Needs winter shelter. This reduces the risk of being left without a crop, and sometimes without the bush itself. With the onset of spring heat, it is important to have time to do the most necessary work. It is difficult to set exact dates, because The weather can be not only sunny and warm, but also very cold. And the timing of the awakening of plants depends on this.
You can not postpone the spring garter shoots of grapes to the support
Removing winter shelters
There are many ways to shelter table and technical grape varieties for the winter. With all options, it is important to raise the vine in time. This winter, I did not cover those bushes that grow in the open field. I decided to insulate only the root system, pouring a thick layer of dry, loose bedding of horse manure and shavings under the bushes. For two years, she managed to partially decompose.
It is necessary to rake the mulch to the side, freeing the base of the bush
Raise and tie shoots
In autumn, the vine bushes were cut short and the shortened shoots were removed from the supports. Under the weight of huge snowdrifts, they were crushed to the ground. In the spring, the grapes need to be picked up before the buds begin to swell. If you miss this moment, then many buds and fragile sprouts will break off and end up on the ground. And we need to save the entire "strategic reserve" without loss.
Swollen buds break off easily
When tying overwintered shoots to a support, I first use those strings or other material that is easier to work with. Later I can replace them with a more attractive soft wire in a green braid or with a beautiful cord.
First I tie up the main shoots
The tie of the grapes to the support should be so loose that it does not injure the vine. The goal is to keep the shoots in the right position. Details at this stage are not so important, because. the grape bush will be formed during subsequent pruning (sanitary and corrective) and garters. Now it is important to give the shoots the direction that will be maintained in the future. Several thin shoots can be slipped over stronger ones. The vine at this time is so flexible that it can withstand even strong bending.
In spring, the vine shoot is so plastic that it can be bent at right angles.
The picture shows a shoot lying on the ground, which was pinned in the fall to get a layer.
I put the stone in order to press the vine shoot to the ground next to the place where it is pinned.
We cultivate the land around the bush
The land near the arch, near which grape bushes grow, is quite poor. The soil mixture contains loam (as a base), old broken brick, sand and with small pieces of coal. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to add organic matter in the form of two-year-old horse manure mixed with hardwood shavings.
I had to free all the lower parts of the shoots from the "horse chestnuts" and shavings, and then sprinkle the ground under the bushes with sand. Dusting with wood ash is also useful.
A stray cat follows us on our heels
Weeding required. It is necessary to remove those that managed to gain strength this week. The list included lemon balm, mint, garden forget-me-nots, colorful yarrow, rudbeckia and some other cultivated plants.
We'll have to remove forget-me-nots and muscari
During weeding and loosening, it is easy to damage the surface dew roots. Injury to these small roots does not harm the grapes. Moreover, their removal cathartic) stimulates the growth of lateral and calcaneal roots.
spring pruning
In the spring, everything happens at an accelerated pace. In the near future, a careful examination of the grape bushes and their preventive treatment with a strong solution of potassium permanganate and wood ash.
The issue of spring pruning is very important. During the period of active spring sap flow, I rarely use pruners. At this time, the wounds are poorly tightened even in the most “dry” varieties. It is better to immediately burn the cuts with a flame of a lighter or a match. You can fill with pharmacy greens. Ordinary garden pitch does not hold up well.
So the juice “boils” over some sections that did not have time to drag on in the fall
It is worth waiting for the full opening of the buds, then partial pruning of the shoots will not be so painful for the grapes. Cardinal pruning I spend only in the fall.
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Grapes in January
Prepare organic fertilizers (humus, compost, wood ash) and purchase mineral fertilizers (Kemira, Master, Novofert, Plantafol, etc.). Also in the coming season, you will need means of protection against diseases and pests (fungicides, acaricides and insecticides).
Check the condition of the planting material from time to time. When drying, moisten the root system of seedlings, if, on the contrary, they are too wet, you need to open them for ventilation.
If the weather is warm and sunny, uncovered grape varieties can be pruned.
During these months, you can check the condition of the shelter of the vines.
If snow falls, you can throw it on the bushes.
Examine the wallpaper. If they are faulty, repair them. It is also worth cleaning the wire from the remnants of the vine.
Inspect the vineyard tool for serviceability. If necessary, purchase a new or missing one.
Grapes in February
Continue the unfinished work in preparation for the new season in the vineyard, taking into account all the lessons of the previous year.
In room conditions, you can already start growing green seedlings (from cuttings).
From time to time check the condition of the planting material in the storages. The root system of seedlings should not be overdried and waterlogged.
You can also prune non-covering varieties.
Purchase the fertilizers you will need for planting grapes in the spring: superphosphate and potash fertilizers.
Purchase enough pest and disease control products in advance. They should be bought from reliable stores so that you can be sure of their quality. From mildew, oidium and anthracnose: "Quad-rice", "Cabriotop", "Horus", "Strobe", "Flint", from oidium: "Topaz", "Tilt 250", "Vectra", from a tick: "Neoron ”, “Omayt”, “Thiovit Jet”, from thrips: “Nurel D”, “Fastak”, for eradicating spraying from all diseases and pests “Dnok”, “Nitrafen”.
