LANDING AND CARE

Landing. Everyone who is engaged or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises, when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most suitable time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic is spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when young shoots have finished growing and strengthened. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding periods of flowering and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of rhododendron transplant times is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike others ornamental trees and shrubs, during transplantation, the root system is practically not damaged, the connection between the roots of plants and the substrate is not lost.

Thus, if the landing site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow just as well as in the old one. In long-term plantations should be planted only healthy plants with well developed compact root system. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.

Already before acquiring rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be reserved for their planting, and it is best to be guided by the landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be prepared accordingly.

Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.

Before planting rhododendrons, the soil should be carefully prepared. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group, a landing pit of the required size is prepared, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near large trees, the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. 1/2 of the pit is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m 3 of the substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can also be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The landing site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.

Rice. 15.Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - Properly planted rhododendron.

Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared pit, they dig a cell corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the root ball is covered on top thin layer(no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation after transplantation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading during irrigation, a small mulch roller is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.

If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much-needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left, so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.

With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted one at a time on the lawn, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.

With proper care, rhododendrons bloom profusely and bear fruit every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering in next year. To break out a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent down, holding it large and index fingers. At the same time, the fragile axis of the inflorescence breaks easily at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.

top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. For a long time even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require top dressing, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners at best used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that rhododendrons did not tolerate them. With the expansion of knowledge on the mineral nutrition of plants in nurseries, they began to carefully apply rhododendrons and mineral fertilizers. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality planting material for rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.

Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations on permanent place. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.

Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with a shallow, compact root system, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations. mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.

As the experience of the specialists of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. P. Stuchka and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.

What external signs Do Rhododendrons Indicate a Nutrient Deficiency? The most characteristic sign is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very little annual growth, flower buds are not laid, in August and early September there is an increased fall of old leaves.

The most accessible and widespread of organic fertilizers are old semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, are unsuitable, as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, which are characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process takes longer than the decomposition of manure.

If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes begin, and only then used for top dressing. For fertilizing rhododendrons, you can also use slurry by diluting it with water to a light brown color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.

If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured on the soil surface around each plant with a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate the soil, and the plants receive the necessary top dressing.

If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.

Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, so with a small amount of them, a lot of the nutrients needed by plants are introduced into the soil. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used for top dressing, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.

The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (potassium fertilizer solution should be even weaker). For fertilizing rhododendrons, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used. You need to start feeding plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity, soil and air can cause secondary growth of shoots. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many species of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K 2 SO 4 or a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 PO 4.

Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. To prepare it, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO 3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH 2 PO 4 are taken per 10 liters of water. A solution is obtained that contains the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7) .

Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m 2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

You can carry out top dressing in a slightly different way: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m 2 of the area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with mineral fertilizer solutions is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of covered ground rhododendrons. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.

Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds.

KONDRATOVICH "RODODENDRONS", Riga, 1981 (experience of introduction of rhododendrons in Latvia)

Landing

Everyone who is fond of growing rhododendrons sooner or later asks questions about transplanting, feeding, and caring for these wonderful plants. After all, the more care is shown to them, the more beautiful and magnificent they are, which means that they delight us more. As the experience of growing many breeders and botanical garden workers shows, a more favorable time for transplanting bushes in Russia is autumn (September-November) and spring (April-May), the time when plant development ends and young rhododendrons have time to get stronger. But you can plant rhododendrons at any time, trying to move away from the period of flowering and budding and immediately after it, since at this time the plantratit a lot of strength, and then increases the green mass. Such a long period for transplantation is due to the fact that the root system of rhododendrons is not large, but compact and dense, with a compacted root ball. Therefore, when transplanting rhododendrons, the connection between the roots and the ground is almost not damaged.

In this case, if the landing site is successfully and correctly chosen, then the plant takes root in the new place as well as in the old one. In the case of a group planting of rhododendrons, consider the distance between the bushes so that the branches flowering bushes do not interfere with the development of neighboring plants.

It is better to determine the place for planting rhododendrons in advance, choosing areas of the garden sheltered from strong winds, and also avoid a place where the sun is constantly intense.

Plots of soil for planting rhododendrons must be prepared in advance, that is, it is recommended to shed in advance. The bushes themselves are also recommended to be wetted, since well-watered plants tolerate transportation and transplanting more easily. If, nevertheless, it was not possible to avoid overdrying the root ball of the transplanted bush, then it should be immersed in water for several hours so that the plant gets drunk well. If a group planting of rhododendrons is foreseen, we prepare the entire territory, if planting between trees, then we prepare separately planting pits.

