in one of two ways: welding or drilling.

1. Welding. The electrode is brought to the center of the petal and the arc is ignited. Its thickness should be approximately three millimeters, pressing into the metal plate, it is pierced through. The set current value is 100 A. The hole is burned quite simply, so you should be especially careful that its diameter is not wider than the size of the stem. In order for the welding to be correct and the strength of the structure not to be affected, it is good if the holes are not perfectly even, since 50% contact is sufficient. To control the process, it is recommended to try the stem to the hole as often as possible.
2. Drilling. The hole is drilled strictly in the center. Its size should ideally match the thickness of the metal rod, which is the stem. The rod should fit tightly into the through hole, this will make the further welding process easier. If it turns out to be a little smaller, then drill more holes next to the hole and connect them together, checking the required diameter.

Cutting flowers and petals

After the petals have been given a characteristic structure, the outline is once again outlined with a marker, and the details begin to be cut out. There is no need to try to exactly fall into the line; at further stages of processing, the curvature of the petals will only make them more realistic. Experience has proven that it is easiest to first cut a circle along the contour, and then cut through the petals from the outside to the center. After this, the workpiece is turned over and the remaining sides are cut. Initially it will not be very convenient, since there is no pattern on the reverse side, but in the end everything will work out. Making a rose out of metal with your own hands according to the instructions proposed in our article is not difficult. But remember, the flower will look natural if you do not make all the details symmetrical.

Once the petals are cut out, you can move on to the leaves for the stem. They are drawn by hand, since symmetry is not needed here, and then cut out with metal scissors. Don’t worry that the metal may bend during the cutting process; later everything will straighten out and look as it should.

Assembling the rose, giving shape

A few centimeters are removed from the end of the stem and clamped with a vice. Observing the order, string the petals onto the tip through the holes made and weld each subsequent layer to the previous one.

They start with a five-leaf star, then come a five-leaf star, 2 four-leaf leaves one after another, a trefoil and a propeller petal. When all the petals are collected, a rose bud is clearly visible. All that remains is to give it a more natural shape.

Starting from the center, alternately roll the petals into a tube and bend the edges. Next comes the trefoil: the petals are raised up, and their edges at the very edge are bent outward. You shouldn’t get hung up on a certain shape, no two colors are the same, it’s better to play with shape and texture.

Anti-corrosion treatment

In order to preserve the appearance of the rose for a long time, it must be treated with an anti-corrosion compound. This can be paint, special spraying or varnish. However, most often craftsmen use motor oil; this processing technique is called “bluing”.

To do this, you need to heat the rose properly, cover all its components with motor oil and reheat it so that the excess oil burns off. Since the component smokes strongly when heated, it is better to carry out the procedure outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. As a result, the rose will acquire a beautiful shade and will be protected from corrosion.

Rose made of thin tin

If you don’t have a special device, but really want to make a rose out of metal with your own hands, you can also do without welding. To do this you need to take a thin sheet of metal.

To make a rose from thin tin you will need:

• cans;
• pliers;
• metal and regular scissors;
• wire;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• nail;
• ruler;
• templates

Technique:

1. Tin cans are cut, unfolded and templates are applied to them. All details of the flower and stem are outlined on the blanks, and then cut out.
2. Using a nail and hammer, holes are made in the center of the parts.
3. Using scissors, notches are made along the edges of the leaves, and veins are made in the center with a screwdriver.
4. Using pliers, the stem and leaves are bent inward, forming a branch.
5. The ends of the star are made thinner by turning them inward with pliers.
6. I make the inner rose petals from the strips.
7. The petals of the flower rise up, forming a basket.
8. The wire is cut into pieces: 3 pcs. 25 cm long and 1 pc. 35 cm.
9. The ends of three short wires are twisted into a coil, and the longer one is wrapped only on one side.
10. All blanks are twisted to form a stem. The curls at the bottom are unrolled, thus making a stand for the flower.
11. The stem is tightly wrapped with a thin wire along with the branch, not reaching the end 4-5 cm.
12. Finally, the parts are strung together, starting with the star. The end of the wire is hidden inside the flower.
13. The finished product is coated with paint from an aerosol can.

As you can see, creating a rose from metal is quite easy. Even with fragile female hands you can make a beautiful flower from a thin sheet of tin. The most important thing to pay attention to is to be careful. Working with a sharp iron is a dangerous activity.