Grapes in March
It is advisable to finish before the beginning of March or in the first week pruning uncovered grape varieties, in order to avoid spring weeping of the vine.
Inspect the trellises for serviceability and free them from garters and vine residues, if this has not been done before.
Purchase seedlings of the desired varieties in advance so as not to look for them in April - May, when it is already necessary to plant.
Check the availability of the necessary mineral and organic fertilizers, both for planting and for feeding grapes throughout the year.
It is also necessary to purchase in advance for the entire season the missing means of protection against pests and diseases, while there is still time and little work in the garden.
Decide on the place where you will plant the grapes. This should be a well lit area.
Prepare supports and wire for installing the trellis. You will need it for tying grapes.
Grapes in April
Open the bushes at the beginning of the month, as soon as the soil dries out and if colds of up to -10 ° C are not expected for the next week. This applies to earth shelters on chernozems and loams. Shelter with peat, sawdust or needles is removed before the eyes swell.
In early April, in the grooves from which the earth was taken to shelter the bushes, add organic matter and mineral fertilizers and sprinkle with earth.
You can make liquid top dressing by combining it with water-charging watering. A Bundles of vines, without untying, attach vertically or obliquely to the trellis. Clean them from the ground and plant residues with a brush if you plan to eradicate spraying from diseases and pests (with severe damage to the bushes).
Eradicate bushes for diseases and pests if they were severely affected in the past year. Use Nitrafen at the rate of 200-300 g of paste per 10 liters of water or Dnok. Processing is carried out at a temperature of about + 4-5 ° C
Bushes after opening may be covered with a white mold. After a couple of hours, weathered, the plaque will disappear.
In the second half of the month, when the likelihood of frost decreases and be sure to swell the kidneys, make a dry garter. Tie the sleeves obliquely, and all the fruit arrows - horizontally to the first wire of the trellis, while the ends need to be slightly bent down in an arc. In a well-formed bush, the fruit arrows fill the first wire evenly, without intersecting or overlapping one another.
In mid-April, you can start planting lignified grape seedlings.
Grapes in May
Start green operations early. The first fragment of extra shoots is carried out after bud break. Remove unnecessary swollen buds on perennial parts of the bush. Also remove the doubles and tees on the fruit arrows, leaving the most developed ones. Perform the next piece of shoots when they reach a length of 10-15 cm.
Spend the third fragment when the shoots reach a length of 35-40 cm. Thus, the load of the bushes with shoots and inflorescences is finally established.
Remove green shoots on the sleeves, as well as extra coppice on the underground part of the bush.
When 4-5 leaves are formed, treat the bushes from pests and diseases with fungicides. If there is no oidum, anthracnose, black spot and they did not rage last year, processing in the northern areas can be skipped.
When a grape mite appears, treat the bushes before flowering (in the phase of 9-12 leaves) with one of the acaricides.
Make the first tie of green shoots when they outgrow the wire by 15-20 cm.
10-12 days before the flowering of the grapes (at the end of the month), carry out a second liquid top dressing.
On growing shoots, remove stepchildren.
Remove extra upper inflorescences (2,3,4th) to regulate the load on the bush, and leave the lower ones when they are just beginning to differ.
At the end of May, finish planting annual lignified seedlings, and when the threat of spring frosts has passed, plant green vegetative plants in pre-prepared pits.
Grapes in June
Continue planting young vegetative seedlings
Pinch growth points on grapes (before flowering) by 5-10 cm on vigorous shoots. This is necessary for better pollination of plants.
Before flowering, you can make a foliar top dressing with "Plantafol NPK" (10:54:10, plus trace elements, flowering and budding) at the rate of 25-50 g per 10 liters of water.
Before flowering, treat the grapes with fungicides. This is due to the fact that during the flowering and berry-setting period, diseases and pests pose the greatest danger to grapes. But at this time, pesticide treatment is undesirable in order to avoid burns. And just during flowering in the northern regions, mildew and oidium appear.
As it grows, tie the shoots to the trellis.
Regularly carry out stepsoning. After flowering, you can make foliar top dressing "Planta-fol" (ovary, 0:25:50).
Normalize the harvest by removing excess clusters.
When overloading, first of all, clusters are removed on shoots, where there are two of them (the top one is removed - it is smaller), on replacement shoots, as well as on underdeveloped, damaged shoots with a small number of leaves above the bunch.
As soon as the berries reach the size of a pea, carry out a second spraying with fungicides: "Ridomil Gold" + "Topaz".
At the end of the month (during the pea season), feed the bushes with liquid. Take care of young plants planted in a permanent place. Water, fertilize and protect against diseases.
Grapes in July
During this period, it is important to protect grapes from fungal diseases. Processing is carried out in hot dry weather 20 days after the previous one. Using systemic drugs, more attention is paid to oidium. In this case, the drug "Flint" is more effective. In rainy weather, treatment is done after 15 days, using Quadris. It works well against mildew and at the same time protects against oidium.
Feed the grape bushes in early July, during the pouring of berries, with preparations containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium or "Master" (20:20:20,18:18:18) at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters.