A pit for planting is dug 2 times deeper and wider than the size of the root ball of one plant. If the pit is located next to a large tree, it is better to protect it with slate or plastic; two layers of roofing material can also be used for this purpose.

It is desirable to add sphagnum peat, deciduous soil, rotted manure, heather soil, pine needles, humus, etc. to the planting hole.

It is advisable to use to fill the pit on? volume, and take the rest of the place to the soil from the previous place, at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m?.

Mixing can be done as landing pit, as well as outside of it. It is possible to prepare pits for planting rhododendrons in advance in the off-season (spring, autumn).

rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - Properly planted rhododendron.

The rhododendron should be placed vertically in the planting hole, then the place around the root ball is sprinkled with the remaining substrate and crushed to avoid voids in the ground. Top mulch with a layer of 5 cm trunk circle and water it abundantly so that the soil gets wet to a depth of 20 cm. Mulching with leaves, needles, peat is carried out after watering.

In the case of planting rhododendron during the flowering period, it is necessary to remove part of the buds.

When planting rhododendrons separately from each other at a great distance, the planted plants should be strengthened with pegs driven into the ground so that the wind does not interfere with the stability of the unrooted plant. After the rooting of the rhododendron, the peg is removed.

Care

Rhododendrons need spraying, shaping and feeding. It is recommended to regularly remove weeds near the bush.

If the planting of the rhododendron was done correctly and the place was chosen successfully, mulching was done, then they do not require special attention. Loosening the soil around the bush is not required, as this can damage its stability. Only occasionally can be watered in the first year of rooting in a new place and on hot days. The plant itself will tell you about the lack of watering, its leaves become dull, lose turgor. Rhododendron occasionally needs foliage spraying.

Bushes of the first year after planting are especially sensitive to a lack of moisture. An excess of moisture in the soil under the rhododendron leads to a lack of oxygen supplied to the roots. In this case, the plant will signal you about the problem with the fall and yellowing of the foliage, so it is very important to monitor the observance of the drainage layer during planting. If you notice stagnant water under a bush, try to gently loosen the soil without damaging the surface root system and let the soil dry out.

The frequency of watering depends on meteorological conditions and the rigidity of the soil in which the bush is planted. Water for irrigation is recommended to use soft and acidified.

The plant requires more frequent watering during the active growing season. A well-hydrated plant tolerates winter drought more easily.

The layer of mulch under the rhododendrons depends on the height of the plant. If the height of the plant is up to 50 cm, 4-6 cm of mulch is enough, if the plant is taller, then the mulch layer increases to 10-15 cm. In the case of growing a bush up to 2 meters high, the mulch layer can be 30 cmand remove the mulch in the spring.

pruning

Rhododendrons have a genetically correct bush shape. Young seedlings of rhododendrons can be pinched in the region of the central bud,so that the bush acquires the correct shape.

The plant needs pruning only if the crown is too large, then cut branches 2-4 cm thick in diameter. Slices of pruning rhododendrone needs to be lubricated oil paint or garden pitch, so that the cut is not infected. After 3-4 weeks after pruning, dormant buds wake up, and the plant restores its decorative shape a year later.

If it is necessary to renew old bushes, it is necessary to cut it to a height of 30-40 cm, and plants affected by adverse weather are also cut in the same way. In the first year, one half of the rhododendron bush, in the second year - the second half of the bush. This method facilitates the process of plant restoration.

Formative pruning of rhododendron is carried out at the end of March. Shoots are cut near dormant buds. During the growing season, be sure to feed the plant and water it abundantly to restore shape.

The rhododendron blooms every year. To avoid a decrease in the abundance of flowering, it is recommended to cut off faded inflorescences to avoid the formation of seeds.

When inflorescences are removed, more inflorescences are formed to next bloom. The rhododendron bush becomes more lush, as the formation of new 2-3 buds is stimulated instead of one broken off inflorescence.

top dressing.

For successful cultivation rhododendrons need to be fed, they are necessary for young plants and old ones, so rhododendrons will be able to show their beauty to the fullest, the flowers will be bright, the greenery will be healthy, flowering will be plentiful.

When feeding rhododendrons, it is necessary to apply fertilizers in small concentrations; a high salt content is unacceptable for these plants.

Rhododendrons need to be fed in the first year after planting, and after flowering, during the period of active growth of green shoots. All fertilizers are recommended to be applied in liquid form.

A clear sign of a lack of rhododendron feeding is the lightening of the foliage, a decrease in luster and a decrease in the growth of shoots, as well as falling leaves, and the absence of budding.