For a quick effect, you can make foliar top dressing with Plantafol (20:20:20), Aquarin or Novofert.
It is also necessary to feed young seedlings planted in a permanent place with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 25 g per 10 liters of water.
Regularly carry out green operations: tying growing shoots to the trellis and removing stepchildren.
At the end of the month, early varieties of grapes are already beginning to ripen: Russian Early, Korinka Russian, Super Extra.
Grapes in August
Perform green operations: remove stepchildren, tie growing shoots to the trellis.
Feed fruit-bearing bushes at the beginning of berry ripening with mineral fertilizers without nitrogen.
In early August, feed young bushes planted in a permanent place with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, without nitrogen.
If it is clear that the plants do not have enough moisture (leaves lose turgor, wither in the middle of the day), carry out moderate watering with the simultaneous application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (5-10 g per 10 liters of water). Stop watering from the second half of the month.
In the middle of the month or at the end, mint.
If the vine ripens weakly, make foliar top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: potassium monophosphate or Plantafol (0:25:50). Treat once every 7-10 days on the upper tier of leaves.
Make the last processing of grapes from mildew, oidium on varieties of very early and early ripening (August 5-10) using "Quadris".
At the first symptoms of the appearance of gray rot, carry out preventive spraying with potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water).
From mid-August, early grape varieties are already ripening.
Grapes in September
On varieties of early-medium ripening, carry out all the same work as in August on very early and early varieties.
If an overload is found in the harvest of a particular bush, it is necessary to reduce the number of clusters on this grape. It must be remembered that, first of all, nutrients go to the ripening of the crop, and only after that to the ripening of the vine.
Carry out foliar feeding of grape bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, as in August.
When foci of oidium appear on bushes without a crop, treat with Flint, Strobe. Bushes with a crop are treated with colloidal sulfur or potassium permanganate.
In the first ten days of September, early-medium grape varieties begin to ripen: Nadezhda Azos, Talisman, etc.
Grapes in October
At the beginning of the month, plant lignified grape seedlings. The grapes planted in October take root well. Then the bushes must be covered with peat or needles. Dig up seedlings from the school.
Put them in storage or land them in a permanent place. It is impossible to leave plants for the winter without good shelter, since there is a high probability of their freezing. Covering a school is hard work. Also come with seedlings from layering.
Harvest needs to be completed.
If in the previous year the bushes were heavily affected by pests and diseases, carry out an eradicating treatment (see April).
After frosts and fall of foliage after 2 weeks, prune the vine.
If necessary, prepare cuttings of varieties of interest to you.
After trimming the covering varieties, remove the vines from the supports, tie them in an inclined state in bunches and lay them in the grooves.
If summer and autumn were dry, carry out water-charging watering (50-60 liters of water per 1 bush).
Burn all plant residues, leaves, cut vines. They are not used on compost, in order to avoid the spread of infection.
To reduce infection, dig up the soil between the rows.
Grapes in November
It is necessary to complete all work on preparing the grapes for wintering.
In the first decade of the month, complete the pruning of covering grapes (see pages 30-31).
Also, before the soil freezes, it is necessary to finish sheltering the bushes for the winter, if land is used. Where other covering material is used (peat, sawdust, needles), having previously made grooves along the trellis, you can wait with covering: a well-ripened vine can be hardened at temperatures down to -7-10 ° C.
Do the last watering of the season if you didn't do it at the end of October. Keep in mind that dehydrated grapes overwinter worse.
Clear the trellis of vine residue and remove the garters.
Tidy up all the tools you used to work in the vineyard and put them away for the next season.
Grapes in December
Prepare organic fertilizers (humus, compost, wood ash) and purchase mineral fertilizers (Kemira, Master, Novofert, Plantafol, etc.).
Also in the coming season, you will need means of protection against diseases and pests. From mildew, oidium and anthracnose: "Kvadris", "Kab-ryotop", "Horus", "Strobe", "Flint", from oidium: "Topaz", "Tilt 250", "Vectra", from a tick: "Neoron ”, “Omayt”, “Thiovit Jet”, from thrips: “Nurel D”, “Fastak”, for eradicating spraying from all diseases and pests: “Dnok”, “Nitrafen”.
Periodically check the condition of the planting material. When drying, moisten the root system of the seedlings, if, on the contrary, it is too wet, you need to open it slightly for ventilation.
In warm and sunny weather, uncovered grape varieties can still be pruned.
Inspect the trellises for damage. It is also worth cleaning the wire from the remnants of the vine.
How to care for grapes and harvest a decent harvest, despite the capricious climate, imperfect soil and aggressive diseases?
The task is not easy, but real. After all, on your side is the experience of winegrowers who have traveled this path before you. Top dressing, garter, treatment for diseases and pests, pruning, pinching, cuttings. We have prepared for you a calendar of the main works in the vineyard.
March
At the beginning of the month, if weather permits, start pruning uncovered grape varieties. It is important to finish it before the buds begin to swell on the bushes. If you linger, then active sap flow will begin. Then pruning can lead to “weeping of the vine” and drying out of the bush.
Pruning, breaking off and pinching shoots, as well as pinching are mandatory procedures for the formation of a grape bush If you are unlucky and the plant “weeps”, you can smear the cut with oil paint on natural drying oil with the addition of boric acid or use ready-made preparations, for example, “Artificial Bark”.
Also in March, you can start updating the tapestries, because. in the following months, the winegrowers usually have much more trouble.
Care of grapes in April
It's time to pay close attention to the thermometer and the weather forecast. If frosts down to -10 ° C are not expected, then it's time to release the grapes from the winter shelter and check how the plants survived the winter. If you find mold, do not immediately run for disinfectants and medicinal preparations. Most likely, it will disappear immediately, as soon as the bush dries and ventilates.
But preventive spring spraying of grapes special preparations- a prerequisite for a good harvest. Both the plants themselves and the soil around the bushes are treated.
As soon as the air temperature rises to 4-6 ° C, the first preventive spraying of the bushes is carried out with a 3% solution of copper sulphate. This will help protect the vines from diseases and rodents.
In the second half of April, after the buds swell, you need to tie up the sleeves of the grapes at an angle, and the fruit arrows - horizontally. In order for the grapes to develop correctly, they need a reliable support, which is most often the trellis. In addition to their main function, they provide light and air access to the leaves of the plant, and can also decorate your site by masking unsightly elements of the landscape and architecture. Tapestries are easy to make with your own hands.
Immediately after the swelling of the kidneys, you can plant cuttings harvested in the fall. This will allow you to get bunches of different varieties from one bush, save space in the garden, and also increase the winter hardiness of plants.
In the southern regions, from the end of April, you can start planting rooted cuttings of grapes. When choosing a site, it is important to consider that it is not only a heat-loving, but also a light-loving plant. Shrubs should receive the maximum amount of sunlight from early morning until three in the afternoon. Therefore, it is just great if you have the opportunity to plant grapes on a southern or southwestern slope protected from the wind.
Grapes have a powerful root system, so they will not be happy with their neighbors. It is better to settle it no closer than 4 m from other trees and shrubs. May grape care
When young shoots of grapes outgrow the first tier of wire, it is necessary to make another garter. At the same time, one must not forget to remove stepchildren and extra upper inflorescences, as well as to break off the grape shoots, removing all weak and coppice shoots (when they reach 10-15 cm). To do this, press your finger on the base of unnecessary branches, easily getting rid of them.
These shoots can be used to cut green cuttings, from which strong seedlings will grow by autumn.
In the last month of spring, characteristic red spots sometimes appear on the vine leaves. The cause is usually non-infectious or infectious rubella. In the first case, the plant simply signals you about a potassium deficiency in the soil. The entire bush is covered with spots, and the veins of the leaves become thicker. Over time, the vine may well die. Therefore, at the first signs of non-infectious rubella, it is necessary to change agricultural practices. You can start spraying plants with potassium nitrate (dissolve 20-25 g of dry fertilizer in 10 liters of water and consume no more than 1 liter of composition per sq.m).
Controlling non-infectious rubella usually requires no more than five vineyard treatments every eight days. The causative agent of infectious rubella is a marsupial fungus. He storms the vine in stages, so red spots gradually appear here and there. The leaves of a diseased plant should be treated with a 1% Bordeaux liquid or a 0.3% solution of copper oxychloride. It is important that the fungicide gets on both sides of the leaf.
In the spring, vines are quite vulnerable to fungal diseases, so it is important to pre-treat the bushes with fungicides before the flowers appear. Most often, grapes affect oidium (powdery mildew) and mildew (downy mildew). In the first case, colloidal sulfur or the complex preparation Quadris will help fight the disease. Downy mildew can be dealt with with Azofos.
summer grape care
June
At this time, the bush increases its green mass and becomes heavier. It is necessary to regularly tie it to the trellis, stepchild and remove excess clusters in order to prevent the shoots from breaking off.
Our help! Usually, the upper clusters are removed on the shoots, because. they develop worse, and the berries on them are usually smaller than on the rest.
When the berries reach the size of a small pea, you can treat the plants with Ridomil Gold or Topaz (according to the instructions).
In the summer, you can also carry out foliar top dressing (by leaves). For better formation of ovaries, you can use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, Ovary, or other similar means.
You should not be overly fond of watering, grapes do not like this. In most areas, it is enough to moisten the soil once or twice a month, but abundantly, so that the water is sure to reach the roots of the plant.
Our help! It is not advisable to water the grapes during flowering and shortly before it begins.
This month, it is necessary to treat the grapes with antifungal drugs (for example, Flint Star or Quadris), and then feed them with fertilizers containing the NPK complex (Aquarin, Novofert, Plantafol, etc. will do).
If grapes of early varieties (ripening dates) grow on your site, then at the end of July you can already expect the first harvest.
Grape care in August
From this month mass ripening of grapes begins. But it's too early to forget about the care of the vines. In the last month of summer, the bushes should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The same can be done if the plants lack moisture in hot weather (5-10 g of fertilizer must be dissolved in 10 liters of water). At the same time, it is advisable not to use fertilizers containing nitrogen, otherwise, instead of starting to prepare for winter, the plants will continue to grow green mass.