The most common organic fertilizer for rhododendrons is semi-rotted manure, which increases the nutritional value of the soil, improves the physical and mechanical properties of the earth. The soil becomes moisture and breathable, more loose. It is also recommended to apply horn shavings to the soil, as it has a long decay period and is an excellent source of phosphorus and nitrogen.

Organic fertilizers are applied in water diluted in water (1 to 15). After diluting the fertilizer, it is necessary to infuse it for several days in order to activate microbiological processes. Also, under rhododendrons, you can add diluted light-colored slurry Brown to feed the soil with phosphorus.

Before watering the rhododendron with fertilizer, it is necessary to water the soil well in advance so as not to burn the roots.

It is also possible to apply rotted manure in autumn under the bushes with a layer of 5 cm along the perimeter of the near-stem circle, then with the melting of snow, the substances will gradually penetrate to the plant.

Since rhododendrons prefer acidic soil, ammonium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate can be used. Use a concentration of 1-2:1000, and potash fertilizer dissolve even more.

Fertilize rhododendrons with early spring until the beginning of August. It can also be fertilized on a leaf, with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate KH 2 RO 4.

Wintering of rhododendrons

The abundance of future flowering depends on a properly organized wintering of rhododendrons.

Deciduous species of rhododendrons (Japanese, Daurian, yellow, Canadian) endure wintering more steadfastly than evergreens. They do not need to be covered, it is only worth covering the place of the root neck of the plant with peat or dry foliage. A layer of mulch should be made at least 15 cm.

Evergreen rhododendron bushes can freeze slightly in a cold winter. You can cover the bushes with roofing felt and other frame shelter, as these plants often suffer from strong winds and a thick layer of snow. Some gardeners make houses made of polypropylene or polyurethane foam to shelter the bushes.

It is possible to remove the shelter only when the temperature is above -10°C. In autumn, temperatures up to -10 ° C are not dangerous for rhododendron, and shelter can provoke warming. It is better to cover in mid-November.

It is better to remove the shelter in the spring in April, then the young leaves will not burn out in the sun and the roots of the rhododendron will already begin to absorb moisture. It is recommended to open the shelter in cloudy weather.

Rhododendrons are increasingly found in park areas and on garden plots in many regions of our country. And if those who grow flowers and shrubs in parks and squares know well how to take care of all flowering plants, then summer residents can not always produce the right autumn color for their flowering perennials.

This article was written to help them - it will tell you what kind of care rhododendrons need in the fall and how to prepare them for the winter.

Features of caring for rhododendron in the fall and preparing for winter

Many gardeners believe that flowering shrubs need care only during the summer, while they continue to bloom. And when the flowers have fallen, then you can do nothing further - the bushes in further care dont need. But this is not so, and this flower is no exception. It is on how the rhododendron is prepared for winter that the growth and abundant flowering of this perennial in next season.

And especially care must be taken in the fall about young plants that were planted in the current season. Moreover, you need to know which varieties of rhododendrons were planted.

Although most of these perennials are quite pampered plants, but recently breeders have bred varieties with high frost resistance that can withstand colds down to -35 C and below.

These bushes are evergreen perennials, so their foliage evaporates moisture during the winter. Therefore, watering the rhododendron does not stop not only in autumn, but also in winter.

Pruning rhododendron in autumn

Shrub pruning is one of the mandatory procedures to which all perennial bushes are exposed. And the rhododendron is no exception. Like other plants, it has three types of cutting:

• sanitary;
• formative;
• rejuvenating.

When it is better to carry out each of these procedures - you should understand especially. But usually this event is held either in spring or autumn. But during flowering it is better not to take pruners. The only thing that can be done in the summer is to remove dried inflorescences and broken branches. And, of course, you have to remove diseased aerial parts if pests or diseases attacked the bushes.

Why prune a rhododendron

It would seem that a lush flowering perennial does not need this procedure at all - it grows, blooms and is good. And even though broken or frostbitten shoots are visible in some places, they don’t really spoil general form this plant. However, this should not be said.

The purpose of any pruning is to maintain the beautiful shape of this perennial, remove all damaged or frozen shoots through which pathogenic microorganisms or pests can enter and cause irreparable damage to the plant.

A anti-aging pruning allows you to restore youth to a shrub that has already begun to grow poorly, practically does not bloom during the summer. So trimming this pink perennial is a necessary procedure. You just need to know which type of pruning of rhododendron is best done in spring, and which one in autumn.

When is the best time to prune rhododendron - in spring or autumn

It cannot be unequivocally said that these flowering shrubs should be cut only in spring, or only in autumn. You need to figure out when which type of these procedures to carry out correctly.