August is the time of minting vines (removing the tops of all shoots with 6-8 upper leaves), this procedure helps the plants prepare for winter.
In the last summer month, some diseases may also become more active. If you notice brown spots and gray spots on the leaves, as well as discolored spots on the vine, it is likely that your plants have become victims. gray rot. To combat it, you can spray the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water). If a light bloom appears on the leaves and clusters, it is likely that the vines are affected by oidium. In this case, the bushes that still have clusters are treated with colloidal sulfur, and complex preparations are used on the rest (Flint Star or Strobe - according to the instructions). From folk remedies, the treatment of grapes with ash infusion is considered to be a fairly effective and safe method (1 kg of ash per 10 liters of water, leave for 2-3 days, stirring occasionally).
September
The most pressing issue this month is the harvest.
If you see that not all clusters have time to ripen before frost, remove the weakest of them, this will help the rest to ripen In early autumn, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is still relevant. But the use of nitrogen fertilizers is better to postpone until the spring.
Grape care in October
The beginning of the month is the time for the autumn planting of grape seedlings. Read about how to do it right in our article Planting grapes in the fall: when and how to do it.
Late October - early November is an excellent time for autumn pruning of already growing grapes and cutting cuttings for winter rooting.
Older vines need help getting ready for winter. A couple of weeks after the foliage has fallen, you should cut off all the unripe parts of the shoots and dig the soil under the bushes to prevent the spread of infectious diseases.
You can treat the plants with a 3% solution of iron sulfate. This will help protect the grapes from fungal diseases. Some experienced growers claim that, among other things, bushes treated with iron sulphate are less attractive to rodents.
November grape care
Mature vines must be bent to the ground and sprinkled with peat or sawdust, or covered with spruce branches or spunbond. But before that, it is important to water the plants, because. dehydrated grapes endure the winter worse. It is also desirable to bend the shoots of non-covering varieties to the ground, and mulch the soil under the bushes.
In December, you can finally relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor. The only thing a dormant vineyard needs in the winter season is frost protection. Therefore, if you are not sure that the vines are securely covered, you can throw fresh fluffy snow on them. But if at some point you get bored without the traditional hassle and care of green pets, you can always organize a small home garden. And in February - again remember the grapes and start rooting the cuttings harvested in the fall at home.
We have already talked about grapes, more precisely, about pruning a plant, but this is far from the only method of caring for a beautiful shrub with sweet fruits. Let's continue the conversation and try to get better acquainted with ways to increase the yield, proper crop care, and also consider a special vineyard calendar created by experts.
From early spring to late autumn, grapes develop, fill with juices, throw out bunches of berries and ripen to bring us pleasure and enjoyment of the taste of wonderful fruits. But it also happens that tasty and high-quality grapes grow in poor conditions, without care, proper pruning, watering, fertilizing and warming for the winter. To achieve a good and juicy harvest, it is necessary to follow hundreds of rules, which are simply impossible to remember at once. That is why we will gradually remind you of how to properly care for the culture. To begin with, I would like to consider a year-round care calendar, which was compiled by experts.
grape care schedule
January
Prepare in advance all the necessary fertilizers for grapes: wood ash, compost, humus, as well as mineral fertilizers - "Novofert", "Master" and others. Do not forget that in the spring it will be necessary to treat the plant with remedies for diseases and pests. During this period, you should check the status: if they are too dry - moisten a little, if they are too wet - slightly open and ventilate. If the weather in January is warm, you can cut off non-covering varieties, and in cold weather, cover the already insulated vineyard with snow.
February
You can start preparing for the warm season: clean arches and stretches from old vines, prepare tools and fertilizers, remember the shortcomings of the past year and make every effort to avoid them again. At room conditions, you can start growing seedlings and check the planting material in storage.
March
During this period, pruning of non-covering varieties should be completed in order to avoid large sap production. Start selecting new seedlings for planting, determine their location on the territory of your site. Such places should be carefully prepared.
April
Covering varieties should be opened at the beginning of the month, only if frosts are not expected. This applies only to shelters on loams and chernozems: bushes covered with needles, sawdust or peat open before the eyes swell. Now it is possible to introduce organic matter into the planting sites, carry out water-charging watering of grapes and apply liquid top dressing. You should also spray with pests and diseases (it can be very weak in front of them). Processing should be carried out at a temperature not lower than +4–5 °C. In the second half of the month, when the temperature rises, you can make a garter. Sleeves should be tied up obliquely, young shoots - horizontally. At the same moment, you can begin to plant mature seedlings in the ground.
May
The beginning of May is the period when it is necessary to start green work. The first fragment of extra shoots of grapes is carried out immediately after bud break. Unnecessary buds should be removed from the perennial parts of the grape bush, extra twins and tees on fruit shoots, leaving only the most developed ones. The next fragment is carried out when the shoots reach a height of 15 cm, the third - with the growth of shoots of 35–40 cm. Also in May, you need to remove all excess above-ground shoots that have formed from the rhizome and start with fungicides. If last year was “clean” of diseases and they are not planned now, the treatment can be skipped.
Gradually continue to tie the shoots as they grow, throw the shoots on the arch wire higher and higher, make uniform ties along the wire. Do not forget to remove stepchildren on the shoots. 10 days before flowering, you can spend another liquid top dressing. During flowering, remove the upper (2nd, 3rd, 4th) inflorescences to regulate the load on the vine.
Toward the end of May, weaker seedlings, green vegetative plants, can be planted in the ground in holes that have been prepared and fertilized in advance. At this stage, perhaps, you can finish the spring care of the grapes and move on to the summer.
June
You can continue planting young and insufficiently strong seedlings. It is also required to pinch the buds on vigorous shoots - this will give a certain bonus during pollination. Before flowering, it is necessary to feed with elements that enhance flowering and budding; complex mineral elements can be used. At this time, it is better to once again treat the grape bushes with fungicides, since the damage during the flowering period is the most dangerous. Continue tying, pinching, after flowering, carry out foliar feeding. Try to remove extra clusters in order to ration the harvest, extra clusters should not be regretted at all. At the moment when the berries grow to the size of a cherry seed, spray with the following fungicides - Topaz and Ridomil Gold.
July
From the very beginning of the month, it is important to start protecting the bushes from fungal diseases. For this, systemic preparations are used (in rainy weather - 2 times a month). Flint can be an effective tool. During the pouring of berries, grapes should be fed with special preparations containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, for the best effect, carry out foliar top dressing with Novofert or Aquarin preparations.
Do not forget about feeding young seedlings that have recently been planted in open ground. Care for young grapes is also relevant. For this process, you will need mineral fertilizers (25 g per 10 liters of water). Pay attention to the growth of grapes, tie it up and remove stepchildren. At the end of the month, early varieties may begin to ripen.
August
Remember: caring for grapes in the summer is very important, so try to follow all the rules, because the fruit ripens right now and there is every chance of getting a good harvest.
At the beginning of the month, not forgetting about the constant green operations for gartering and removing stepchildren, feed the grapes with mineral fertilizers, and the newly growing, young ones with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Do not use nitrogen in either the first or second case. Now you can still water if you see that the plant needs moisture, but they must be stopped from the second half of August. With a weak ripening, you can again add top dressing to the soil - Plantafol or potassium monophosphate. Also treat the grapes from pests and diseases, use Quadris (a drug that copes quite well with oidium and mildew). At this time, it is time for the ripening of early varieties.
September
In September, all the same work is carried out on medium-ripening grape varieties as on early-ripening varieties in August. Do not forget to regulate the overload of bushes by cutting off excess clusters(First of all, all the nutrients that enter the bush should go to the ripening of fruits and the ripening of the vine). Repeat phosphorus-potassium supplements. In case of manifestation of diseases, treat the grapes with the preparations mentioned earlier.
October
The harvest is over. Immediately after this, if the bushes were affected by pests and diseases, they are again treated with drugs. At this time, strong seedlings from the school are planted in the ground, now they are well rooted. Young bushes should be covered with needles or peat. After harvesting, the necessary cuttings are cut from the old bushes, and the covering vine is laid in an inclined state in the grooves. Excess vine, residual plant material is dried and burned. It is impossible to use this material in compost in order to avoid possible infection. The soil between the rows is dug up. If the last months have been dry, watering should be carried out (40–60 liters of water for each bush).
November
Autumn grape care is no less important than summer. During this period, you should thoroughly prepare for wintering, so as not to lose fruit-bearing bushes and young, rooted cuttings planted during the current season. Now you need to finish pruning covering varieties. Also, before the soil freezes, the bushes should be properly covered. For this, a vine, needles, sawdust, peat, and earth previously bent and laid in grooves are used. Do not forget to make moisture-charging watering - grapes do not winter well without moisture. Now that the shelter work is done and the vineyard is ready for winter, you can start cleaning and cleaning the arch, repairing and updating the tool.
December
In December, all grape care consists of the same basic criteria as in January: preparation of fertilizers for the season, purchase of preparations and products, preparation of the landing site, humidity adjustment, and so on.
According to experts, if you follow this calendar, try to carry out top dressing and pruning on time, closely monitor the growth of seedlings and generally provide proper care for grapes, then the harvest from each bush will be significant.
How to care for grapes: bush formation (video)
How to properly water a vineyard
Grapes belong to those plants for which a special schedule has been drawn up for watering, that is, you can’t water the plant whenever you want if you want to get a harvest from a strong and “live” bush. For example, in industrial vineyards, watering is carried out up to nine times per season with an interval between waterings of 15 days. In home vineyards, watering should be done only at the peak of demand.
First watering carried out immediately after a dry garter, it is advised to combine it with fertilizing the soil with ammonium nitrate. At this point, the soil has not yet warmed up, and the plants may experience nitrogen starvation.
Second watering carried out after pruning, within 5-7 days.
Third watering it is desirable to carry out at the moment when the shoots grow to 25–30 cm. During the growth period, moisture is necessary. Also top dressing will not interfere.