Sanitary pruning usually carried out early spring when it is already noticeable how the shrub endured the winter. All broken and frozen shoots should be removed. If the stem breaks off less than half, then such a branch can be saved. Usually, an elastic bandage is applied to the broken place, and a support is placed under the shoot. The support should be left for several seasons.

Frozen branches should be cut back to healthy wood. In deciduous varieties of these shrubs, the bark of the shoots can crack in severe frosts. In this case, it is necessary to cut out all damaged areas to living tissue.

Also in the spring after planting seedlings in open ground carry out start pruning perennial. In evergreen bushes, the crown is usually already formed, but deciduous shrubs sometimes have to be trimmed to give the plant more decorative look.

Formative pruning plants are carried out in March, when sap flow has not yet begun in the shoots. In this case, the branches are cut to sleeping buds.

But in this article we are talking about pruning rhododendrons, which should be carried out in autumn period. In autumn you can anti-aging pruning shrubs, all other types of this procedure for rhododendrons are produced in the spring.

Timing of pruning rhododendron in the fall

Anti-aging pruning of rhododendrons in the fall should be done in a couple of weeks before frost and 10-14 days after fertilizing the soil. Usually depending on climatic conditions in this region, the timing of this event can vary from late September to mid-October. Places of cuts should be covered with a special varnish-balm.

How to prune rhododendron in autumn - instructions and diagram

Anti-aging pruning in the fall should be carried out gradually so as not to weaken the rhododendron. Therefore, at the end of the first season, one half of the plant is cut off, and the other half the next autumn.

In evergreen shrubs, the shortening of old shoots usually awakens dormant buds from which new shoots grow.

Deciduous rhododendrons should not be cut radically - flush with the ground. To rejuvenate the old shoots of this variety of evergreen perennials, it is enough to shorten them by 0.3-0.4 m.

Pruning should be carried out with a well-ground secateurs, trying not to squeeze the wood of the shoots.

Video: preparing rhododendrons for winter - pruning in the fall and shelter

Important! To get a beautiful and voluminous bush, it is necessary for the first few years after planting the seedlings to pinch all the tops of the shoots in the first decade of June. And in the fall, remove weak young shoots growing inside the crown.

Care after pruning, top dressing

As mentioned earlier, evergreen varieties of this flowering perennial require regular watering not only in autumn, but also during winter (despite the fact that the ground may freeze). However, if the autumn is rainy, then you can do without watering the rhododendron.

On a note! Watering is done with soft, slightly acidified water with a pH of about 4.5. To do this, dilute a teaspoon of citric acid in a bucket of water.

For top dressing rhododendrons in autumn should be taken seriously. After all, it depends on the correct and timely application of fertilizers how strong and powerful the “rose tree” will grow, as well as the active and abundant flowering of its shoots. Under them, fertilizers should be applied in small portions, top dressing should be applied in liquid form, and not dry - then they will be absorbed by the root system faster.

The main signs that the plant lacks nutrients, is a change in the color of the foliage, inactive flowering, a small increase in new shoots, a massive fall of old leaves in mid-August.

Usually, at the end of flowering (at the end of summer), top dressing from mineral fertilizers containing superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 8 g of the first fertilizer and 6 g of the second are enough for a bucket of water.

In autumn, as a top dressing of rhododendron, you can add not completely rotted manure. It will simultaneously serve as mulch and fertilizer, which will completely decompose by spring.

In the last decade of September or in the first decade of October (a couple of weeks before frost), the “rosewood” should be treated with a Bordeaux mixture or any other fungicide that contains copper. This preventive measure will prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Shelter of rhododendron for the winter

It is necessary to cover the rhododendron for the winter in accordance with all the rules in order to prevent the bushes from freezing. And even if the variety of this shrub is frost-resistant, it is necessary to add a layer of mulch to the trunk circle. This precaution is to protect root system from freezing.

Do I need to cover the rhododendron for the winter

"Rose Tree" must be covered for the winter in order to preserve growth and flower buds from freezing and burns during the cold season. These buds appear in the plant already in the third decade of September. And if they are not protected from frost in a timely manner, then next season the bush may not bloom well, and the number of new shoots will be small.

Therefore, the timely shelter of rhododendrons for the winter is a precautionary measure that protects the plant from the cold and promotes active growth and abundant flowering of the "rose tree" in subsequent seasons.

Another purpose of shelter is to protect this flowering shrub from cold strong winds and too much snow, as they more often destroy rhododendron shoots than low air temperatures.

How to cover a rhododendron for the winter

Evergreen species of "rosewood" overwinter worse in cold regions than deciduous ones.

How to properly cover rhododendrons that shed foliage for the winter? To do this, it is enough to sprinkle bushes with a height of more than 0.8 m with a layer of peat up to 15 cm thick, and if the bush is more than 1.5 m high, then the protective layer should be at least 25 cm.

Important! Should not be spud or fall asleep protective layer shrub base. Better make it big river sand so that the bark on the trunk does not rot.

In the last decade of October - the first decade of November, when the air temperature is consistently low, all shoots are neatly tied. Bushes over 1.5 m high must be tied to a wooden stake. Varieties with flexible shoots are best tilted to the ground so that they hibernate under snow cover.

Near the bush, it is necessary to drive in a support and put any covering light material on the bush to protect the shoots from bright spring sunlight.

Video: how to cover rhododendrons for the winter

What are the features of preparing for winter in different regions

The main nuances of protecting these plants in winter and early spring are the protection of shoots and evergreen varieties from the rays of the sun, which can cause burns on wood and foliage. To prevent this from happening, middle lane(in the Moscow region), in the Volga region, in the Urals and in Siberia in the third decade of February - the first decade of March, it is necessary to shade the bush from the south and west.

In these regions, the following varieties are less susceptible to burning in early spring:

• dwarf;
• Vazeya;
• Canadian;
• Ledebour;
• Pink;
• Adhesive.

And large-leaved evergreen rhododendrons tolerate bright spring sunlight worse.

Typical mistakes in caring for rhododendron in the fall and in preparation for winter

Often beginners make the following mistakes when caring for rhododendrons in the fall and in preparation for the winter season:

• do not make top dressing under the bushes in the fall;
• forget about the need for autumn watering;
• do not cut the bushes in the fall;
• plants are not properly covered for the winter.

From right autumn care behind the "rose tree" and timely shelter for the winter depends on how this perennial will grow and bloom next season. Therefore, all necessary agrotechnical measures should be carried out in order to maintain the high decorativeness of these bushes for as long as possible.

Video: wintering rhododendrons

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How to feed rhododendron in spring and summer?

Rhododendron is a representative of the heather family, with delicate flowers of a spherical shape. This is a slow growing flower with a shallow root system, so it is important to regularly drain the soil, otherwise water and nutrients will not be fully supplied to the roots. The plant loves to be fertilized. In response, he always thanks with his bright beautiful buds. This article is about how to feed the rhododendron in spring for flowering, after flowering and in summer for laying buds on next year.

General information about fertilizers for rhododendron

The store sells a wide range of fertilizers for this plant. The flower reacts positively to their introduction. However, some nuances should be taken into account:

1. For feeding young rhododendrons, only liquid fertilizers are used, because they are better absorbed.
2. It is not recommended to use imported granular fertilizers in our latitudes. For the most part, they are designed for growing flowers in warm climates, when there are more hot days in the year. When they are introduced, the growth of new shoots is possible at the end of August, which will lead to their subsequent freezing with the onset of winter in temperate latitudes.
3. You can not fertilize the plant with ashes. It lowers the acidity of the soil, which in turn leads to chlorosis in rhododendrons. The disease manifests itself in the form of yellowing between the leaf veins.
4. Do not abuse superphosphates. In large quantities, they lead to a lack of iron, which is fraught with the development of chlorosis, especially on young leaves.
5. Do not use preparations containing chlorine and lime, because this will kill the mycorrhiza. Many varieties of rhododendrons love acidic soils(ph 4.5-5.5).

Rhododendron is fed three times a year, but the composition of the fertilizer varies depending on the period.

Top dressing in the spring during the laying of buds

Well suited fertilizer "Azofoska" with a ratio of 22:11:11 nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It will fill the soil with mineral elements, make the root system stronger, activate growth processes and extend the period abundant flowering. The preparation perfectly remains in soil and is not washed out too quickly.

"Azofoska" has the appearance of yellowish granules. This is a versatile product for spring feeding. Suitable for any type of soil.

Avoid applying high concentrations of fertilizer - this causes root burns, and in severe cases can cause death. Follow the dosage instructions on the package.

Of the specialized fertilizers, it is popular - "Rodo&Azalea AZet". Contains soil microorganisms and fungi. The preparation is granular, the consumption is as follows: 100 g of dry granules per mature plant. It is recommended to apply it at the beginning of the flowering season. This fertilizer saturates the soil nutrients for 4 months.