Fourth watering mandatory before flowering (not at the beginning and not during flowering), otherwise the clusters will be rare without moisture. We add microelements, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, zinc salts and mag-boron along with irrigation.
Fifth watering occurs at a time when the berries of the clusters reach the size of a pea - due to timely watering, the berries will grow.
Sixth- softening of berries. Lack of moisture during this period can lead to a long delay in the ripening of the crop. We feed the grapes with infusion of ash, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
Seventh- after the harvest. This watering requires the addition of superphosphate.
Subsequent watering is carried out only if the last months have been dry.
It is necessary to observe not only the irrigation schedule, but also its correctness. On sandy soils, the procedure is carried out more often, but in small portions, on clay soils - abundantly, but less often. It is necessary to remember the specifics of irrigation: you can not pour water under the bush itself, especially if young grapes are irrigated. Water flows into the groove, which should be made around the bush, the distance from the bush is 30–45 cm, the depth is up to 20 cm. It is not recommended to water the vineyard with continuous flooding of the growing area - as a result, the air regime may worsen. Too frequent watering is also not recommended: it leaches all nutrients from the soil and causes the root system to rot, as a result of which the bush may die.
Fertilizer and top dressing
Fertilizers are a very important component of the proper care of grapes of any variety, after all, without the right top dressing, the vine will not be able to grow and gain juice, the color will be weak and start to fall off, and the berries will no longer form normally and will be small and few. Therefore, in order to ensure a stable and timely harvest, attention should be paid to applying the right fertilizers at the right time. It can be organic fertilizers - compost, manure, green manures, as well as mineral fertilizers of individual action. Even before planting seedlings, the soil must be well seasoned with all the useful substances that the plant will need for growth and fruiting.
How to feed young grapes
If young plants are placed in rich soil, then the first few years they will need only top dressing. Most suitable liquid top dressing. It can be slurry or water (1:3), ammonium nitrate (10 g per 10 l of water), urea (5–6 g per 10 l of water). The slurry must first be infused (a period of 10–15 days), then the solution is diluted by about 5 times and applied in portions of 1 bucket per 1 plant under each bush. To improve the penetration of dressings into the soil, small holes or holes are made around the bush.
How to fertilize fruiting grapes
The soil under the grapes is fertilized every three years(9–10 kg per square meter of planting). Simultaneously with organic matter, potash and phosphorus fertilizers can be applied. At the same time, it is better to apply manure in the fall, and compost in the spring. If the soil has been fertilized with organic matter since autumn, mineral fertilizers are not used in spring. If not, then in the spring you need to add 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 80-100 g of wood ash and 100-120 g of superphosphate per square meter. It will be more correct to apply fertilizer even before the plants are opened.In the summer, the grapes are fed after it has faded, and at the beginning of fruit ripening. 10 g of potassium salt, 25 g of superphosphate and 15 g of ammonium nitrate are added under each bush. At the beginning of maturation, saltpeter is not used. It would be best to apply such fertilizers to special recesses made with a crowbar.
Grapes: planting and care (video)
To provide the soil with calcium, lime must be applied under each bush (up to 150 g). If lime is applied to the soil in autumn, then it should be deepened by 20–25 cm, if in spring, then no more than 5–7 cm.
Successful viticulture is associated primarily with the creation of conditions in which the vine receives enough nutrition, light and watering. If any of the factors is disturbed, diseases and pests come. It is important to foresee the occurrence of damaging factors, focusing on weather conditions. It is easier to prevent a disease than to eradicate it. Therefore, there is a system for protecting the vineyard and its preventive treatment. It establishes how to spray grapes for diseases, and in what time frame.
Agrotechnics of grapes
The ancient grape culture has accumulated many diseases. All of them can be divided into infectious and depending on the conditions of detention, natural factors. Infectious diseases are that part of the living world that develop on a grape bush - fungi, viruses, bacteria. Prevention is aimed at combating these factors. Science suggests how and how to avoid defeat.
First of all, the place of planting the bush is of great importance. Preparing a planting hole with filling with the necessary nutrients is the key to the proper development of the plant in the first years. When planting cuttings in a permanent place, they are soaked with the addition of potassium permanganate from odium infection. The bush needs protection during the entire summer period until it leaves for the winter.
In order for the diseases not to adapt to the applied fungicides, they are used in turn. There are systemic fungicides and drugs aimed at specific diseases.
Fungicidal treatments are also carried out on fallen leaves, soil when laying vines for winter storage. Preventive spraying is carried out at certain periods of plant development.
- In the stage of bud swelling against odium and red grape mites.
- On the fifth sheet against mildew and gray rot, if it was in previous years.
- In the stage of development of inflorescences against ticks and odium.
- Before flowering against mites, major diseases, foliar top dressing, together.
- After flowering, systemic treatment with insecticides, fungicides with the addition of trace elements is applied.
- At the stage of the beginning of filling, a systemic fungicide is used, stimulating top dressing. In inclement weather weekly.
- When closing clusters with systemic fungicides and against gray rot.