The second dressing after flowering - in late May (or early June)

The second top dressing contributes to the laying of buds with the beginnings of flowers for the next year. Universal fertilizer has the following composition: 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. These components can be purchased at a flower grower store. By combining them, you will get 80 g of fertilizer, which is enough for 1 square meter area.

Can be used instant fertilizer "Kemira-universal", which is recommended by many flower growers. It is diluted in water (20-30 grams per 10 liters), after which the plant is watered with the composition. More detailed instructions can be found on the packaging.

Organic fertilizers are also needed. The most popular option is the use of acidic high-moor peat.

Mature manure should be used with great care. For top dressing, manure is diluted in water in a ratio of 1 to 20, then insisted for several days so that microbiological processes begin in the solution. manure solution saturate the soil with nutrients, make the earth loose, improve its aeration. Superphosphate can also be added to it (300 g per 10 l).

When using manure, it is necessary to carefully monitor the ph of the soil. Such top dressing can greatly reduce its acidity, so it is often not worth it.

Suitable as an organic fertilizer for rhododendrons horn flour (or shavings). Unlike manure, this top dressing contains a lot of phosphorus, and the biodegradation process takes longer.

If possible, it is desirable to enrich the soil with fertilizers of organic origin, as they are better perceived by the plant. Just like mineral ones, they are best applied in a diluted liquid form. Before making rhododendrons, water thoroughly.

Third feeding at the end of July

During this period, fertilizers without nitrogen content are used. Good results give acidic drugs. 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate per plant are added to the soil. Such a composition helps to strengthen the shoots, compact their tissues, which has a very beneficial effect on the plant during wintering.

Mulching is carried out at the end of August. This helps to avoid freezing in winter, keeps the soil loose, prevents the formation of weeds, and retains moisture in the soil. Organic mulch is formed from pine needles. It takes 3 years to form. Organic mulch works well for rhododendrons, as they are acidophilic plants. It is important not to cover the base of the bush when mulching, because this can lead to scorching of the roots.

When fertilizing and mulching, do not additionally acidify the soil.

What you need to know about watering

The ideal option for watering rhododendrons is soft and acidic water, with a low salt content. tap water contains bleach and lime. It is too hard, unsuitable for watering. Therefore, it must be softened or used for irrigation rain, melt or running water. You can test the water for hardness with soap. If it lathers easily, then the water is of satisfactory hardness.

The use of hard water will kill the mycorrhiza. Subsequently, the entire plant may die.

Rigidity can be reduced in the following ways:

• adding concentrated sulfuric acid (H2SO4) 1 ml per 10 l;
• using oxalic acid (C2H2O4) at the rate of 22.5 g per 1 cubic meter;
• adding citric acid 3-4 grams per 10 liters of water;
• more affordable way to reduce rigidity - this is soil covering with acidic peat, 0.5-1 kg is taken per 1 cubic meter.

It is necessary to water rhododendrons abundantly, it usually takes up to 10-12 liters per adult plant. In case of severe drought, it is also advisable to spray.

What to do when the color of the leaves changes in rhododendron?

When a plant lacks one of the mineral macro- or microelements, its appearance. Common signs: yellowing of leaves, young shoots do not grow, buds do not bloom, shoots turn yellow, leaves become spotty, etc. Chlorosis is a common disease.

In rhododendrons, this disease can occur due to the introduction of lime or dolomite flour. These fertilizers shift the ph of the soil to the alkaline side, which the flower does not like very much. Acidity can be restored with the help of special acidifiers. Another way to acidify the soil is to application of sphagnum peat.

If the leaves have lost their luster, and brown spots have appeared on their edges, then this may be a sign of water deficiency or a lack of potassium.

If the rhododendron is originally planted on clay soil, then the leaves may turn yellow as a result of the intake of a large amount of aluminum ions. To return them to their former appearance, they should be used for watering. iron chelate solution.

What if the shoots grew in the fall?

Autumn shoots will freeze in winter, so their growth must be stopped. In order to prevent secondary growth of shoots, watering is sharply reduced starting in August. The last top dressing is made at the end of July. If the weather is rainy, then watering can be completely stopped.

All conditions are met, but the shoots still appeared? Then the rhododendron must be treated with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate or phosphate. This procedure will stop the growth of young twigs.

What happens if you stop fertilizing rhododendron?

If in the first years of life the rhododendron developed on soil rich in mineral elements, and then it was no longer fertilized, then the nutrient reserve would run out. The plant will lose its decorative appearance. The acidity of the soil will decrease and the plant will become sick. In the most severe cases, it can even lead to his death.

Now you know how to feed the rhododendron in spring and summer in July. Proper Care will give him the opportunity to develop faster, bloom profusely and look healthy.

To provide good growth, beautiful flowering and resistance of rhododendron to adverse external factors(pests, diseases) it is required to carry out mandatory feeding of the plant. For this, it is recommended to use organic and mineral complexes, as well as various growth stimulants. Uncontrolled use of fertilizers will only harm the plant, so you need to follow the basic rules.

Fertilization Rules

There are a number of rules for fertilizing rhododendron (azalea) that must be followed:

1. 1. Young shrubs should be fed only with products in the form of liquid solutions. They are better absorbed by the root system and absorbed by the plant.
2. 2. Do not use for azaleas growing in Russia, those compositions that are imported in granules. This is due to the fact that they are intended for other climatic conditions (for example, for those areas where there are much more hot days in spring and summer than in Russia). If you use such products, then at the end of August, the green mass may again begin to grow. Because of this, the branches simply do not have time to prepare for the onset of frost. As a result, the shrub will freeze.
3. 3. Cannot be used for top dressing wood ash. It is not applied to the soil around the rhododendron, because because of this product, the level of soil acidity decreases. This can lead to various diseases in the azalea. In most cases, with such an error, chlorosis develops, which is difficult to cope with. You can determine the presence of the disease by the appearance of yellowish streaks around the veins of the foliage.
4. 4. It is not recommended to use too much fertilizer containing phosphorus. They will interfere with the absorption of iron by the root system, which is contained in the soil. Deficiency of this substance also leads to the development of chlorosis. This is especially true for young shoots.

In the first year, when the plant is just being formed, it is imperative to fertilize the shrub. Otherwise, due to a deficiency of minerals, the leaves will turn pale and fall off.

Azaleas need to be fertilized 3 times. The first time to carry out the procedure should be after winter. Azofoska is required to be applied to the soil around the trunk. This is a mineral fertilizer of a granular type. It contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The product is considered universal, since it includes all components, necessary for the plant spring. Nitrogen is required to maintain and accelerate the growth of green mass and root system. Phosphorus and potassium influence the development of inflorescences and roots.

Azofoska has the following features:

• not washed out of the soil for a long time;
• contributes to the quality nutrition of the azalea, as long time located near the roots of the flower.

The composition can be added to any type of soil. It should be used exclusively in the spring, when the azalea is still only there is a process bud formation. You need to act exactly according to the instructions for the drug. Do not exceed the dosage so as not to provoke the appearance of a burn of the root system.

A bush in the spring can be fertilized with Rodo and Azalea Azet. It contains fungal cultures and special microorganisms. It only takes half a cup of this granular product to fertilize one plant. This volume is enough to feed the flower for the next few months. The substance must be applied to the soil when the bud is just blooming.

The next period when it is recommended to add fertilizer to the soil is the end of May or the beginning of June. At this time, the plant is already flowering. The compositions used should contribute to the laying of flower buds on the bush. They will be required for flowering next year.

1. 1. Mix 2 tbsp. l. ammonium sulphate with a spoonful of potassium salt and superphosphate. This amount is enough to process 1 square. m plot.
2. 2. Use the ready-made drug Kemira universal or its analogues. The composition is suitable for perennial flowering shrubs. The product is supposed to be applied under the plant after watering has been carried out.
3. 3. Use organic fertilizers. For feeding rhododendrons, compositions made on the basis of sour peat of a riding type are suitable. With manure, you need to work very carefully. It must be diluted (1 kg of the product is diluted with 20 liters of water), and then wait 3 days until the product is infused. Only after this fertilizer can be added to the soil.
4. 4. Dilute horn meal with water. It contains a large number of phosphorus, and the elements will decompose for several months.

The third dressing after winter is done at the end of July. During its implementation, nitrogen-containing products should not be used, otherwise the shoots will begin to grow again. It is required to add a couple of spoons of compounds that include phosphorus to the soil, add a spoonful of potassium salt. Thanks to this, new shoots that have managed to form during the season will become stronger and more resistant to frost.

After the last fertilization, it is required to mulch the place around the trunk of the shrub. To do this, you need to use rotted pine needles.

Mineral complexes

Both mineral and organic fertilizers are actively used to feed azaleas. The following minerals are commonly used:

1. 1. Iron chelate. It is used on clay-type soils so that azalea leaves do not turn yellow.
2. 2. Nitrogen-containing compositions. They need to be applied to the ground in the spring to stimulate growth.
3. 3. Potassium sulphate, magnesium and ammonium. These types of fertilizers are great for rhododendron, as they affect the level of soil acidity in favor of reducing the indicator.
4. 4. Phosphorus fats. Contribute to the acceleration of metabolic reactions of the plant.