Further processing is carried out, if necessary, with gentle means before harvesting. However, later, in preparation for wintering, systemic preparations are again used.
Preparations for processing grapes
All drugs for suppressing diseases are called fungicides. Among them are distinguished:
- systemic fungicides;
- contact fungicides.
The difference in the active substance used allows you to act on pathogens from the outside, and destroy the mycelium from the inside.
soda solution
As a preventive treatment at all stages of development, grapes can be treated with soda. As a result, a film with an alkaline reaction is created on which the spores of the fungus cannot germinate. You can spray the bush with a solution of 50 g of laundry soap and 50 g of soda per 10 liters of water before and after flowering every week. Such processing is also appropriate during the August appearance of signs of odium. Also acts on odium and potassium permanganate solution.
Another drug that should be in the kit of chemicals is iron sulfate. For grapes Yes the drug is indispensable. The need for iron vitriol in the agricultural technology of culture is due to:
- trace element in a soluble form, well absorbed;
- forms a film on the object after drying;
- delays spring bud break;
- fights mosses and lichens, fungicide.
This is the only composition of iron salt that is absorbed without changing into another form. As a foliar top dressing, it quickly enters the plant system. However, ferrous sulfate is used for grapes in the spring at a low concentration. Even before the foliage blooms along the bark, it is used at a concentration of 0.5-1%. In autumn, for processing, it can be used in whitewashing up to 3%, and for the destruction of lichens in 5% concentration. But a concentrated solution is used only in late autumn, when sap flow stops.
The spring application of ferrous sulfate delays the opening of the kidneys, and the plant moves away from spring frosts. It also works in high concentrations if spraying occurs immediately after the snow melts.
Colloidal sulfur for grapes - a contact drug
It serves to destroy odium spores and is used at the first appearance of signs of the disease. It is also used at the first signs of anthracosis, it has a detrimental effect on ticks. Colloidal sulfur can be applied simultaneously with copper fungicides. The solution is prepared in warm water with the gradual dissolution of the drug. Fresh working solution is used. In addition, for the purpose of prevention, sulfur can be used by applying it to the surface of the leaf blade using a fine spray. Colloidal sulfur for grapes creates a protective barrier for 10-14 days. 
When treating a vineyard with chemicals, one should not forget about individual protective measures. Inhalation of vapors, their contact with open areas of the body can cause allergic reactions and poisoning. If this happens, you need to rinse the body or eyes well. If swallowed, drink plenty of water with activated charcoal. After that, be sure to consult a doctor.
Thanos fungicide for grapes of systemic action
It is wash-resistant and can be used in wet weather. The active ingredient famoxadone forms an indelible film and is distributed evenly over the surface, protecting it from spore germination.
Cymoxanil penetrates inside the leaf plate and produces its therapeutic effect, moving inside. It moves from leaf to stem and reaches a uniform concentration every other day. In doing so, it binds pathogens within the plant. This is achieved by creating a capsule around the affected cells.
Fungicide for the vineyard Thanos is a drug for a complex of diseases. It should be applied to the grape leaf at least three hours before rain. It is used in joint treatments with other drugs that have an acidic reaction.
Fungicide Quadris
The protective effect of Quadris when applied to grapes consists in its systemic action against most spores and bacteria. The class of the new pesticide is strobilurins. The action of the active part is systemic. It can be used for preventive purposes and in the midst of an illness. During the day, Quadris 250 SC suppresses the disease. At the same time, it is a low-toxic drug that does not affect bees. In order to avoid addiction, the use of Quadris for grapes is alternated with Topaz or Rodomil Gold.
Falcon drug
Known for its innovations, Bayer has released a new systemic drug Falcon for grapes. Active ingredients comprehensively destroy all fungal diseases. At the same time, spiroxamine acts on false and American dew, tebuconazole and triadimenol inhibit the growth of mycelium.
The drug forms a film, is not washed off and is used at any stage of the development of the disease. A very effective Falcon for grapes is sold in a package of 5 liters. Since the fungicide is not cheap, only large farms can afford to purchase it in such a container.
Another drug of systemic action, aimed mainly at combating scab on fruit stone trees, was released by Syngenta. Horus fungicide for grapes is used to prevent rot. The active substance cyprodinil ensures the creation of a film on the berry. It can be used in prevention and for the treatment of vines. The drug is not washed off with water two hours after treatment. It is used at the beginning of the development of the brush and at the end, in order to prevent infection with white rot. The period of protective action is 7-10 days. The action of the drug begins within the first 36 hours.
From the "Rescuer" series, the Grape Rescuer is used in agricultural technology. Systemic drug against insects and fungal diseases. The package contains three ampoules:
- destroys insect pests;
- protects against fungal diseases;
- regulator and growth stimulator.
Grape Rescue Easily destroys aphids, spider mites and other systemic garden pests. The consumption rate is three ampoules per 10 liters of water. The drug should be used using personal protective equipment.
After treatment, the effect of the drug continues for 3-4 weeks, depending on weather conditions.
Using systemic preparations in accordance with the recommended doses and at the right time, you can get a healthy vineyard.
Protection of grapes from diseases and pests - video