Mineral fertilizer is a suspension in concentrated form. A minimum volume of product is required to enter the soil. At the same time, the earth is maximally saturated with useful substances.

Also for fertilizing rhododendrons use:

• potassium sulphate, calcium, magnesium and ammonium;
• potassium nitrate;
• potassium phosphate;
• superphosphate.

One of the most effective options fertilizing azalea is considered to be the use of a potassium-phosphorus solution of a buffer type. It contains substances that help maintain the optimal level of soil acidity for rhododendrons. When preparing a mixture for 10 liters of liquid, it is required to add 8 g of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate.

If fertilized various varieties azaleas located in one place, then the mineral solution must be replaced with dry fats. To prepare them, you need to mix 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and then add 40 g of ammonium sulfate. For one shrub up to 1 m high, 80 g of such a composition will be needed. The mixture must be spread over the ground in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. The tuk will penetrate into the soil when watering.

organic matter

Organic fertilizers are the cheapest and most available for feeding shrubs. Popular products that are used to process azalea are:

1. 1. Manure. It cannot be used fresh, it must be diluted. To 1 part of the liquid, add 15 parts of manure, mix thoroughly. After that, it is necessary to wait a few days until microbiological processes take place in the mixture. At this time, air bubbles will appear on the surface of the future fertilizer.
2. 2. Slurry. There are no exact proportions. During the preparation of the composition, it is necessary to focus on the shade of the liquid. The suspension should acquire a light brownish color.
3. 3. Semi-rotted manure. Such a composition should not be diluted in water. In the spring, it is simply distributed over the surface of the earth around the bush. The layer thickness must be at least 5 cm.
4. 4. Slurry and superphosphate. The composition includes both organic and mineral fertilizer. The combination of substances is great for azalea. Thanks to him, the concentration of phosphorus in the soil increases, which is required for the full development of the shrub. 4 kg of superphosphate is added to 100 liters of slurry.

When using slurry, it is necessary to monitor the level of soil acidity. If the color of the foliage begins to change (evergreen shrubs can shed their foliage), then urgent action is required to apply acidic fertilizers. As for the manure itself, bird, cow, pig, and horse droppings can be used for fertilizer.

Among organic fertilizers, horn waste is the most valuable. This applies to chips and flour. They contain large amounts of phosphorus and nitrogen. The decomposition period of these products is quite long, so that the amount of formulations applied will be minimal.

Azaleas can be fertilized with vinegar. This will be needed if ordinary water from a well is used to water the bushes. It needs to be softened up a bit. This is what vinegar is used for. It will take only 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of liquid. Vinegar can be substituted citric acid. In this case, 4 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water. Sometimes shrubs are treated with urea.

Growth and flowering stimulants

Many preparations have been developed that are used to stimulate the growth and flowering of azalea. The most effective of them are:

1. 1. Zircon. Helps the shrub to adapt faster, stimulates the beginning of flowering, promotes the growth of the root system. Sold in ampoules. Add 2 drops of liquid to a watering can with water for irrigation. An overdose should not be allowed. Zircon is also used for spraying azaleas. The procedure is carried out once every 4 days.
2. 2. Appin. This is an anti-session remedy that is perfect for rhododendron. Its difference from Zircon is that the drug is used only for spraying, and once every 2 weeks. If you use the remedy more often, then this will not give any accelerated effect. It is considered no less useful than the previous substance. Sold in ampoules that can not be kept in the light. Spraying an azalea during flowering is prohibited.
3. 3. HB-101. A popular remedy that helps azaleas survive any stress. The advantage is the economy of the product. Only 1 drop of the substance is added to the watering can. It is allowed to use both for watering and for irrigation.
4. 4. Ecogel-antistress. Available in bottles. Suitable for both watering and spraying through a spray bottle. It is considered more effective than Epin.
5. 5. Ferovit. This azalea food contains iron chelate. Usually used when chlorosis develops on a shrub. Helps to increase green mass, improves appearance. Used for both watering and spraying. The latter is considered more efficient.
6. 6. Emerald. It is usually used when azalea leaves turn brown, faded. Helps to increase green mass.
7. 7. Fitosporin-M. Prevents root rot various diseases. You will need 10 drops of the product per cup of water.

Feeding rhododendron shrubs is necessary step plant care. It is especially needed in the spring after the snow melts. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers. They stimulate the growth of green mass, accelerate the growth of the bush. Top dressing has a beneficial effect on flowering.